silverback

STOLEN 1987 Subaru GL wagon. Silver color, EA82 with 5 speed D/R. Stolen Oct. 17th in North Seattle. WA plate AHR0543. The back seat (bench type) was removed. The image is from before the 'Quick-n-Easy rack' and tent install. The roof top tent is a 2 person TEPUI. Travel cover is black. Large black plastic wind deflector in front of tent. The tent fabric is the silver colored all weather, 4 season canopy. I made a larger rainfly that fits over the stock rainfly. Very unique appearance because the custom rainfly is supported by tent poles with shock cord to make long horizontal poles. The tent had defects from the factory. One problem was the holes for the stock rainfly support rods were drilled horizontally. I had to drill vertical holes so the rod anchor places have 2 sets of holes. The ladder side floor has two 4" diameter port holes with threaded covers in the corners for a heating system. Half the heating system was in the tent. The tubes to convey dry heat are 2" diameter stainless steel bellows type tube (very rare tube ). Vehicles all over Seattle are stolen with shaved keys so homeless persons can have vehicles to commit crime and live in. It is mobile family dwelling. The homeless population is immune to prosecution. They park on the streets and can not be towed. If my vehicle is trashed, I will have EA82 and GL spare parts available: engine, heads, case bolts, lash adjusters, mirrors to list a few. If you see this vehicle in western Washington, please call the Seattle Police Dept. non-emergency line 206 625-5011 with regards to incident # 2020-296202 Thanks ahead of time, Silverback

Is there an 'owner's manual' in the glove box? Manual transmission and differential should be an API Classification GL-5 gear oil. Don't go crazy on expensive oils. GL-5 rated and the temperature ranges in your area will determine the gear oil weight. Perhaps 80--90Wt for your climate. Off the top of my head, I would guess the transmission takes 3.5 quarts and the pumpkin takes 1.7 pints. The transmission is very slow to fill from the dip stick tube. Go very slow, take your time because you do not want to spill from the 'burping' of air at the filler tube. The spillage drips onto the catalytic converter. Your vehicle will have the 'smell of 60's muscle cars'. ( Kids, Google that one ). Nice wagon.

Pitch is 1,75. I do not use a plastic scale for pitch measurements.

Nice project car. What jono said. All of the seals are bad. Dump the oil. What does it look like? Milky? Big problems. Remove the valve covers. What does that area look like? Perhaps that white substance is a salt that precipitated out of the coolant. What was the coolant like as in color? If you really want to make smoke/blow it up: Dump old oil. Put in cheap oil. Prelube engine even though bearings are possibly bad. You will be pushing oil through all of the galleries. Remove spark plugs. Rotate crank as fast as you can. Have assistant stand beside the block to observe liquid coming out plug holes. Option A: 2-stroke oil is formulated to absorb water. Put 2-stroke oil in cylinders in attempt to remove water film. Water around pistons and rusted/frozen rings is bad ju-ju. Rotate the crank, rotate the crank. Rotate, rotate and rotate. Option B: as above, put Marvel Mystery Oil into cylinders. Rotate the crank. Allow Marvel Mystery oil to soak down into ring/land area. Dump the oil from the sump. New oil and filter. Have extra oil changes and filters. Replace intake manifold. If you go for a start-up with coolant, use straight water and fill as much of the engine as you can through the thermostat housing. Assemble thermostat housing and fill radiator. Go for it. The smoke coming out the exhaust pipe is the visual combustion indicator. Good luck

M14 thread with 1,75 pitch. Flange head bolt, flange diameter is 38mm. Under the flange, you have 12mm of unthreaded shank and 20mm of thread. Torque to 66--79 ft/lbs. If you use 'blue' threadlocker, torque to 66 ft/lbs.

You mean like this? Sorry, I have no idea...................

Was the vehicle color identified at night or in daylight? Humans do not have color vision at night ( cones are used for color ). 'Rod' vision at night is in black and white. Possibly the vehicle is 'not dark in color'.

Hello and welcome . Port Townsend is nice. Good wood available from EdenSaw. So....... you have pixie dust and you are 38. Is that an equitable equivalent to Cheech & Chong's Magic Dust? Christmas is just around the corner and the reindeers need alot.

With the #1 piston at TDC, on the compression stroke, the intake and exhaust valves will have clearance to the rocker arms.. Checked with feeler gauges and calibrated fingers.........( grab and wiggle ). Did you set/recheck the valve lash? The distributor rotor points to the #1 spot on the distributor cap. I always advise against starter fluid because it is an explosion in the cylinder, it is dry and flashes off lubricating oil, and is extremely hard on rings. 99.9% of people use too much. TDC is a reference point for checking settings. Change the timing for starting/running. I hope you have a good 'bench'.

#1 cylinder has to be at 'top dead center' with both valves closed. Remove the valve cover. Verify both valves for #1 cylinder are closed and your flywheel timing mark is at '0'. Your distributor may be 180 degrees out. If 180 out, remove distributor clamp bolt, pull up until shaft rotates freely, rotate shaft so rotor lines up with the #1 terminal on cap. You will have to play with the shaft position since it rotates a little when you lower it down. Take your time, this can be frustrating.

