silverback

And try; books4cars.com http://www.books4cars.com

Disco, last group

Disco, 3rd group......... More to come.............

Disco...........2nd group.......... More to come,

Disco, I have several groups of drawings & text to post. First group is basic. The cruise control system that will be displayed is the type that uses an electric vacuum pump. More to follow................

Overhead valves or overhead cam? You do not need to make custom manifolds. The intake would be a huge project. Just blank off the EGR ports with small plates. Couple pipe plugs in unused holes. Plug the EGR port in the passenger side head at the #3 cylinder. Remaining vacuum functions from the manifold are: brake booster, PVC, vacuum assist line for the heat/defrost/vent control on the dash. Cap remaining tubes. The '1800 that was just lying around' could be a huge can of worms. You have a 27 year old car with about 70HP at the wheels. Do not go overboard. Find good parts and make it run well. It will last a long time.

LucasP, "the silver slayer"........???? With about 70HP at the wheels, the only thing to get 'slayed' are the bugs on the windshield.

Tman, you will have speedometer error. Easiest way to look at proposed new tire sizes and speedo error is go online to 'discounttire.com' . Across the top of the page are various tabs. Click on "Info Center". The left side of the page has "Tire Information". Go about half way down on the left side and find and click on "Tire calculator". You will be able to see speedo error. Determining your gas mileage will be trial and error.

Malcontent. When you get around to your Subaru, disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the alternator. You will have a lot more working room. Not worth fighting the belts.

This will help. Print 5 copies; 1 to look at, 1 to spill beer on, 3 to slime when you are doing the belts. Also, when you go to install the pump, put 2 dabs, small dabs of sealant on the case split lines.

Wagonist, most of us( West Coast ) throw the covers away. Air flows to the block for better cooling. We can do timing belts in 20 minutes or less. A shop in Seattle will charge more than $500, do bad work with poor parts. We go off road. Lately I have been packing my undercarriage, CAT, etc with snow. Oh, sorry, you are in Australia. Google snow. I worry very little about the belts. It is the cheap bearings in the tensioners spitting the grease out. In conclusion, throw away the covers.

What MilesFox said. The attached image is the stock Subaru oil pump shaft seal. Made of 'Viton'. If you are sucking air, a worn shaft seal may be one of the culprits.

If the radiator cap is left off, the coolant expands and will flow out the filler tube. It is a 13psi system and needs a good cap. How does it react with the radiator cap on? Is there exhaust gas coming out of the expansion/overflow tank? The least expensive tool that I have seen to pressurize a cooiling system was $65 at NAPA. That is an old price for the pump, then you have to buy an adapter for the radiator filler tube. Subaru thermostats have huge pellets. The size of the pellet is everything. If you get that reaction with a 180 degree thermostat, I would throw it away. Do you run 180's for Texas heat? Figure out the power window relay under the seat?

Here is a drawing of the front of an EA82. You can see the alternator/water pump 'V belts'. The outboard timing covers are removed and you can partially see the 'flat, cogged, timing belts'. You have 2........or you used to have 2 and or parts thereof. There are small rubber covers on the inspection holes. One can pry the covers out and peek inside to see if the belts are damaged. I think your belts are gone. Print several copies of the image; one for looking, one for spilling beverages onto, three for getting dirty when you do your own belts. There are several notations on the drawing; 45', timing mark, camshaft sprocket position and flywheel position. You will figure them out in a couple days. If your girlfriend has small hands, she may be able to help you and gain 'timing belt cover removal zen'. Vocabulary required.

When you crank the engine, the rotor in the distributor will rotate. It the timing belt is gone -- no movement. Having zero oil pressure could mean broken timing belt on the passenger side. The belts that you see from the drivers position are for the alternater, water pump and optional AC. They do not have any function for cam shaft driving or the oil pump. The bolts that hold the black plastic covers over the timing belts are a pain. I threw mine away. Most of us do. I think you need a 10mm socket and 3/8 drive ratchet. Working room is tight. A good vocabulary helps (soob mojo). If the timing belts are broken...............what does this mean??????????????????/ It means your girlfriend is off the hook this time.................

You saw the alternator belt(s) move. Insert gong noise here. Remove distributor cap, ground coil high tension lead, observe rotor while cranking. Remove the covers of the timing belts. Oil pressure during cranking??? Zero???

This thread is about a carburetor model. Below is the carb model layout. I am guessing that the charcoal canister is gone. Note that the fuel filter is back by the tank. You may want to change this when convenient since you believe the Weber conversion was a rush job. The filter was probably not changed.

What chompy posted. I use the return line on my Weber. It's purpose is to bleed off excess pressure before the needle-float valve in the carb. Some use the return, some don't. It is a good idea to put a little cover/filter over the vent line. Also, do not smoke when you are working on these lines......................

Remove the distibutor cap and inspect. Look for wear and moisture.

Sounds like a starter motor problem. If you know that the engine rotates, check the oil pressure. If you have a broken timing belt on the passenger side, the oil pump does not rotate. Zero oil pressure on the gauge and the engine cranks over with little resistance. Take off the plastic timing belt covers and lose them. Where did your girlfriend put the oil----exactly????

You have air in the system. Find a steep hill, park and idle to let the thermostat open (keep the hood closed). The radiator cap may be weak. Replace it. Is the radiator from the parts car a single row or double row? Is your coolant the proper mix or did you water it down for the radiator re-fill?

If there was a dog in the back, expect it to hide from you people for at least 3 days. The difficult spots will buff out.

On the drivers side of the transaxle, close to the bell housing, is a label that identifies your equipment. A mirror and flashlight will help. There are several variants. I am going to guess that the label reads "TW75F" blah blah blah. Pay no attention to the blah blah part. You need the first 5 alphanumeric descriptors. Going on-line to Rock Auto, the transaxle section will show a good selection of seals for the different variants. O'reillys has a smaller selection. Do not be in a hurry. You may not find the common seals stocked in your area. Feeling lucky? For an input seal on a "TW75F", National Oil Seal # 222558.

I am going to guess that you are thinking of member "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" who has "The Mighty Bumblebeast". Perhaps you should edit your post and delete 'Justy'. The search function works well for Weber installations.

Good point about 'dry' fuels as in LPG and LNG. Valve lubrication and valve carbon build up are factors to consider. Direct injection engines will carbon up the valves way too early. I have an AMPCO lubricator that drips a metered amount of my fav, Marvel Mystery Oil, into the intake manifold of my Webered EA82. The breathers on the AMPCO unit tend to get soaked with MMO sloshing around from speed bumps. Coxy, you know this: have to have hardened valve seats. Not a problem for most vehicles but is something to keep in mind for older vehicles.