Dr. RX

Can't really say much about 2000 model year or newer, but the older ones are bullet proof, I have seen people break axles 4wheeling, but I have never heard of any of them breaking. Do you know if they are R80 or R60 (I think those are the correct numbers, maybe R180 and R160)?

I use an old drag racing trick, air usually gets trapped at the thermostat, on most of the thermostats I have installed in EJ series engines, there is a check flow valve (a wierd looking thing at the top of the thermostat throught a hole). The old drag racing trick is to drill small holes at the top of the thermostat, this allows the air to pass through, what I do is just cut the flow valve off, leaving the hole it goes through. This allows the trapped air to pass through even if the thermostat is closed. Make sure that you install the thermostat with the hole pointing up.

In all my reading on the Impreza Turbos, I have never come across one with a RS under the taillights. I do know that the first year, coded 'A', are the least reliable of all the Turbo Imprezas (WRX), they had major teething problems with the first production year. I'm not sure about the 93 models (code 'A'), but in 94 (code 'B') they came out with a type RA, and there is a decal under the JDM driver side taillight that states, "Type RA".

Hey Ed, did you ever get the BRAT back together???

Here is what the 86 FSM says about the weights. RX Sedan USA model 2,520 pounds 3DR 4WD Turbo (pre RX) 2,545 pounds I had one of these 3drs, mine actually had a VIN that worked out to be a RX, they had everything the Sedan RX had in them.

You like power, too bad you couldn't get the Legacy Turbo Wagon.

Here is a picture of the 87 Subaru Rally team, see any sedan in the picture???

Anypalce that allows studded tire to be run on dry or wet roads have them. I'm old enough to remember the time before studded tires, when road surfaces were rough because of lack of repair, not because they were being worn down by studded tires. They installed those reflectors on the side of the road so that drunks could drive home by brille.

Why not find out how Nokkia tests these tires. One of the tests that I've heard about is driving down hill onto a frozen lake at speed then locking up the wheels. The report that I remember, and changed my mind about studs, was that the un-studded Hakki's out performed the studded ones. On another note, unless you put the tires on only when needed, you will be destroying the roads. See all those ruts in the highway, they are caused by the steel of the studs wearing away the surface of the road like a grinder.

I can still see blue on the top of the car.

Why are you adding studs, I have a set of Hakka 2's without studs that work great. I drove from the Seattle, WA area to the Bend, OR area last winter, over the mountain passes, they worked great, never once lost traction, and I drive like a rally driver in the snow.

No wonder you can't afford a descent car.

Breakfast at the Rachner house, what a treat, I've done that several times at his old place. If you are hungry when you push away from the table it will be because of you. Jeane is a great cook, and make great la`tes too.

The Monte Carlo is the first rally of a new season. I believe it is Corsica this weekend.

Yea, I forgot about the Repair Manual on this web site, I looked it up there. Thanks for checking for me.

A friend at work has a 87 EA82 SPFI Wagon, I showed him how to pull the codes from the ECU, here is his latest code. I'm at work, so I don't have my books with me, anyone want to give this a shot?

But it is NOT a Legacy.

Exactly, thanks, I cleaned up my first post, hope it makes better sense now.

I really don't think the clearance is that tight. If the rod bearing was loose enought to cause a piston to valve collision, the noise would have been deafening and if it did hit the valve, it probably wouldn't do any damage because the rod would not be solidly attached to the crank, so there would be no force behind the blow.

To answer your question in the title, yes it does. Now, if you are going to put one in your car, does the transmission that is in the car have a 4.444 ratio? The front and rear need to match, unless the center diff compensates for the difference.

Bigger turbo = bigger lag. Are you sure you want a bigger turbo, or one that is better mapped for your engine. A bigger turbo can pump more air/fuel mixture into your engine, but the down side is that there is more inertia (spinning mass) to overcome. Turbo lag is the time it takes a turbo to overcome the inertia, to get back to producing boost. Sometimes the best thing to do is to get a bigger compressor side to your exsisting turbo, this will only slightly increase the mass while increasing the amount of air/fuel mixture. In a lot of cases, bigger is not always better. Now if you are only drag racing the car, this doesn't matter, but for a daily driver it does.

No, my being there would be a gift.

Does your's have the dual range tranny option??? The D/R was optional on the early HX models.

If these things were on Saturdays I wouldn't mind driving all the way to Portland, but on Sunday, no way. I start work at 4:30 AM so I need to be home by 7:30 PM at the latest. This is for a good cause, they have my wishes and prayers, but not my presents.

If so, they wouldn't bolt to a MPFI intake manifold. I'm assuming that this engine is running or complete, so if it is bolted all together, they would be either MPFI heads or turbo heads, and the only difference between those two is the oil passage.