ShakotanBoogie

These have been SOLD, thank you!

Yes. Was offered $100 shipped by the previous poster but he has been unable to get the funds together as of yet.

The information is on this board if you search for it. Circle track rear springs can be used with sleeves in the front; going 5-lug opens up some Impreza options too.

YOU ARE A HERO GLOYALE! Thank you!

Here are some pics of what we are working with, FWIW. Basically, an absolute codswalloping mess. To clarify/reiterate: this is an EARLY 1987 XT turbo with the flapper MAF and 3-wire TPS that has had the spider manifold, VF11, T-bird intercooler, Volvo BOV (now replaced with a simpler Bosch unit leftover from my Saab 9000) and TWE up-pipe slapped on in rapid succession by previous owners who seemed not to have a full understanding of what they were doing. The vacuum routing is (clearly) a nightmare, charcoal canister was thrown away by a previous owner and purge control runs to nothing, and many lines are either capped, looped or run in a nonsensical fashion.

It currently has a 3-wire TPS modified to function with the spider intake TB as shown in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73316-ea82t-4-plug-computer-id/?p=604816

Fox pretty much hit the nail on the head. I have built a handful of modified turbo Saabs and Audis in my years without issue but Trionic and CIS are a much different animal than the vacuum-driven nightmare on this XT. The car drives (and smells) as if it is running rich under boost but the EGTs would seem to indicate a lean condition. Boost is currently turned down to 6psi to prevent severe damage until the problem is figured out. When I first got the car I spent weeks replacing oil-soaked boost hoses and vacuum lines which has made the car start and run BETTER, but still not CORRECTLY. I replaced all vacuum components as they were originally run, which is now known to be incorrect. The car is slower than a regular carb EA82 at this point let alone the EA82Ts I have driven in my time. With a vacuum diagram from a proper turbo spider EA82 and the diagram we already have we should at least be able to create a similar vacuum circuit in order to make the car run and drive in a functional fashion. Yes I know EA82Ts suck but this car has history, let alone one of the hyper-rare TWE up pipes so I would at least like to have the pleasure of blowing a rod out of the block with it running correctly and a smile on my face.

I have considered doing the same but unfortunately I'm between jobs and nobody wants to buy any of my parts, so it's hard to justify the $80 right now. I did message Gloyale after finding the other thread, hopefully he can come through!

So, I am currently in possession of a heavily modified 1987 XT turbo. The car has been epically messed with by its previous owners; despite being an early 1987 with the flapper-style MAF it has been converted to a "spider" intake manifold and the thing is an absolute vacuum NIGHTMARE. Someone deleted the charcoal canister at some point, among other "changes", and the thing drives like absolute crap - it always feels like it's bogging down and doesn't feel right building boost despite the VF11, TWE up pipe, intercooler, etc. Many vacuum lines have been capped, looped, and other nonsense that surely isn't helping. The TPS has also been flipped to fit the spider manifold as described in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73316-ea82t-4-plug-computer-id/?p=604816 This weekend I am going to go back to the workshop with a timing light and go through a few other checks, but I could REALLY use a pic of the vacuum diagram for a turbo car with a spider manifold to compare to my original diagram. Can anyone help with such a thing?

These have been SOLD, thank you! These have been floating around my garage for YEARS (despite never owning an EA71, weirdly). They are BRAND NEW IN BOX EA71 pistons with wrist pins and rings. I have absolutely no clue what they are worth, but I would like to see them go to a good home. Otherwise, they will go up on eBay for the vultures. Make me a fair offer and I can ship them off no problem.

You can really get down there. Technically you don't even need coilovers in the rear, any 2.5" diameter circle track spring at about 8" will get you tucked just right on the stock shocks. Flipping the rear mount with the BFH clearance method gets you an inch or so while retaining your travel so that is worth doing...I am going to run GC Impreza front lowering springs and generic rears on my XT. Should have it ready soon (wheel bearings coming first). There is always the old thread for pics... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/66334-any-one-have-any-pictures-of-lowered-ea82s

Hey all, I'm working on getting my 1987 XT turbo back in proper working condition. The car has the flapper style MAF but a spider manifold was retrofitted by a previous owner, so there are all kinds of wiring oddities I am still trying to sort out as I get it closer to running properly. It was pointed out to me that the knock sensor is currently disconnected; I looked for a pigtail to plug into it but couldn't find one. I did, however, find two broken wires coming out of the harness that crosses over the block...I checked my spare EA82T manifold as well as my ER27 and it looked like the knock sensor plug was a single-wire setup. So, does anyone know what those two wires might be for, and if they are not the knock sensor plug I am looking for, where would I find it on the harness? I haven't been able to find anything. Pics below for clarification. and the plug that appears correct on my spare manifold...

