frankbth

Hi, so I was rebuilding a ej22e h4 engine from a 1993 Subaru legacy non turbo, I purchased 0.20 pistons and send the block to the shop and they send me back this photo, the cylinder wall still needs to be bored a little more and then brushed, what are my options? This cylinder is useless or this Will dissapear after brushing? Or this is coming from inside corrosion from the water holes inside the block, can this cylinder be sleeved? Will it affect the rest? I'm very disappointed after waited for 4 months the part since I got a lot of troubles with fedex. Thanks in advance

This is the first time I used this forum and this will be the last time. Moved to another place, found nice people. You should go to a church or something. I can see evil in your writing. Bye

First I don't get your 'Visa' message I currently live in south America, here we don't have 'visa' we pay in cash, also all the pieces mentioned above were payed in cash (made with hard work) as I work six days per week). Also like I told you I will not pay 2x the price of the car for just a simple piece of electronic. I hope someone can guide me In the correct way of how to proceed with the car. And not to try of sell me a custom ecu of 1095$.

I did change the timing belt, water pump, alternator belt, thermostat, oil pump seals, empty the fuel tank added 10 gallon of new fuel still clouds of black smoke and fouling the spark in 2-3 minutes. Also I have noticed too is the manual switch (the button for change from auto to manual mode) for the transmission all those connectors have Been 'cutted' and there is just a black and blue cables connected directly, Also the Eco modded button on the drive mode selector it does nothing like if it's unplugged, also if I plug the green and black connector to activate test mode to see store codes, it just power on and off the fuel pump and the fans but no check engine light or nothing Bad ECU? Also sometimes when driving the car stalls suddenly And I need to start it again. When the battery has low charge (still it should start the car 5 times at least) the car just crank and crank but no start, but if I use a battery with good charge it just start in one second. Also when the car gets hot (operating temperature) and you switch off, you need to wait to cool because it cranks but no start

Thanks but I cannot afford an 1599$ ECU the car cost me just 500$, Any other options? Where I can find used ECU's or something? This is my first Subaru. I don't know what else to do

Thanks for response, All the things replaced come from OEM dealers that car was parked for almost 7 years, that's why I changed a lot of stuff, also if its bad ECU and all those ECU's are 30years old, what I should do? Put a carburetor on it? No joking, I have seen a lot o vídeos of Ej22e first gen with carburetors, but I'm a little bit confused, can I just disconnect the injectors (so they cannot get ground to shoot fuel) and put a carburetor on the intake manifold (where the big tube of the MAF sensor is) and the ECU will take care of the spark with the camshaft/crankshaft sensors? Or I need to get a distributor and etc?

But according to others tutorials when timing marks alings with pulleys mark, it should be quite easy to move all the gears, also is normal to have 2 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves open on the driver side cam, when timing mark is aligned?

Hello this is my first post in this forum I hope someone can help me! Im going crazy. I purchased an used Subaru legacy 1993 2.2L (Ej22e) 4 cylinder, 130bhp, 4X2, automátic transmission. It has 120k miles and it throws a lot of black smoke (unburnt fuel) is fouling the sparks in less than 2 minutes making it stall and no start until you clean the spark plugs again. So I replaced, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, maf sensor, O2 sensor, temperature sensor, spark plugs, wires, TPS, and almost everything related with (air and fuel). But the problem is the same giants clouds of black smoke, timing is correct, the car start with just one second turning the key (with clean spark plugs), almost every sensor checked with multimeter. Also cleaned the injectors with ultrasound. So i was like ok time to open the motor, I just open both cylinder heads. And I found this weird thing.. If you line up the right Cam with the timing mark, four valves remain open, and it should be closed if I'm not wrong.. So it is very hard to put the cam pulley in the timing mark because the valves interfere, I was reading a lot and it should be very easy to move when the pulley mark and the timing mark are the same, so... Rocket and lifter's checked all 16 work pproperly, so maybe the last owner used a wrong camshaft? It seems to open and close valves in different times that it should