Juan

You're correct. I was wrong. Closer look at brochure (hadn't looked at it in a year or so) shows all GTs as having non-functional hoodscoops. Why would you want one of those -fake hoodscoops, I mean- ? Juan

It wasn't a Subie, but I was in an automatic when it was "tow" started due to dead battery. Just had to get going about 40 MPH in low. Juan

I have an original '98 dealer brochure that shows two pages of GT wagons without hood scoops. I also remember looking at the GTs on dealer lots when I bought my L and never saw a scoop. What is USDM? Juan

In Oregon, there is NO self serve gas. I've had to pump gas as I manage a large "store" that happens to sell gas and which has gas monkeys who can't be counted on to arrive to work on time (ever had someone pump your gas wearing a white shirt and necktie?). I've mistakenly pumped 27 gallons of regular grade fuel into a Chevy Tahoe and simply handed them the receipt and thanked them. Ooops. You gotta watch out when others pump your gas. That said, next time you don't get your mid-grade as requested, make them GIVE you a bottle of octane booster; even if you discover it later and come back (with your receipt, of course.) It is also true, at our pumps, that mid-grade fuel is created/blended by pumping high-grade fuel into the mid-grade tank as needed. That's why some stations run out of high-grade fuel first when supplies are tight. Hope that Tahoe didn't blow. Juan

Gotcha. Gotta love that Subie warranty. Juan

Another option would be to tow the motorhome. Just thinking outside the box. Juan

The passanger side wasn't a problem to replace? Did you have to re/move the air filter intake to get to it? Juan

First, why would you want a non-functional hood scoop? Second, I'm pretty certain that '97 through '99 US GTs didn't have hood scoops. Only the Outbacks had them. Juan.

I have to agree with the other posts. It's just the bridge and the tires. I just stay to the far right on such a bridge. Better to hit the guard rail than be head-onded (if that's a word) by a... motorcycle? Juan

I've noticed that the air-con on my '05 OBW is just like the heated seats: You gotta reach highway speed/rpm before they really kick in. It's just disapointing. At normal city driving speeds, my '98 air-con could freeze my tes.... At least, on the '05, I can set the heater to melt the buttons off my shirt. Juan

Never got a recall on mine. Haven't moved or anything. I'm sure mine is a "second-half-of-year" '05. Just a thought, though, if this is an admitted problem, wouldn't you think that they would be replacing them in pairs? I mean to say, isn't there a chance that both OEM bulbs could blow before someone makes it home some night? Anyone had them both replaced under warranty when only one was blown? Anyone just driven in and told them you weren't going to wait until they both blow to limp in and have them replaced and ask them to replace them while they are still working? I think Subie should start replacing them both at the same time. Obviously they believe that both OEM bulbs could go at once. Sure, one could limp in on fog lights (wouldn't want to risk a ticket for highbeam abuse), but no one paying $23,000+ for a car should have to take that risk. Juan

You'll know it when the fuel cuts off just like Roamer said. My '98 L wagon bucked off at 112mph. Don't know if it would have bucked back on had I kept my foot into it; I let off the gas as soon as the buck-shutdown scared the crap out of me. It woke my wife and, man, I had some 'xplainin' to do. It's surprising how fast a Subie wagon coasts down from 112mph. Juan

My 2005 OBW ATranny spins 3100 at 70mph. My problem is that the AT shifts into fourth at 30mph and dogs the engine at 1500rpm. It kills me to hear the engine lugging and have to drop it into "manual" and drag it down to third. You've actually gotten 29MPG in yours? Must have been a long down-hill run. Juan

I like the idea an after market turbo to avioid insurance penalty. Does our garandma need to run premium, high octane, fuel through that turbo? Juan

First, make certain that it's not a Brighten. Then take a look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55409 Good luck Juan

Uh, CS, FYI: that's not a wagon. Juan

Bigger engine and rims. More ground clearance. Most are/were 5-speeds with sunroofs and fog lights. Basically a lighter, less expensive Outback without the, in my opinion, ugly two-tone body panals, fake, hood scoop and lame "Indiana Jones" OUTBACK logo. Oddly enough, it has more room between the tires and the rocker panals for chains than the same-year Outback. Juan

Don't bother chasing it. Take it to you're dealer/service department. It's still under warranty. Took mine in last week and they "padded A piller" and rattle went away. It's pretty common, from what I've seen in here. Juan.

I would also check/test for Top Raman noodles or, at least, Cup O' Soup stuck somewhere. Juan.

Don't worry about it. At 83,000 miles be more concerned with the ignition switch going out on you. Do you know which fuse to pull when you pull the key OUT of the ignition and the starter motor is still turning AND the engine is running? You should 'Chinese fire drill" this while you have time. It's coming. Juan.

Just pull the parking brake. That shuts them off. Still, the headlight icon/light should AT LEAST go out if only the parking lights are on. They sure dropped the ball there. Don't know how many miles I drove at night thinking that my headlights were on because the headlight icon was on, only to discover that I had been driving with the low-light drivers on at night. Juan.

Esta loco? El tiemp es dinero. If I were interested in getting the max life out of my tires I'd rotate them each night when I return home from work; ain't gonna happen. I'd rather pay for a new set of tires sooner than later if it means I don't have to rotate them hourly. Juan

You're right, 1Sub. I guess that is what the Subie techs were doing before they decided to replace the 'computer'. Juan

Good point. I guess "free" means you sometimes get what you pay for. Juan

Sounds like they didn't upgrade the '06 much. My '05 is AT and when I step into it the revs don't back off for a second when I let completely off the gas. Revs just kinda "hang" there. Can't stand the sluggish "drive-by-wire" gas pedal; needs a stronger sping. Pretty sure your owner's manual will diagram the heat flow for "feet" as also coming out the top of the dash on this setting (mine does). I've found it better to turn on the "upper/feet" heat and aim the vents away and down. Still, no way to get good heat to driver's feet; no problem with passengers' feet though. Next car I buy, I'm taking it for a test drive until the sales person says, "Let's get back to the shop." Surprised you didn't mention how your knees and back ache after a long drive. Maybe they did change a couple things on the '06. Juan.