azdave

I had a similar issue on my EA82 rebuild. With the two pump choices I had, the pump bodies, pulleys and pumps shafts are all the same. The only variance is how deep the pulley is pressed onto the shaft. Once I knew that, I just ordered any EA82 water pump and then pulled or pressed the pulley to the correct height required so the belts lined up. No worries about which pump to order as parts get harder to find but you do need to have the ability to change the installed height if you guess wrong on the long or short choice.

Other than the battery tray rust, it looks pretty solid. Good luck with the cut!

That is probably glass fiber reinforced Nylon and I've had fairly good success carefully fitting a short piece of K&S brass tubing inside a broken connection like that to add some mechanical strength and then carefully coating the outside with a layer of JB Weld. You can use tiny amounts of CA glue to hold things in position first and then epoxy smoothed over the top. Not sure if you have enough material there to work with.

You might luck out and find and easy repair but all too often, the plastic rollers or the motor bushings/bearings are shot or the brushes or commutators in the motors are not salvageable. So much stuff these days is only made to last just past the warranty period and was never intended to be serviceable. There would not be a thriving aftermarket for these replacement units if the originals lasted longer or were relatively easy for a mechanic to fix without a full replacement needed.

car-parts.com has them for $42 They fail so often there is a thriving aftermarket supply for them plus many Youtube videos with hundreds of thousands of views.

Sure. I'm cutting dozens of my parts at a time in several variations but you can make them by hand. I often use sharpened brass hobby tubing if a hole punch set is not around.

I would simply top off the oil at every other tank fill rather than risk all that can go wrong having someone swap in another block. Plenty of things can go wrong after an engine swap on a used car and then the blame game begins. I agree with thicker oil as well.

Silicone is a no-go for gasoline applications. The best material I have found is Nitrile rubber sheets (aka Buna-N, NBR, etc.) and it is approved for gasoline and many other oils and fuels. I laser cut it to make fuel pump diaphragms for mechanical fuel pumps in my older classic cars. You can get plain sheets or Nylon cloth infused sheets if you need extra strength. I've bought from ebay, McMaster-Carr, Amazon and Grainger in the past. Plain Nitrile should be fine for your fuel tank sender gasket.

The whole need for ZDDP thing is highly over exaggerated. Unless you are running high pressure valve springs and a radical cam, you'll have no issues with about any oil you throw in an old flat tappet engine. Pick an oil viscosity based on your climate and go drive . I have 7 vehicles with flat tappets including an 87 DL (247K miles) , 87 B2000 (302K) and five 65 Corvairs (all over 150K). I've owned most for over 25 years and pay little attention to anything but viscosity. I run 10W-30 in the mild winters here and 10W-40 in the hot summers. I run 50W in the Corvairs that only get driven in the summer.

I have a vehicle that for years would trip the overfill shutoff at the gas pump for unknown reasons. I found out that if I turn the filler handle upside down, I can pump at nearly full speed without tripping the shutoff. Not sure if that will work for you temporarily until you find out the issue.

Almost a week exactly. Same thing on his other post.

My engine is SPFI so roughly 27 PSI fuel pressure is typical for me. You'll probably be fine as long as the tapped hole (plastic?) doesn't crack where the plug is threaded in.

You certainly don't need the damper so if you can plug it and go, then you've saved the hassle of a pump swap.

My FI 87 DL had a pressure damper at the output of the pump that looks much like the ones under the hood. It was leaking out the relief hole so I plugged that with a small screw which also disabled the damper affect. The pump died entirely maybe 4 months later and I installed a generic pump with no damper. It been running like that for over 4000 miles. https://photos.app.goo.gl/K7WV32BMyWhANLZX7

People seem to do the RHD cars around here just for the "look at me" factor at car shows. It's not unusual to see several a night at shows I visit. The owners tend to be the ones reving their engines way too much so people might look at them and marvel at the steering wheel location.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1995-subaru-impreza-gravel-express-2/

Agree. I assumed it might be a part that had mounting features that needed replicated for originality or some better function required than a generic hardware store Tee provides. When you own a 3D printer, all the world looks like a .stl file.

Opportunity for someone with a 3D printer?

I love these adventures and the off-road repair success stories. Thanks for tanking the time to post them up.

