silverback

Perhaps a treatment with Sea Foam will help blow the carbon out.

Does your engine 'diesel' when you shut off the ignition? If not, don't buy the cut-off solenoid. I had to look into my 'S' files ( Subaru, for the Weber drawing ). The idle cut-off solenoid replaces the Primary Idle Jet. It has to be connected to a keyed 12 volt supply. I have a drawing on the Weber 32/36 DGEV / AV. The idle cut-off solenoid, #100, replaces #33, #34 and #35, the primary idle jet, o-ring and Idling jet holder respectively. You may not have a drawing showing/listing part #100. But you can see where it would go to replace the primary idle jet. In summary, don't do it.

What ruparts said: 'double row'. Also use a Subaru thermostat. The pellet is larger than aftermarket units. Check the thermoswitch for your fan.

For video of a timing belt 'job', visit UTube and find 'MilesFox' series on Subaru maintenance. Go slow and double check the steps in your procedure. When timing belts fail, the engine dies and the oil pump is no longer driven by a belt. You had some oil drain out of the filter. Do not use a cheap oil filter. The brand to use is an endless debate on this forum. However, do not use a brand that starts with 'F'. Subaru branded filters if you have access. Some like WIX.

Did you do a compression test?

Starting fluid is the absolute worst substance. How old are your timing belts? Has your gas mileage been slowly getting worse?

Keep in mind that "the white zone is for loading and unloading only......the red zone is for"......very careful application of sealant................

The oil pan is too far away from the block for an oil heater to do much good. You also do not want to 'cook' the oil with a 'hot spot'. Is the GL parked outside or inside? What oil viscosity are you using? Is it possible to use 2 trouble lights, 60 Watt bulbs & metal reflectors, inside the engine compartment while at home? What do you do when you park it at work? Please do not use starting fluid.

You listed a 'new oil pump' as one of the changes. How new, as in new-new or reman???? An old worn oil pump shaft seal/shaft will pass air. A new pump should have the correct seal that is made with 'VITON'. Did you put dabs of sealant on the engine case split lines where the oil pump mounts????? Subaru oil pump shaft seal. Do not accept substitutes. The shaft has to be in good condition. Subaru spring for oil pump. Many postings on the USMB refer to the "3" springs that one needs to help solve HLA noise. This is the first one, at the pump. The three springs are: #15020AA000, oil pump, quantity one #15020AAo11, cam case, quantity two

The oil pipe. Banjo-bolt --->oil pipe-->spring-->valve(plunger) Make sure that the seat for the valve is clean. A pipe cleaner can probe the oil pipe and clean out the crud. Passenger, right side cam tower, a.k.a. cam box, with three important areas. Do not get sealant in these holes as scoobidubie pointed out. Top left red zone is where Subaru "O ring-CMS case # 13089AA010"is placed. It is slightly counterbored for the special metal washer. Red zone at lower left has the brass restriction orifice. I measured the opening to have a diameter of 1,79mm or about 0.070" of an inch. Make sure it is open. A pipe cleaner can be passed through it. Red zone at lower right, oblong, is the hole that has the oil relief valve on the other side. This is the spring for the oil pipe relief valve. 2 are required -- one each cam tower. Some people just stretch the old springs. If the springs are old, weak and compressed, your oil pressure in the engine galleries will be lower than normal/required.

I am going to post a drawing and images of what works on my 87 EA82. I think they will work for you but I am not 100% positive. The drawing is the 'total picture' of the lubrication system.

Anaerobic sealants should not cause any problems. Some of them can tolerate 300 degrees. Find out what your goop can handle at the Loctite website. The orifice that ruparts referenced is small and needs to be probed, blown-out just to be sure. The spring and valve in the oil relief pipe is straightforward. The banjo-bolt covers them. You won't need a valve/plunger. The springs get compressed over time. It is a 'gut call' on how the springs feel when you compress them and the length. The springs come from Subaru. Couple of bucks apiece. I just went through 2 EA82 SPFI heads that someone used a years supply of RTV silicone on. The goop was everywhere. I poked, blew-out, squirted and scraped. Takes hours to get the goop out and verify open pipes, orifices, cam oil passages, ports and open HLA sockets (for supply and drain). Painful. I will find part numbers and show new spring length versus old spring length.

