silverback

You do not need to remove the intake manifold. I can't see your engine compartment but you need vacuum ports for brake booster, heater fan blower function selector. The unused ports on the manifold casting are sealed off with plastic caps that are available at auto parts supply stores just for this very purpose. Various sizes are available. Those ganged tubes are fastened to the manifold with screws. There are many threads available that deal with weber conversion hell. Please search and don't panic and remove the intake manifold. I am confused about the Weber throttle problem. Did you do this install? If you installed the Hitachi throttle lever/quadrant, you may have over-tightened the throttle shaft nut. There is a lever on the throttle shaft that is called 'Loose Lever'. The spring that runs vertically and hooks into the Loose Lever is called ( you guessed it ) Loose Lever Spring. If the loose lever is trapped from over-tightening, you have idle speed problems. Check for looseness. How did you anchor the original Hitachi return spring??? Patience now to prevent unhappiness

Something like this? I can't remember what this is off of. I think it was a feedback carb. The fitting attaches directly to the carb. The Hitachi that was on my EA 82 had two fittings on the carb. Upper one was for the return line and had a restriction orifice pressed into it. The orifice diameter is 0,7mm. The fitting below the return was supply and was unrestricted. Different carbs had separate ways to deal with back pressure and getting the excess fuel back to tank if that was required.

It is zero dark thirty right now, but I will try to send an image of the 'fitting' tomorrow evening.

The 'T' fitting is supply to the carb and the return to tank. The 'return to tank' should have a restriction orifice/smaller tube diameter. Do not restrict the fuel lines.

Redundant comment dept.: If the Weber has two ports on the front, the driver side is distributor vacuum advance port. It should be a larger diameter than the port on the passenger side. The smaller port, on the passenger side, is 'late vacuum port' for the EGR. Good luck Silverback

The Subaru listings at the junkyards tend to be full of errors. It is difficult to find a 'carbureted' manifold. Carb's Unlimited in Auburn, WA., is a Redline dealer and has jets and jet kits. There is a member who had a manifold that might work for you. I will check. Have patience, you may have to make your own adapter. As for your height question, you will have to measure the height of the old carb with air cleaner housing installed. Measure from the bottom of the gasket/thermo shield to the top of the air cleaner. That number is what your new installation will have to fit into.

I have a GL wagon with 5spd, d/r. I just changed gear oil. I used a conventional oil, API GL-5 rating. I added 0.7 quart of Hilton Hy-per Lube oil additive. ( 0.7 qt. is 20% of the 3.5 qt. capacity of the transmission ). I do not have experience with RedLine oil products. I think about oil seal compatibilty with synthetics. I have used SWEPCO 210 gear oil. That GL wagon got T-boned so I do not have long term info on my personal vehicle use. I have used SWEPCO 210 at work and it is great. Lowers the temperature of whatever gearbox that it is in. The seals last longer. Seals love SWEPCO 210. RedLine is expensive. I would not buy it. Swepco 210 is more, about $70--$80 per gallon and I will buy it next time after I finish some projects on my GL. SWEPCO products are difficult to find. Online, usually at high performance places. Pelicanparts.com. SWEPCO 808 is the best penetrating oil that I have ever used. Makes PB Blaster look like cat wee-wee.

Those of us in the Seattle area have "Stoneway Hardware". They have a broad selection of metric hardware: fine, coarse, small head, heat treated, studs, set screws, nuts (right hand & left hand nuts), stainless and so forth. Last time that I checked, the M8-1.25 bolts (grade 8.8) were available up to 110mm long. It is the biggest little hardware store in Seattle. This is where we save ourselves. The weekends always have European cars and bikes filtering in and out of the parking lot.

This adventure is difficult to follow. You have an EA81 and recently put a Weber on it. Weber 32/36 ?? 32/36 has two ports on the front. You may have been hooking up the distributor vacuum advance to the EGR port on the Weber ( smaller diameter tube on front left ). Use the port on the front right. Cap the EGR port on the carb. The EGR is disabled. You capped the control port of the EGR. ??? You removed the tube that connects the head to the EGR supply port. How did you plug the ports in the head and manifold? Both have to be sealed off. Ultra Grey/silicones are not resistant to gasoline. Use new gaskets everywhere despite what Mr Google says. Sealant helps also. Did you remove the spark plugs to determine if one set of heads is drastically different than the other ( leak on driver side versus passenger side)? Visually inspect tops of pistons for carbon or shiny appearance? Did you spray (WD 40) the head and manifold at the disconnected EGR ports when the engine was running? Rear side of the manifold? Check the 6 manifold bolts to see if they bottomed out. Hopefully, you will be able to re-install carefully and start another troubleshooting series and find happiness.

