silverback

The gaskets that come with the Trans-Dapt #2107 Weber adapter are made of 'cellulose-nitrile'.

Is that color 'moss green' or BRG, British Racing Green?

For the Weber installation, one changes the fuel filter(s) first. Your fuel pressure should be checked. 2---4psi works well and your pump should do that normally. There should have been a 'T' fitting to allow fuel return to tank in the hoses or at the Hitachi. The fitting is to allow excess fuel back to the tank. I used the restrictor fitting for my EA82 and had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up for start up. The fittings from the Hitachi work fine. I also set the float bowl float to conservative settings. If you flood out and or run rich, then you should consider using the fuel return line. What did you hook up to the PCV fitting at the manifold???? There are posts showing hose hook ups on the site. Search 'PCV hose mods'. Member 'Kanury' has good images of an EA82. You will need penetrating oil, propane torch, double nut set-up, vise grips and luck for the seized-in exhaust studs. Double nut the studs. Heat the studs and spray with penetrating oil. Don't crank on the studs. First, just a little back and forth turning(wiggle) to try to help the penetrating oil work in. Repeat. Repeat. It might take a little time but you are trying not to rip the threads out. If the threads on the stud get shreaded, then you are at the 'vise grip' stage. Installing a Heli-Coil is a possibility in these situations. Go easy and try not to apply to much power. Heat-soak, heat-soak etc.. Good luck. Most of us have been laying on the ground, drilling up and installing inserts/Heli-Coils.

The under the hood noise starts after about ten miles. Is this the same time that the electric cooling fan at the radiator turns on? Perhaps the plastic fan blades are rubbing on a foreign object.

I am not following the clattering noise description very well. I don't rate pinging as clattering. Check the alternater pulley to verify that it is not lose. The fan behind the pulley makes alot of noise when they are loose.

Anaerobic thread lockers are not designed to take the heat of an exhaust system. The green colored sleeve locker will set up and hold a stud, but it gets 'cooked'. If I remember correctly, the 'green' loctite is heated up to 600--700 degrees to break it loose for removal. In your heads, the anaerobic threadlockers will cook to a crystallized form that fills the gap between the male and female threads. If you have thread problems then you will have to install thread inserts. I use a ceramic based anti-seize that is good to at least 2,000 degrees.

For tire information, go to the Discount Tire website. They don't have any stores in your area. On their site, there is a tab for 'info center'. General knowledge and interactive areas where you can check tire-rim combo's, diameter changes and speedometer errors. Could be helpful as you burn up a lot of hours in your search for tires.

Are you able to re-install the #2 belt temporarily as a 'hold-back', hold the crank pulley from rotating and loosen the oil pump pulley nut a turn. Take off the #2 belt, remove the nut. Most of us have forgotten to loosen bolts and nuts before removing the belts. Easy to do when you are in a hurry.

'Quick change' types of set-ups for oil draining have been around for years. Whenever I see the thin black trail about half way between the yellow and white lines on the road, I say to myself: "Self, did someone have an oil change incident? Plug loose or one of those valve thingies? I prefer a singular positive seal to my oil pan. Plug. I do not worry about impact or corrosion. I have a skid plate and I remove it for oil changes. Couple extra minutes for removal and re-install. There is no such thing as a 'no-mess' oil change. You always have wiping/cleaning, inspecting and disposal. It is merely a case of small messes versus huge messes.

Nipper has an excellent point about cat failures. Check that out as you can risk burning exhaust valves. Catalytic converters do not fail in the same manner. Mine failed in the catastrophic mode: sustained high speed driving then going onto surface streets with stop and go driving. I may have had a couple stoplights and then 'no power'. Not driveable. Try to check your cat asap. BTW, AKghandi does not have ethanol in the Alaskan gas. He has a higher specific heat. Not fair.

Do you have oil pressure when you crank the engine over? A couple PSI perhaps. Does the engine crank over very fast like there is no compression?

What is the altitude difference between Fort Collins and your location in Oregon? When was the last time that the fuel filter(s) were changed? You bought gas at unfamiliar stations. Did you buy gas from places that start with 'A'?

Do you know the carb designation? For example; 'DCZ328-XXXX'. Manual transmission or auto? Does it have a vacuum dashpot linked to it? Electrical connection? There are several locations to set gaps on the linkages. It is difficult to describe with only text. Chilton manuals are not very good. Subaru FSM is excellent. I have a FSM for 1987. I have no need for the carb section. The cams of '85 and '87 are different. I am guessing the choke activity is very similar. Before tearing anything apart, several areas need to be checked. Is this problem new? Have you recently worked on the carb? How is your gas mileage? Have you checked your timing belts?

Coolant leaking out from the intake manifold gaskets can puddle up and create steam. I have never thought of using a 'James Bond' ( don't touch that lever) smoke effect. I don't believe the tailgaters got too close. For hose insertion onto old steel tubes, I have lubed the inside of the hoses and exterior of the steel tubes with plain, white 'Go-Jo' hand cleaner. Slides right on, water soluable and you can clean your hands right away. Lubing the heater core tubes lessens the chance of damage when you fight the hoses onto them.

Miles Fox has a video on U tube about EA82 timing belt installation. The 'dot' position on the cam sprockets relative to the 'three hash marks' will be understood.

What is the condition and color of the #2 & #4 sparkplugs?

Did you change the timing advance curve of the distributor?

There are several areas to check: What is the condition of the gas tank? What is the age of the gas in the tank? Did you change the fuel filter(s)? Did you check fuel pump output and if so, what is the color of the gas?

Spearmint oil. Mice hate spearmint oil. They will leave and you will not worry about poisoned rodents in your vents/fan. Available as an 'essential oil', it is very concentrated. One drop goes a long ways. Your interior will smell nice. Too much spearmint oil and you will be driving around in Dec. and Jan. with the windows down. Periodically, I dislocate the boot around the shifter and place a few drops on the tranny. The odor will make its way into the interior. Mostly I try to persuade rodents from being under my vehicle, especially in wooded areas. There used to be an aromatic product to place in RVs and other vehicles to keep mice out during storage. Can't remember the name...........cab or cabo--something. Years ago before I found spearmint oil, I had a deer mouse get into my vents while camping at Mt. Baker. I think the Led Zeppelin caused the little furball to bail out.

If you have to drill and tap, use a depth limiter on your drill bit(s) to go only as deep as the original hole. You will be unhappy if you drill too deep.

Would your manual be the small manual that came with the vehicle? Subaru 1987 owner's manual? For Hitachi carbs, 2WD is 20 degrees BTDC & 4WD carbureted is 8 degrees BTDC at specified rpm. Manual transmission is 700 rpm and AT is 800 rpm. Not sure of your background but check timing with vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged. More input: Hitachi or Weber? What do the plugs look like? How long have you had it?

Also, when you adjust the throttle cable, make sure that the choke is 'off'.

I am assuming that you are dealing with a Weber 32/36 DGEV? Electric or manual choke? There should be two brass tubes of different diameters sticking out from the carb. You have the distributor vacuum advance hose on the larger tube. To the left of the disty hose port is the smaller diameter EGR port. It should be plugged with a small screw. How does the engine run without the EGR operating? You might consider not using the EGR.

For tuning information, go to redlineweber.com and the menu on the left side has 'Tech Notes'. Go there and the drop down selection lists 'carb set-up'. Check that. You should find drawings of your carb there also. Verify that your accelerator cable is not too short. The throttle shaft has to return to the stop via the return spring and not be held off of the stop by a 'short cable'.

The images are of the same fitting. Straight through is supply to carb. The smaller tube returns fuel to tank.