billrigsby
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Everything posted by billrigsby
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Yep it does, once I loosen the nut up everything is normal no weird noise or anything, I don't know how many rear wheel bearings I've done on Subarus and I have never encountered this before.
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Thanks, I have the pics, everything seems OK Seems both the axle (inner) and wheel hub (outter) should be riding on the bearing, Compression of the two should not effect anything. Unless There is a problem with the bearing?
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Last year I changed the rear wheel bearing on the left side, Today, Like last year I picked up the hub with new bearings pressed in and re-assembled the parts. When I torque down the axle nut it freezes up the driveline. I removed the left side tire and drum and both look identical, meaning I do not see any larger or smaller gaps in the assembly. Both axles slide in and out of the hub freely with nuts removed, I am stumped? And YES I did remove the plastic spacer from the new bearing! Any thoughts before I do another tear down? Bill
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Does any one know of a source for the plastic clips that hold the far ends down on a factory bug deflector? This is on a 99 Impreza, but I am sure most 90-2000's have the same deflector. With out these the ends flap in the wind making this unbearable noise. Thanks, Bill
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So I had a nice trip home from Pueblo CO to Florissant, But when I started my car in Pueblo, the ignition switch seemed gummed up. real hard to turn, but started OK. Now I can not turn the car Off ! ? I disconnected the power to the coil and the battery, OK, its off. Reconnected it and it starts and runs fine but can not turn key to off position? Any idea if this is a key or switch problem, or is it one unit? 99 Impreza, 2.2L Thanks, Bill
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I did think about the freezing trick, I'll give that a try before I tear everything off again but its only 6 volts or so to get the whole assembly off. she's been in the garage about 3 months already so what's another few days or so its my winter car.
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okay I see what you're saying but with the assembly on the car, the drive shaft is in the way of using the bolts / socket scenario. I guess I should've put this together before putting the assembly back on the car. I'll just pull the assembly of the car again it's quick and easy. during disassembly I pulled the hub out first to get at the brake backing plate because I thoughtI could get the part that holds the bearing out, but that lower lateral bolt was frozen solid.
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I'm not sure we're talking the same item maybe I used the wrong terminology I'm talking the part that the drum and wheel go over where the lug nuts go. I do not see any way to pull that on using long bolts and sockets.
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So I am finally getting around to completing this, just took off everything as an assembly. I am to the point of putting the hub back in and it is tight, I know it was tough getting off. Had to use a large puller but just what kind of force should be required to press on? I am about ready to get out the air hammer! But before I do that and go too far? any advice is appreciated.
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Good idea to hold the bushing, No it should just slide out once the nut is off.
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Liquid Wrench a couple times a day, I have not given up getting it out. Its my winter car so it can sit a while. You have the bolts and bushings? Cost?
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It actually is a CO car bought used at Hueberger (sp) in 2000 with 40K, now it is at 247K and FINALLY needs bearings. I have thought about converting to disc, right now just need to repair ($$$). Seems you would something to balance the brakes? An aftermarket brake proportioner?
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I am doing rear wheel bearings on a 99 Impreza 2.2, drum brakes. I am having a heck of a time with the Lateral Link Bolt. (drawing attached) It seems to be rusted to the bushing collar and will not budge. With a breaker bar and a cheater, it will rotate, hard then the bushings "give-way" and it pops. Basicly the bolt, collar and bushings are all rotating in the rear housing. Any ideas? At this point, short of burning out the bushings and cutting the bolt at both ends, I am stuck. Even if burn the bushings out, I do not think the collars will slide through the rear housing? I have never had this apart before. Thanks, Bill
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I agree, TENSIONER AND THREE PULLEYS! Years ago I was not so wise and skipped those, Car ended up stopped on I70 with ruined valves, 3 miles from DIA, and tickets to New Orleans! Never will skimp again!
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My Ex-Wife has 2 92 SVXs, one wrecked one not. the one not has suddenly no reverse. She wants me to swap trannies, before I do that, is there any electronics to check for no reverse? The linkage seem to be operating properly. Bill
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Got this code, I checked all the lines for cracks/disconnetcs/plugs Checked that the Drain Valve was operating I have not got the code again but still whenI fuel up car starts a terribile missing and as soon as fueling is complete runs fine. It is worse the warmer it is, if it is real warm car dies and is tuff to restart. I am stumped, any suggestions? 99 2.2l impreza
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I was wondering if anyone has a copy of the install disk for the Mitchell On-Demand Repair manuals. I had a system crash and can not locate the original disc, I still have the data discs for the SVX and My Windstar Van but without the parent program installed their useless? Bill
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I was wondering if anyone has a copy of the install disk for the Mitchell On-Demand Repair manuals. I had a system crash and can not locate the original disc, I still have the data discs for the SVX and My Windstar Van but without the parent program installed their useless? Bill
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Turns out it is the tensioner, the belt was so loose that it was slapping around as it turned, glad it did not skip a tooth or more. I re-did the tensioner and it was fine for a bit, then the same thing, seems the tensioner is not pivoting on the main mounting nut but is rigid and when the belt gets going, adds tension. This in turn pulls up on the tensioner, but being rigid and not pivoting, does not add tension in the downward direction. Seems this E Bay kit was the problem. I am going to get a OEM one and that should fix the problem. I hope the pulleys are not crap like the tensioner, or "another head job"! Bill
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OK, MMO makes more sense, this wekend i'll pull out the stethoscope and pop the covers and do some hunting. If it is the tensioner may be an obvious and visual thumping. I just Hope she don't skip a tooth in the meantime if it is the tensioner.
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OH, hydraulic lifters, don't think so, not in this one. Just a cam and valve springs! So what is the MMM? and... That brings me back to the tensioner possibility? Bill
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OK I'll bite what is MMM, I use the regular in the subie, Did not think 120K was HIGH, "for it" Should I go with the high mileage mix?
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I hope I can find a similar problem, and not a lifter. A lifter means a head job again, right? Do you mean a stuck lifter? Bill
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Oil was changed at same time as the repair, less than 1K miles. Puralator Pure 1 and Castrol GTX. Bill
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Some of you may remember I had a pulley sieze and crash a few valves on my 99 2.2 Impreza. I installed a new belt, all new pulleys/tensioner (from EBay) and had the heads done. All was good, until yesterday, When it got cold in the AM (38 deg). Now I have a thumping or loud ticking but only until things warm up. My first thought was the oil filled tensioner, any one had any problems with the E Bay kits? Won't have tim to tear into it until the weekend, meanwhile my wife has it up in Denver for the week. Any thoughts :-\ Bill
