Dr. RX

JHot is a pretty reputatble company, I have purcahsed many things from them, all quality goods. If it weren't for the fact that they are on the other side of the USA from me, I would have probably purchased more, including this engine setup.

Legacy/Liberty came with a 4.11 rear diff, if you could find one with a manual tranny, thne you would have all you need, that is assuming that the Legacy/Liberty D/R portion of the tranny does not effect that pinion gear.

I don't think it will work, all of the 4.44 ratio rear diff I know of are in R180 diffd, I believe your old Leg has an R160 diff. As for the tranny, the 4.44 ratio trannies are in Imprezas, but I'm not sure if they are the same as your Liberty/Legacy tranny. The pinion gear in the tranny is an important part of the tranny, and requires taking the tranny completely apart to change it. I'm not sure if the D/R tranny would have the same type of pinion gear as the Impreza trannies.

What are you trying to do? Most gear sets (ring and pinion) are matched sets, they need to be replaced together. Why are you looking for a 4.44 rear diff, are you installing a 4.44 ratio tranny? The tranny and rear diff need to match. (I'm assuming by "crown wheel" you are talking about the ring gear)

How soon after puring oil into you engine did you measure the oil level? I you did it soon after, then all the oil had not made it's way to the pan yet, that would amount to a small change in the oil level. Also, and it may not be needed with these head gasket, did you get the heads re-torqued? I'm not all that familar with the EJ25, but I know in the EA series engines, most of the time that engine over heated, it was not the head gasket that blew, ususally it was the head gasket that blew as a result of the engine over heating. What caused the engines to over heat was the radiator, they usually got clogged and cause poor circulation and cooling, thus causing the engine to over heat. You might want to look at the rest of the cooling system. Take it someplace and get the system checked.

Too funny, the first job that I ever had was in a wrecking yard, I worked there afternoons and weekends while going to High School.

If you go to the newer lights, you will have to change the hood and grille to match.

Yea, one is geology related, the other is a sewing company that does small production runs for local designers.

Remove the spark plugs, it could have blown a head gasket and filled a cylinder with water. If so, and it has been sitting awhile, that cylinder is toast, you'll need to get another engine or have that one rebuilt (if possible).

Engine upgrade depend upon the engine that you have in the car. As for other type of upgrades (i.e. wheels, interior, body kits) almost everything that will fit on a 1993 to 2001 Impreza will fit on your car. There have been some interior changes that must be taking into consideration, but aside from that, everything else should fit. If you get real adventurous, you could always go for a JDM WRX drivetrain conversion.

I know you'll probably blow this away since we didn't get off on a good start, but I would suggest that you work at someone else's shop for a few years before you open on of your own. If you are a good mechanic, and the customers get to know you, some of them will follow you and you will have a ready base of customers to start with. Starting cold means that you don't have a reputation and that is what you need for repeat customers. No amount of certificates will do that for you. Most business fail within two years of starting, most because that didn't have a good customer base to begin with. I have two compnaies beside working for another, the first of my company recently celibrated it's 15th anniversary, the second will do that next summer. Both had a strong customer base before I started them base upon reputation working for others. Both companies are nitche companies with a small product range, there are very few other company that do what we do, so competition is limited. Not so in the automotive repair business, specializing in Subarus may be your goal, but with you background in Toyotas, maybe you should start as an Import Repair shop specializing in Subaru, but taking any import car. Build up you reputation, then if the customer base is there branch off to Subarus only. Well there you have it, take it for what it is worth.

So it is an automatic. Then most of what I said about the center diff will not apply.

You might try this web site, look under Scooby Page, then Workshop Manuals, then Workshop Manual for PRE MY97. It should give you the trouble shooting info you are looking for. http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/

Why would you care? They should be pretty much the same engine.

So, I'm going to assume that this is a 96 Subaru, so it will be AWD. Is it an automatic or standard? It seems to me that the front and rear don't match. Unless you got the tranny and rear diff out of the same car, how would you know that they match? Most wrecking yards could care less about the diff ratios, all they car about is what make (and somethings model) of car it came out of. If you got parts off a shelf at a wrecking yard, it is possible that you got a mismatch. Subaru no longer has the neat metcals on the back of the diff telling you what the ration is, so it is hard to determine what the ratio is. I understand that there is a code that Subaru does paint on the diff, but I haven't found a reliable source for that code. And even if you know what the rear diff is, how would you know what the tranny ratio is. The best way is to look at the dataplate on the car, assuming that it still has it original tranny, it will have the tranny model number on the dataplate. You should be able to call a Subaru dealer's part department and get them to find out the ratio using that number. Sometimes there is a decal still attached to the tranny with the model number of the tranny on it, you might look on the bell housing near the center top. Another problem could be (if a standard tranny) that the center diff is frozen, that will cause the front to back binding. I have a lockable center diff, and I can cause the wheels to bind on pavement if I lock it up. Hope this helps.

If you can prove ownership, you can take the VIN to a Subaru dealer and they can cut a key for you from the VIN.

I think you might want to change your board name, doesn't sound like it fits.

What the heck are you complaining about, buy it.

Great car for a rally car project.

Most take advantage of some tax law.

Although the turbo EJ22T is a great engine, the extra maintenance and special attention do not make it s good choice for the average person. The phase 1 EJ22 would be my first choice for someone who wanted a reliable car, that would be the Gen 1 Legacy 89 to 94 and the first two years of the Gen 2 Legacy, 95 and 96. After that they went to the phase 2 EJ22, which is just as good as the phase 1's but you need to pay special attention to timing belt maintenance, you will cause internal engine damage if the belt breaks while the engine is running (not so on the phase 1 EJ22).

Here's the problem, most Japanese horsepower figure are not the actual horsepower output, they are ratings giving for insurance and an agreement between Japanese automakers that no car would produce more the 280 hp. Don't you think it a little strange that the hp in the newer WRX's never got over 280hp, dispite years of development. Heck, even the Type R's and RA's were rated at 280hp, the they are basically street got race cars with lots of internal STi goodies in the engines, to think that they had the same hp as the common street version WRX is crazy. But I think the overall most powerful Subaru engine was the flat 12 developed for Formula 1 racing.

And how did you figure out how much got spilled?

Sorry that happened to you, but I drive in Oregon alot, and have never had such an experience. So, I'm sure that there are the occasional accidents, I doubt that they are the norm. I still think it is a lame excuse.