ShakotanBoogie

Thing is, convertibles were all N/A (unless he did a swap). And the non-turbo 13b's are actually pretty bulletproof, if hokey. I'm guessing a fuel line somewhere went and started spewing.

Neat swap and good execution, but my god does that car look terrible... As a current owner of a rotary car (83 Mazda RX7) and a fan of the engine in general, I guess I'll clear a few things up. 1. The RX8 has a 13b-derived engine, but with a different rotor design and relocated exhaust ports. The official engine code is 13B-MSP; it's 1.3L. 2. As a proponent of the rotary, I'll admit that putting one in a Subaru RX is a slightly silly swap. They work great in old British roadsters and the like because they are very light and the engine's lack of torque doesn't hurt them too badly. The 4WD Scoobs are just too heavy and rely too much on torque to make use of the rotary. Now, in a Subaru 360... 3. daeron...what the HELL did your bro do to get it to catch fire?

The Subaru Heaven folks are pretty tempermental; they keep the place rather private since last year they let some punks in who smashed the p*ss out of a bunch of cars. [Miles] Fox and I are welcome there; I guess Fox went by once just to bullsh*t and got in with them that way. Now that he lives in Madison, we will be there extremely frequently...

He said 175k miles.

FWIW, I've heard good things from some guys I know on the primary car forum I visit (http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com). I also ordered some stuff for my old Supra from there - nothing major but I got what I ordered.

Outback springs and struts should bolt right up to a bone-stock '95 Legacy, right? Even if the lift is minimal, it's something.

The problem is that the stock key is so worn down that it wouldn't work too well to have a copy made. By "OEM key set" I mean to get some brand new keys through my VIN no. or something.

I only got one key with my Legacy. And it's REALLY worn down (I have to fight with it to get it out after driving). Is there a way to get an OEM key set for my car?

Noted. Where is this vacuum pipe?

Finally finished the clutch on my '95 Legacy L Outback wagon that I purchased for $450. Running full synthetic oil and with a good coolant flush, there's no lifter noise or anything and it seems to be running great. EXCEPT. 1. The tranny seems floppy. The stick (manual) likes to move around when you accelerate and decelerate. Tranny mounts? 2. There's a real prominent whooshing sound coming from the engine bay; it sounds like a stream of compressed air that increases the more you rev it. Fox (Miles Fox) diagnosed it as air rushing through the heater hoses. Eh? 3. The rear struts are blown. When at lower speeds, there's a weird noise coming from the rear of the car that almost sounds like a bad wheel bearing, except it disappears at speed and seems to appear when the car bottoms out going over ************ty pavement. Could the gone rear struts make that noise?

Valve cover gaskets are eeeeeeeeeeeeeasy. Just do them yourself.

I'm looking to install an oil pressure gauge in my '95 Legacy. What all does this involve? Right now the engine is out of the car - do I have to install a sending unit, or can I use the stock sender? Beyond that what do I need to do other than basic wiring and such?

I guess I'll go with a new oil pump then. Question is, is there an install guide somewhere? What all do I have to tear off of the engine to get at it?

My '95 OBW came with a B&M short shifter, uninstalled. I've been trying to put it in, but for the life of me, I can't get the old one to simply "pop out" like all the install guides say it should! I've tried all sorts of things, from pulling it towards the ground on the knob end, and just lifting straight up, and it won't come. Is there some kind of trick?

I'm doing some light refreshing to my '95 OBW's 2.2, since the clutch puked up a spring and the motor had to be pulled to really get at it. The engine had a bit of a tick before I pulled it - which I would assume to be low oil pressure. I was going to just do the oil pump seal along with possibly the rear main seal, but should I worry about a new pump? I'm rather broke and spent $450 for the entire car, so I want to save money anywhere possible, but if it's REALLY worth it I'd probably do it now. FWIW when I pulled the valve covers, all of the bolts on the rocker caps were REALLY loose - one wasn't even snugged down! I torqued them all to 30 ft. lbs to be safe. Could that have caused my knocking?

I already have the engine out and have begun working on it. 260k mile engine; timing belts and water pump are good. We're doing an oil pump and seal on it, clutch disc, and probably a rear main seal. I have two questions. 1. Since the engine is out and everything I've been cleaning it quite a bit. I pulled the valve covers and the bolts underneath (I guess they would be called the rocker cap bolts) felt REALLY loose. What's the proper torque on those? 2. A lot of my gaskets are still pliable and in pretty nice shape. I'm poor as ************ and don't want to replace unneccesarily. Should I just run a bead of silicone over all the ones I plan on reusing (i.e. valve cover gaskets)?

The idea is that Trashwagon 8 (my OBW) is going to be the first Trashwagon set up for road rac'n & autocross'n as opposed to baja'n and mudd'n. Miles Fox is at my disposal (and I at his) so we might indeed give it a shot just for the sake of doing so. I'm in $450 for the OBW and so far nothing for the SVX so there really isn't much holding us back. We can always put the sh*t back together.

Is it now? What are the differences?

Is this a possible swap? I have an SVX lying around in a poor state of cosmetic repair and the tranny is destroyed, plus the title is lost, but it's all mechanically good otherwise. If you want to know "why" the answer is "why not"

Shouldn't '95 still be OBD-1?

Is this as straightforward of a swap as it should be? Searched and didn't find much; we're thinking of dropping an early EJ22T from a Legacy SS into my '95 OBW just for the novelty of it (it is Trashwagon 8 after all). I'm told that as far as the ECU goes you just have to ground a pin and it thinks it's a turbo - this true?

It's generally pretty easy. Pull the panels covering the speakers, unbolt the old ones, bolt the new ones in, and wire them up.

I'm no expert but is the fuel pump getting good voltage?

If yer worried about the plugs just do 'em yourself. Cheap as hell and easy.