Dr. RX

It is not called a Hatchback because at the time it was introduced, Subaru made another car tht was called a Hatchback, therefore, they called it a 3dr. Just curious, how much did you pay for it?

Dang Russ, I thought this was buried? Hey, what about Marvel Mystery Oil???

WOW, it is really good at removing lead based paint. Where they got the idea that lead based paint is similar to cabon buildup I'll never know, they are two different elements and chemicals react differently to both of them. Also how do we know that the test strips in those bottles are the same, and how do we know if those dates are actual dates. Are we suppose to believe the guy who is trying to sell the product to us? With all that aside, I thought we were talking about an oil here, not a carburator cleaner.

Well, if it doesn't break down, then it is not oil, it is a synthetic.

That is Dr. RX to you, and if it is parafin based, the product is made for cude oil from PA, it doesn't matter where in the world they bottle or can it. Parafin based product are just not that good, there must some very special additives. I currently run 100% synthetic oil in my cars. Petrolium base oild break down over time and lose their viscousity and that is not good for trying to keep metal parts from rubbing together.

This is an incrediable thread. It seems like this product he is pushing is an East Coast product probably only available at truck stops of repair shops. I have been working on cars for just over 50 years now, and Seafoam was old when I was young. It has been a part of my garage all this time. I was surprized to see that this product that he is pushing is a parafin based product (Pennsylvania cude is parafin based). When I as a teenager, and low on cash, we would buy gallon jugs of oil that was made from parafin based crude. After a few oil changes with that stuff, we had to run Seafoam through the engine to get rid of the sludge build up. I will never use a parafin based oil in any of my cars, no matter what wild claims of improvement are made.

I often wondered if that could be done, that would make it a real twin turbo car instead of a hand off from one turbo to the other. I loved the term VOD (Valley Of Death) to describe the lag between turbos.

How well do you know the area (I see you live in Seattle). I would be willing to help provide a space and special tools if you need them. PM me if you are interested.

That should depend upon your finances and mechanical abilities. You need to weigh whether the money that you have would be best spent in trying to mod the RX, or possibly upgrading to an Impreza. There are many more aftermarket speed parts available for an Impreza.

Nice pics, I would be interested into how you got it imported. Anyway, back to your question. The lag will change from driver to driver because of how they drive the car. The twin turbo were developed to provide a broader power range. I say drive the car for awhile and see if you notice a lag. There are ways to drive around the lag. But I wonder if this is really lag that they are talking about or a drop in power between were one turbo reaches max and the over starts to kick in. That is a sizing problem with the two turbos and might require some modification to eliminate.

I don't want to dampen your enthusiasum, mods to a RX are rarely cheap, and not usually easy. My current board name was given to me by other members of this board because of my knowledge of the Subaru RX model. I have known many people who have tried to improve the performance of the RX, some have sunk a lot of money into trying to do this only to throw in the towel in frustration. But if you want to give it a try, you may be the one to succeed. The most common upgrade that I have heard of was using the turbo and intercooler off a 2002 WRX, this is not a bolt up mod, will require some rework to the exsisting up-pipe, but it has been done. My frustration with trying to get more out of the RX is what lead me to build Ultimate RX, where I installed the drivetrain out of an EJ20G powered Legacy into the RX. I never got the car running well enough to be satisfied, so I sold it and built an Impreza. The current owner of Ultimate RX, did get it running properly, and was impressed with the performance he got, I believe he is still driving it. Good luck on your attempt, please keep me posted as I would like to see what you come up with.

From past experience, I would have the radiator checked. I glogged radiator will dump the coolant out the overflow. If it is the radiator, it would be a good time to get a new radiator cap also. Change your coolant to use only Subaru approved coolant, it is not cheap, but with help to keep the problem from coming back.

So where are you landing, Seattle or Vancouver, they are over 100 miles apart? Also is that Vancouver, BC (which has a commercial airport) or Vancouver, WA (which does not have a commercial airport, but Portland airport is just across the river)?

Just bought one, total was $93.67 USD via PayPal.

Maybe it's time to upgrade your brakes to all disc. But to answer your question, I think I would be safe in saying that any rear drum Legacy backing playe from 1995 to 1999 would work since that is the range of that body style. Other could work, but to be safe, I'd stay in the range.

Of what, the front clip. or the car. No car pictures, but here are the pics from the place I bought it, http://www.venus-auto.com/coming/b5/95_gc8/1.htm and http://www.venus-auto.com/coming/b5/95_gc8/2.htm I am currently in the process of removing the drivetrain from the front clip, then I will strip out the wiring harness and cut out some possibly useful body parts. The front clip came without any of the body parts seen in the second picture.

I'm curious, is it a SOHC or a DOHC, I knew Subaru made N/A versions of the EJ20, but I have never seen one. I have a lot of experence with the EJ20G. In fact I just had a rare version of the EJ20G delivered yesterday, the orginal car was a limited edition built in the 96 model year, it was a WRX STi Ver 2 555, it was the only version of the WRX that year that came in blue. Color choices on normal WRXs was very limited, either white, silver or black.

Yea, Shawn is right. It has been a few years since I dealt with EA82 engines, I had forgotten about the multi port injection on the XT, I do remember that a few of the EA82T owners had used that intake on their cars, some even got the N/A version to work. Doing a head gasket replacement would be cheaper the doing a conversion. I would strongly suggest that if you do the conversion or H/G replacement that you replace the radiator also. Your current radiator may have been the reason your H/G blew. Subaru radiators have a nasty habit of clogging with deposits in the coolant. I learned this the hard way, I pulled and rebuilt my engine thinking it was a head gasket going out, only to have the same problem when I put the new motor in. I bought one of those lasar temperature readers and found that the temp going into radiator was over 180 degrees and the temp leaving was about 80 degrees. This was with the car sitting still, no air flowing over the radiator. Using the lasar device, I notice that there was a large cold spot in the middle of the radiator, actually most of the radiator. When I replaced the radiatro, the problem went away.

I'm a little confused here, SUBIE-5 states that his XT is a NA (normally aspirated), yet the first response mentions turbo, the second gos off in a different direction. If your XT is a N/A engine, it is that same as the EA82 SPFI with the exception of the intake manifold, in which case you simply swap manifolds.

The first thing that I would do is have the radiator chemically flushed to remove any deposit that has been forming from using other coolants, then I would use that Subaru expensive stuff with the Subaru additive. It's that old FRAM saying, "You can pay me now, or pay me later." I learned this the hard way. I thought that I had a head gasket that was going bad, so I pull the engine and rebuilt it. Reinstalled the engine and still had the same problem. I got one of those laser temperature measuring devices and took various readings on the radiator. That showed that there was blockage in the radiator. I run an aluminum radiator and was using coolant that was suppose to be used in aluminum radiators. I did a lot of research before I replaced the radiator with another aluminum radiator and found that the Subaru stuff was the best of anything out there.

Would you keep it FWD??? I will have a complete rear suspension available in a month or two. Corky

If you should finally throw your hands up in the air, before you take it to the crusher, there are a few parts that I would like off the car (if it weren't so far away, I'd come and get the whole car). PM me if it comes to that.

An EJ20T is a marketing code for those who sell aftermarket used engines. There is no such code used by Subaru, it is either an EJ20G, EJ20K, EJ205 or EJ207. And those are the order that Subaru released them also, the "G" was 1989 to 1998, the "K" was 1996 to 1998, I beleive that the "205" started in 1999, but I'm not sure when the "207" started production. The over lap onthe "G" and "K" was that the WRX wagons usually had the "G" until 1998, the sedan and coupe started using the "K" in the 97 model year (prodution started in 1996).