Sounds like you are on the right path, though these cars are LOUD with a straight pipe, and a decent modern performance muffler will not impede flow. I wouldn't worry about the shift knob for now. Also, the open filter may actually be less efficient without an effective heat shield, the stock intake box is not restrictive with a good filter. As long as your seat mounts are solid, you should have no problem with tech. Occasionally you will get a real picky inspector, but my experience was at Road America, which might be a bit different... Make sure you get a decent SA2010 helmet, I really like my HJC AR10II. I am more of a track guy and have run BMWs and RX7s at various events in the past, but did a rallycross in a 2.5RS once. Good times. Most of all, don't stress out trying to post FTD, just have fun! The Grassroots Motorsports forum is a good place to be for amateur racers and there are a lot of PacNW guys on there, worth checking out, great resource.

Looking to order some touch up paint for my 1987 XT. The build plate in the door jamb is there, but the one under the hood is missing! So, I have no idea what colors my car is. Here's a pic. Going from the choices I have I THINK it may be Lake Blue Metallic on Moon Silver Metallic...but at $25/can I'd hate to get it wrong! Here are my color choices: http://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_paint/Subaru/1987-Subaru-XT-Coupe.html

Flipping the top mount on the rear struts will give you an extra 1" but you will need to do some hammering in the wheel well for clearance. Otherwise just run shorter springs. Circle track universal springs, 8" tall 2.5" diameter, 200-250lb or so will give you good tuck and slip right on your OE shocks with no mods.

I was looking up some parts on RockAuto for my 1987 XT w/five lug, planning to mess with a few setups for lowering, and saw that FWD XT6 struts are on closeout! Confusingly one side is $3 while the other is $17, but $20 for a pair of struts with shipping at $10 or so is a hard deal to beat! These are probably the last FWD XT6 struts still for sale in America, if anyone else is looking, I'd order now! No affiliation with RockAuto in any way, just sharing a deal!

According to Huck, it can be done:

The two-bolt mount plate at the top of the shock that contains the spring. I have read in many places that it can be flipped with minor modification to drop 1" or so, and I see how it would be done.

The entire dash harness is different, as far as I have seen.

So I am getting ready to tackle lowering my 1987 XT turbo. This car already has a full five lug swap with normal struts and came with the infamous Civic coilover sleeves. Long story short: the Civic sleeves ride like rump roast. I'm not trying to go ridiculously low, and I don't like these cheap coilovers anyway, so I am putting together a plan to lower the car properly on good old regular springs and shocks. Yay! Now, I intend to start by flipping the tophats on the rear shocks to get an inch or so; then I will slap some roundy-round universal springs on there. According to member 2K4 STI in the infamous lowering pic thread, 2.5" ID springs with an 8" free length are perfect to replace the stock rear springs and get a nice drop. He said 250lb springs were too harsh, so I intend to try 200lb or maybe even 175lb. For the fronts, I've managed to find a pair of GD Impreza Tein S-Tech lowering springs. If I am not mistaken, these should fit right on my XT6 front struts without modification. These are 252lb springs, slightly on the stiff side but a damn sight better than the coilovers. If this all goes together as planned I should have a pretty decent lower-than-stock setup that doesn't ride like complete rump roast! Does anyone have any commentary to add, or have I missed anything?

Could you please re-up those photos? I am about to convert my own digital cluster to LEDs and the photos may be a big help. Also, does anyone know what bulbs are required for the digital cluster?

Yep, I'm the new XT owner. I intend to build it properly over the course of the next few months, starting with making it run right...

Had you driven the car before replacing the timing belt as to know what to compare to? To what extent did you take apart the front of the engine, or what condition was it in when you acquired it?

Leave the lower hose connected to the radiator and disconnected from the water pump, and leave the upper hose attached to the thermostat and disconnect it from the radiator. When you install the replacement radiator, mount the lower hose to the radiator before installing it. The upper and lower hoses could be the same part number for both

With an a/t, you can do it by placing a fuse in the socket under the hood, disengaging the rear-drive clutches. you can do this for a short distance, but in any case all 4 wheels up is the best way. You can go 4 wheels down with a manual transmission with a tow bar. I have seen a 5mt awd towed 2 up on a tow truck, and the awd still worked. Either this car had an open diff, or the vlsd was burned out. This was a 93 legacy in your case removing the driveshaft is recommended for a tow dolly.