Your timing belts: age and mileage??

Did the intake manifold bolts have brackets for the air cleaner housing? I can't tell from the images if you have removed the brackets. If you have a Weber in place then I assume the brackets are gone. You don't have intake gaskets and 'no crush'. The intake manifold bolts can bottom out very easily without the stock pieces in place. Check the washers under the bolt heads to verify they are not loose. Spray the 6 bolt heads with WD40. Without gaskets, the 'jethro' approach would be to add washers so that the bolts do not bottom out and you get crush on whatever it is that you have in there until you can make changes.

WD-40 does not burn. They changed the formula. How did you seal the adapter plate for the Weber? Throttle plates wet? Can you pressurize your cooling system? Do your heater controls work?

For the speedometer cable. Reach up under the dash and feel for a loose cable. Sometimes they work loose or the previous owner pulled it out to stop the odometer. If you find grease/oil at the speedo end of the cable, it is wicking up from the transmission. Bad ju-ju.

Welcome to the area. Reality check time. Seems like older Subaru's are being stolen in the north end of Seattle and outlying areas. Mine was prowled. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR TOOL BOXES IN YOUR VEHICLE. You have a time limit for getting Washington plates. Drive slow for awhile -- lots of red light runners. Watch for speed limit and traffic light light cameras --- more are showing up. Huge money makers. Keep an eye out for those who are driving "DWO". OK, serious over. You will like this area. I assume that you are a good snow driver. Not too cold here. If I see you, I will go the opposite direction......( joke ). I will honk.

How many gallons of old, crappy gas are in the tank?

You did not mention if you performed any work on or around the engine before the problem showed up. Check the vacuum lines and caps on the intake manifold for leaks.

I thought that you installed an 'ebay Weber' on that 87 GL?

I followed the images in this thread and I saw the answer to my curiousity on the trunk............ BURNING MAN Burning Man images are not related to 'members rides' but do you have any images that you can post?

A friend of mine had his box truck prowled on the night of the 15th while it was parked in the Phinney Ridge area ( just up the hill from Austin's prowl ). Fremont area is weird. 365 nights a year, people are walking and bicycling around that neighborhood. Austin, spiral out from the crime location and check the side streets -- especially the streets that drop down from 3rd Ave in a westerly direction. Couple thoughts: leave a spare clutch cable lying around in plain sight and put a new, unused head lice comb in the glove box.................. Good luck I will be looking

Rodents dislike spearmint/peppermint oil. The essential oils are concentrated and a few drops into your gear shift hump, or where ever they are entering, may help you out. A few drops, period. I add a few drops to my 5 speed D/R hump when I am camping. Have not had a mouse in years. Vehicle smells good. Essential oils are available at herbal shops. You might try playing ZZ Top and Led Zeppelin -- worked for me on a deer mouse while camping in the Mt. Baker area.

I use DELO 400 LE 15w-40. A conventional oil, it is designed to keep particulates in suspension. Your lifters like that feature. Works well in western Washington. More info is available at the Chevron website.

Jofus, hopefully by now you have been successful with odor control. After odor removal comes rodent repelling. I had a mouse in my 87 Loyale 4WD 5spd hi/lo. I researched chemical treatments. Poisons are too dangerous. Various forms of animal urine are available. I found 'peppermint oil and spearmint oil' are seriously disliked by mice. I placed a combination of the oils in my air intakes and blasted the ductwork. The smell was so strong that sitting in the vehicle during 'venting' was difficult. The strategy is to drive it/them out and make the equipment unattractive to rodents. The strong smell will dissipate. Your vehicle will smell nice. I purchased the oils at an 'Herbal' type store. I am waiting for someone to tell me that a straight shot of these oils will eat up the plastic ducting. Hate those meeses to pieces........ I have been wondering about those animal urine products: If I apply coyote/fox urine to my vehicle and drive into the National Forests -- what kind/size critter will urinate on my vehicle to 're-mark it'??????