Several times. You would never take a timing belt longer than 4 years (conservative time) if you don't drive it much. Also check the idlers to see if the bearings have lost grease. Not changing them is a gamble. A failing bearing will wobble and or seize up and damage the belt. Spend the money on quality parts so you don't strand yourself.

Is your Weber old? Did you verify a vacuum leak(s) at the throttle shaft bushings by spraying a liquid on them while the engine was idling? Worn bushings can be a source of vacuum leaks and poor idling. Old hoses, intake gaskets, carb gaskets are other areas to check. How about brake booster hose? Distributor vacuum advance hose?

Many good comments here. In addition, since you will be removing the cam towers to check for obstructions, look closely at the oil relief pipes. There are 4 small holes to check for blockages. The relief pipes have an oil relief spring and plunger( valve in the FSM ). Perhaps the springs are old and compressed. Buy new ones for a couple bucks or some people 'stretch' them a little bit. Verify that the plunger/valve slides freely. How many miles? What goop was used for a sealant?

Did you change the thermostat with a genuine Subaru product? The thermostat has a 'jiggle valve' which is a small rod that hangs through a hole in the thermostat mounting flange. It has to be there and move freely. You did not indicate how much coolant that you have been able to add to your system. Did you try to add coolant through the upper radiator hose into the engine?

Here is a link for a troubleshooting guide that may be helpful ( they do not sell the Weber Subaru kits but the guide is helpful ) http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/ There are tabs across the top of the site. "Technical Information" is the tab. Go to "Troubleshooting Guide" and print the PDF.

Where did you buy the Weber and did it come as a 'conversion kit'? I won't ask why you do not have a 'stock' throttle cable. Does your cable jacketing terminate with a metal tube that is threaded and has 2 nuts to adjust the position in the current throttle cable bracket? You do not need to weld anything so that eliminates the 'welding anxiety' factor. A visit to the Carbs Unlimited website will be helpfull. http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm Go to the RedLine parts section. "DGV" section. Look at "DGV/DGEV universal cable linkage". Kits number 99007.116 and 99007.114 . Both kits have #99005.357 'cable anchor swivel stud', which will help if your weird cable needs to be re-terminated. The kits have several cable mounting brackets to choose from. You may have to buy a real Subaru throttle cable. You listed binding as a potential problem. Binding in the cable or at the throttle shaft? Binding at the throttle shaft, and high idle rpm, is usually due to installing the nut on the throttle shaft too tight. I do not have any images of my Weber, on a Trans-Dapt #2107 adapter, on an EA82 intake manifold. The #2107 adapter is 1-3/4" high. I placed my throttle cable bracket on the intake manifold to try to keep the cable low enough to miss the spare tire. Funny, I do not have the spare in the engine compartment any longer. Your results will vary. Buy a linkage kit and take the time to test fit a bracket or 2 before rushing into a final install. Leave yourself a lot of time to handle surprises.

I use a vendor website for tire size comparisons. Go to Discount Tire. There are tabs at the top. Click on "Info Center". About halfway down the column on the left side is "Tire Calculator". Very handy. Enter your stock tire size and whatever you are running currently and you will see the hard data on speedometer/odometer error, difference in wheel rotations, etc.. No one has asked if you blow by everyone else in traffic when your speedometer indicates "60". Does the speedometer seem 'slow'? The choke should be wide open shortly after start up. Has the gas mileage problem been long term or just when the unusual cold weather hit your area?

The machine shop installed valve stem seals when they assembled the head. Using a flashlight, look through the springs and you will see the seals. You have extra--leftover seals. Good luck.

Flip the switch and look for smoke................

You are referring to 'valve stem seals'. The seals are typically sold in packs of 8 ( 8 intake & 8 exhaust . You noticed that the 'exhaust valve stem seals' are larger than the intake. I have to ask if the heads are off of the case and what type of work did you do to the valves/valve seats?<br /><br />Images will help explain your situation.<br /><br />You need a manual and a lot of patience.

Nothing underneath, so mangle away.

Is the cam case o-ring on the forward end of the left head and the firewall end of the right head?

Did you check the rocker cover, bottom side by the distributor? Difficult to see without using a mirror. Your oil pan is very clean and it appears the oil is squirting out above the pan.