Bake

Might be that the Idle air control valve is sticking. Remove and clean with carb cleaner. Should fix the problem.

My 19yr old kid just wrecked my beloved Subie. Im looking to replace the front bumper, hood, radiator, front grille, both headlight assy's and both side light assy's. so I am planning a trip to the local U-Pull It lot to find suitable replacements. Does anyone know what, if any, the differences in body parts are between the 92, 93 and 94 model years? Are the parts interchangeable? Any info you could give would be helpful. Thanks

1993 Legacy 2.2L Normal breather. Here is what I know so far - The other day when starting her up the idle went to 2200 rpm for 30 sec or so and then dropped to 1200 rpm. Checked codes and found codes 24 - Idle Air Control Valve & 32 - 02 sensor. The IAC seemed like the logical place to start the troubleshooting since the 02 sensor does not factor in on a cold engine or at least I don't think it does. Anyways, I checked voltage at the IAC connector and got .5 volts on pin A, 12 volts on pin B, and 0 volts on pin C. I measured the resistance values between all three pins on the valve itself and read 7 to 13 ohms between them and measuring from the pins to ground I got >1 mega-ohm. I thought maybe the valve itself was sticking, so I removed it to clean it out. When I had it off, I bench check the valve with an exteranl 12v dc source and the motor drives the valve closed with no problem. So here is where I am getting stumped - there seems to be a good voltage source to the valve when the ignition is turned on, yet the vavle does not close when connected to the elec harness on the car. Also when the ignition is turned off there remains 12v dc applied to the B pin on the connector of the harness for approx 2 min's and then drops to 0 v. Any Ideas?? If it helps,the IAC on this engine is of the rotary valve type and not the solenoid poppet valve type. I hate to "shotgun" a $340 valve at it and not have it work - since most places won't take it back once its been connected to an electrical source.

Thanks for the info. Very informative site.

It starts but the engine surges at idle - from 200 rpm to 800 rpm. I've noticed the problem is intermittent. One time it runs fine, the next time I start it she stalls. Can you tell me where to plug in the code reader? Or is there a couple of pins on a cannon plug that you short togeather to read the flashing check eng light?

93 Legacy with the EJ-22 engine & standard transmission. Recently the negative battery cable connector at the battery cracked so I cut off the connector and replaced with an after market type bolt on clamp style connector. Drove the vehicle for about 20 miles with no problems - after letting the vehicle sit for several hours it started up and idle'd just fine but after it warmed up the engine immediately stalls when you let off the gas. Does not matter at what speed or rpm the engine is at. As soon as you let off the gas the rpm's immediately drop to 0. I've checked the timing of the camshafts to crank - thought maybe the timing belt slipped - checks good. All fuses check good. No vacuum leaks noted. Any ideas??