Dr. RX

TROGDOR, it wasn't the ratio that I was talking about, it was the axle, I heard somewhere that autos had a 25 spline axle like the turbos, going to a 3.70 turbo tranny with 25 spline axles, you might not need to change the axles with an auto tranny.

I'm not sure of the costs, but here is a parts list for a manual tranny. You'll need a tranny, rear diff and axles out of a turbo car. I'm not too sure about an auto conversion, but I know you'll need the tranny and rear diff, you may not need to change the axles.

WOW, I never knew that, I thought that prior to WWII, Fuji Heavy Industries was know as Nakajima. In WWII, all Nakajima planes were powered by radial engines. After Subaru was formed, there was an private airplane similar to a Cessna, that was powered by a Subaru engine, but that was after those engines were used in the cars. Opposing piston engines are not the trade mark of Porsche, the original Volks Wagon (1938) was powered by a flat 4 designed by Dr. Ferry Porsche, but there were others in the world prior to that, they just never got the notority that Porsche did. To maintain a low center of gravity, the boxer is a good choice, I believe that is why Subaru choose it, not because Porsche and VW were using one.

Actually, the best is to use Legacy or Impreza front struts, knuckles and axles, use the XT6 tie rod ends and brakes. In the rear you have only one choice, and that is XT6 parts. Check my web site for info on these conversions.

You might want to read this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42695

No, EJ20G is the correct Subaru engine model number for the early EJ20 turbo charged engines, so the EJ20T doesn't exsist except in the minds of JDM engine importers who use a generalized code for engines which is where you see it most often, but it is still wrong.

Actually it is a VLSD, and acts differently then a LSD. If I remember correctly, they only came on the 91 Legacy Turbo with manul trannies, but recent Matt found one in an auto trannied Leg Turbo. I'm really surprized that a LSD is not stock on a WRX.

So, now you are probably going to pay more then the price difference to get the power that you would have had with the XT. Given that, my question is still the same. It's like the old FRAM oil filter commercials, "You can pay me now or pay me later." I may be old, but I don't need bold print to read, but thanks for thinking about me. I often just skim these posts so I may miss things some times.

I guess I'm wondering why you didn't get the XT version.

So, I'm wondering why you didn't go with a WRX engine, either JDM or USDM?

You still running Washington plates down there in Texas??

Ed, I don't think Rob is brining a trailer, the trailer that I am talking about is mine.

A friend of mine has an 87 SPFI wagon that he recently put a rebuilt engine into, now he gets a check engine light. I told him to look for the blinking light on the ECU and count the flashes. He told me that he counted 3 long and 5 shorts, so that would be a code 35. My 86 FSM doesn't show a code 35, does anyone have any idea what that code is?

Rob, if you are coming up, Saturday would be the day, I'm putting the trailer in the back yard next to the old parts and starting to load it up this weekend.

Zap, I think those are sap from the birch tree the hood was under, it should buff out. The hood that I gave Tex had the same white spots.

Josh, there is a difference between a Legacy type RA and an Impreza WRX Type RA. To answer the question here, yes a Type RA is a STi (sometimes, see the link), but not as we think of the STi's of today. Here is a good site that gives you VIN data, although there has been some who have suggested that it is not 100% correct. http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html Note, a Type RA is a 4 door, a Type R is a 2 door.

The hood looks like it turned out ok. It look great.

I don't mean to talk down to you, but you only see a thumbnail because that is what it is. As for the rest of what you said, maybe the problem is that you are not willing to listen what others are telling you. Quoting from Haynes or Chilton's means nothing in my book, on any given day, I can find errors with either book. These are my last words in the post, flame away.

OK, if there are 255 teeth on the belt, and there are only 20 teeth on the crank gear, when the belt has made one rotation, the crank will have rotated 12 times, plus 15 teeth. I can't remember the exact number of teeth at the moment, but that is the reason why the line don't line up after they are used to set up the engine.

Crank once, cams 1/2 rotation. There are 720 degrees of ration in a 4 stroke engine, the crank rotates twice for even single turn of the cam. So, if the cams have only rotated a half a turn, do you really think the lines will line up with the timing marks after one turn?

Well, it not a matter of sematics or context. In each case you stated, TDC is the same, when the piston is at the highest point in the upward stroke. Where the examples vary is additional information they provide, like 'compression stroke'. If you are taking compression stroke, then it must be assumed that the valve timing is to be taken into consideration in which case it would be the TDC when all the valves are closed. I think most of your confusion is coming from the fact that you are trying to set the engine before you remove that old belt. Forget about that, remove the belt, then set up the engine to add the new one. I was told by a Subaru mechanic that once the timing is set and the engine is rotated, those marks never line up as they should again. You do need to know if you engine is a clearance engine or not, as that will necessitate which direction you need to rotate the cams to align the marks. The way that I do it is the make sure the #1 is TDC on the compression stroke, then I remove the old belt. I align the cams to the timing marks, then install the new belt using the line on the belt to match with the timing marks. I've done 3 DOHC and 4 SOHC EJ series engines that way, and everyone of them fired up on the first crank. I hope this is what you were looking for.

Sorry Frag, but I really don't think you understand. TDC happens every time the piston reaches the upper most point in the stroke. Now, if you include the valve timing in this, then there is a TDC on the compression stroke and a TDC on the exhaust stroke. When setting the engine timing you must use the TDC on the compression stroke, which is what the article was talking about. As for timing marks, there is one to tell the position of the crank, and one (or more) to tell the position of the cam(s), it takes both sets of marks to be 'timed' together to make the engine run. When you are talking about setting timing BTDC, then you are talking about setting the ignition spark, not the alignment of the engine components. Is that clearer now?

Well that is true, but if you rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at the top of the stroke, and then set the cams, #1 will be at the top of the compression stroke. Now if you crank it through until the #1 pistoin is again at the top of the stroke, and then reset the cams again, the #1 piston will again be at the top of the compression stroke. So you see, it both cases that #1 piston was at the top of it's stroke, aka top dead center of the stroke, but until the cams were set to match the position of #1 piston, there was no compression stroke. Only after the cams (valve timing) is set does it determine if it is the compression stroke or not. Is this too advanced for you???

When the crank mark and the cam marks are aligned, #1 will be TDC. Since these are four stroke engines, #1 is TDC every other stroke, one stroke down, next stroke up, next down then up, four strokes, it is TDC at the top of ever up stroke, it is in the proper place when the cams are aligned too. This is basic Gas Engine 101 stuff, if you are going to work on engines, you need to understand these simple principles.

Check these guys, they have the newer stuff, http://www.jdmpartstx.com/ .