I was encouraged to do a swap when I first got my 87 DL with a bad engine. I've had 6 engine swapped cars in my life and still working on the 7th. The fun of doing a swap dies a little each time so I'm happy to not take on a 8th as long as I can reasonably keep the EA82 running. After putting a 7.5L engine in the back seat of a 2200# car, swapping more power into my DL wagon would not be anything as exciting by comparison. I'm still working on swapping a WRX engine into a 58-year old classic that on its best day had 100 HP at the wheels. That might be the last engine swap I have in me.

Welcome! I had a similar thought of doing head work while in the car but choose to pull the engine and do a major clean-up and reseal as much as I reasonably could. I bought my 87 DL wagon SPFI 5-speed in running condition but with a bad head gasket on #3 at 250,000 miles. I didn't spilt the engine case because I had good oil pressure and no oil leaks that required going any deeper. In the end, I was glad I took the time to pull the engine and fix lot of other details. The previous owner was driving it with a bad head gasket and constantly refilling the radiator with plain water. he left it parked that way for weeks so it had some corrosion on the #3 cylinder wall of course but I wasn't interested in fixing that at the time. It's not perfect but only I would notice. In a leak-down test, I measured 3% leakdown on all the cylinder except #3 which reads 8%. I don't notice that performance-wise unless the idle is set a little low and then I feel a slight shake. At normal idle settings, it smooths out. I still have to pass emissions tests where I live so all those hard baked vacuum hoses had to be replaced and remain functional. I'm at around 5000 miles and 1 year later since the engine work and so far, no issues. I'm really careful to not let it overheat, which I think is what happened with the previous owner.

Thanks for the lead!

In a similar situation, I have installed a new evaporator temp sensor by simply cutting a small access hole in the case, placing the device between the fins and then patching the hole. I did not risk separating the often brittle plastic case in fear of doing more harm than good. I also left the old thermistor in place and just clipped the leads. I've done all of my own A/C work for the better part of 30 years and for more than 20 years, I ran propane/butane gas in all my R12 vehicles. About 5 years ago, I began changing everything over to R152a (Dust Off cans propellant) as the need arose. I run 152 in my 1965 Corvair, an 87 B2000 and my 87 DL wagon. Soon, my 2003 WRX will change from 143 to 152 after a hose failure last Saturday. There are plenty of tutorials online about using 152 but it is a DIY solution. Don't expect a professional shop to mess with that.

A used heater core or is someone selling remanufactured cores that drop in? I have found nothing new in the US and don't want to install a used one with a plastic end tank to fail again. I'm waiting until summer heat is over to tear into my dash to replace mine. I plan to mod one of several all-metal core candidates I have scavenged from junk yards.

Be careful with aftermarket radiators (is there anything else these days). On the one I bought for my 87 DL, I found the inner filler neck sealing surface was not at the correct depth for the caps we use. It was too shallow but the radiator cap fit and I didn't even notice the issue at first. The over-pressure relief spring was being compressed too tight so no fluid could expand into the overflow tank. This was not a problem while there was still some excess air in the system from the refill but once the air was burped the trouble started. Coolant would properly be sucked from the overflow bottle when the car cooled off at night, but no fluid could expand out when I drove. This worked for almost a week with no overheating or leaks. Eventually, all of the air is burped from the system which is a good thing up until the antifreeze needs to expand ever so slightly but has no place to go. I started seeing antifreeze leaks in several places, all while the engine was running well within normal temps. To prove I was right that the shallow filler neck depth was the issue, I installed a pressure gauge on a section of the heater hose and before the engine was anywhere near operating temps I was already seeing pressures well above 25 PSI. Sadly, I did not catch this soon enough and it cracked the plastic heater core case and also swelled up several hoses and caused the new radiator to leak at the tanks seals. Moral of the story is to be sure you have the correct radiator cap and test it. I bought at least 5 caps and also tried every cap they had at both NAPA and Autozone. Not one of them fit correctly. I have a lathe and ended up making my own adapter. I could not send the radiator back because I picked it up long ago but did not install it until much later. This repair was done in April and now that we are hitting 110F here in Phoenix and I'm running the A/C full time, I have no leaks. The flow in and out of the overflow bottle is as expected and I rarely see anything close to 13 PSI on that temporary pressure gauge. Highest coolant temps I've hit are 205-208F. No issues at all now.