Here are a few details to think about. As mentioned previously, the special o-ring at the cam case is to be the Subaru o-ring. During my adventures at PnP and removing cam towers, I am not surprised to find brittle, deformed and crumbling o-rings. Bad idea to use regular o-rings. 'Oil relief tubes' at the cam tower. There are relief valves. The springs get tired. Inspect the springs. Stretch the old ones while you order new 'relief springs' from Subaru. Never use silicone on the cam towers. The infamous cam case o-ring. Don't leave home without them.

1987 4WD

? Exedy #15008 clutch kit? You will receive a clutch alignment tool. It has 24 splines. Some manuals list the input shaft with 25 and that is incorrect. Not sure where you will be crawling around. If you are on soft terrain/gravel. put down a piece of plywood. The wheels of jacks will roll OK on plywood. If you drop a small part, it will be easier to find. Warmer too.

I assume that you have two fans, electric and clutched on the water pump. Very little working room, even with one electric fan. Disconnect hoses, temp switch, overflow tube and two bolts. No bolts on the bottom. pull out radiator. You need room for work and looking. With the radiator gone, just reach through from the front & top to deal with the water pump and timing belt tensioners. Think about the cam seals ( lip and o-ring ) and the crank seal. More reasons to have the radiator out of the way. Throw away the plastic timing belt covers. Your engine will receive more air flowing around the block. You will be able to check the cheap timing belt tensioners that do not last a year. Sorry about the AC. It is a pain to deal with. I have retro AC.........I just roll down the window. Do not attempt to 'change the timing belts outside of the complete tutorial' as you want to do. The procedure is not difficult. Go slow and check, re-check your work.

Viton is the material, not a brand. It tolerates higher temperatures. Viton is not black in color, kind of brownish with these seals. You did not mention the mileage or if the oil pump shaft was worn in the way of groove(s). Find a different vendor.

Seals and gaskets? Did you replace the shaft seal? The shaft seal on a 93 should have been Viton from Subaru. Only use the viton seal. You may be sucking air at the shaft seal.

If the modification seems difficult for you, call Carbs Unlimited, in Kent. They deal with Hitachi carbs. Check their websites first.

What is the color of the choke housing?

The comments about the 'center hole' size of Peugeot rims is related to the steel 504 and 505 rims. Both series bolt on without problems. There are some variations of lug nuts. The concern with the 504 steel rims is a problem installing them onto current tire balancing machines. The center hole has to be enlarged ( match the 505 diameter ) or you have to locate a tire service company that has equipment to balance the 504 rims. Enlarge the hole. If you drive on pavement, alloy rims. If you go off road, steel rims.

A review can be helpful If Subaru engines were laid out transversely, we would be screwed

So you want a hole shot off of the line. Seems that you have a drivetrain problem and not just carburetion. If you have a trike that weighs 640kgs and it was sluggish with a Weber 32/36, then your transmission and rear axle ratios are suspect. Have you tried changing the ring and pinion gears? Are you sure that you want a Weber 38/38? It is a lot of air for a small engine. I looked at the hiclone unit and I can not use it. It is used on petrol engines and I use gas......................sorry, I couldn't hold back on that one. Putting a swirl thingy in front of a turbocharger is really funny. There may be a way for you to experiment with 'swirl' without hacking up your SPFI manifold. There is a company in the US that makes 'swirl torque carb adapters'. Nothing for 2 barrel carbed Subaru's, so you would make your own. There are always glowing test/use reports on these units. In reality, they are said to work very well on some engines, neutral on some and very bad on some installations. The SPFI manifold is a simple device and a 'bolt on ' experimental approach is possible. www.tdperformance.com TransDapt Performance Products. They sell TransDapt carb adapter #2107, which adapts a Weber 32/36 to a carb manifold. Works great. I don't know if it will handle a 38/38 if you go that route. You will make an adapter plate to mount your carb adapter to the SPFI manifold. You have the possibility to experiment with several, grooved #2107, 'bolt on' 'swirl adapters'. Examining the grooves in the 'swirl torque carb adapters' raises several questions for an experimenter like you. How wide? How deep? What direction and does the coriolis effect come into play? Keep us posted. Remember, no wheelies......scares the hell out of the passenger. You may have to install a sissy bar..........................

------- MilesFox Utube ------- What Gloyale said ------- This drawing ------

Do not over tighten the nut that holds the linkage on. The sign of a tight nut is high idle. Replace fuel filter(s) before the Weber goes on.

Not all wiring. The vacuum valve is on the passenger side strut. For electric vacuum pump version, the lower hose goes to the pump. The upper hose goes to the cruise control actuator assembly.

Use the search function and check 'cruise control'. Some diagrams were recently posted for 87 EA82 versions. May help.