Dr. RX

It's a place, and the name of an indian tribe.

If you look in the 'For Sale" section you find that awhile ago, I stated that I was looking for a FWD 5 speed EJ series tranny, that is the tranny that I would be using. I thought about twin turbo, and that might be an option later, but for the first engine, it will have the single turbo.

Actually I was think of a box channel type aluminum frame, similar to the 2005 Chevy Corvette. Yep, I'll have an English Wheel, that is the first tool on the list for the new garage, then a good HVLP paint system, next it will be a set of a metal stretcher and shrinker. I've got most of the other metal working tools, but a pneumatic planishing hammer would be nice.

Well, I couldn't figure out where else to put this, so here it is. After I get my garage build (waiting on building permit approval now), I'm going to start gathering parts for a long term project. I made a rough sketch the other day and filled it in with fine point markers today, it is still pretty rough, but I've got time to smooth it out. It will be powered by an EJ20G (I just happen to have a space one sitting around). I tried to incorporate the new grille pattern that Subaru tends to be going towards into the design. I'd like to make the thing out of aluminum, but I need to get a TIG welder first. Anyway here is a link to the sketch, let me know what you think. http://corkysrocks.net/SubiMidEngProto.jpg

It's real simple, what is the first letter in the VIN, if it is 'J', then it came from Japan, if it is somethiing else, I think the USA was 'S', it was made outside of Japan.

Does anyone watch Jeopardy? What is the host's name?

Here is a link to the new Subaru to be introduced at the Detroit Auto Show. http://www.nasioc.com/gallery/B9Tribeca/

I've heard that they revised the EJ22, not sure which year they did that, but I haven't heard anything bad about the newer version of the EJ22 yet. Also the problems seemed to be with the DOHC EJ25s, the SOHC EJ25s seem to have fixed those problems.

WOW, I'm just the opposite, my 96 doesn't have half the problems my EA81s and EA82s had. It doesn't overheat, it doesn't burn oil, it has lots more power, parts are more available, and if I wanted, aftermarket performance parts are easily available. I do agree with the caution on the 'phase 1' EJ25s, but you can't go wrong if you get one with the rock solid EJ22 in it. Oh yea, to answer your question. Yes, your second car should be a Subaru, and your third and fouth, fifth, sixth, .......... Scoobaru, if you'd like to trade your 02 OB for my 85 Turbo Wagon, you've got a deal.

Come on guys, he has an 86 GL-10 Turbo Wagon. I don't have my books with me to check, but I think the wagon was only 4WD. The tranny would be a single range, push button, on-demand 4WD. I too am very curious about this "binding" since replacing the clutch has nothing to do with the rear of the car at all (with the exception of un-bolting the driveline). I would definately ask the shop exactly what they did.

Right hand driver versus left hand drive.

I'll let someone else guess the others.

When I first read this, my initial thought was, "There wasn't a 2002 STi in the USA.", but that I saw where you were from. To answer your question, I believe it is correct that the earlier, "GC" models were/are lighter, especially the 2 door model. I believe the horsepower would be the same though, around 280hp, there were a few models that had 300hp, but I believe those were only available in Japan. Where the STi's were quicker was in the gearing, they usually had a close ratio tranny and a lower final ratio (4.44 versus 4.11), this made them very quick off the line and out of the corners, but the top speed suffered. If I were in Austraila, I'd probably be driving a GC8D28 (that is that model code for a 1997 WRX STi Type R).

No, there is probably still some air in the block somewhere and it is slowly getting displaced by water. The thing that usually is a sign of a blown head gasket is when those air bubbles are filled with smoke or they create an oil sheen on the water in the filler.

Wasn't the B4 exported to Australia and New Zealand? That doesn't mean that they will have manuals though, I tried to get some for my 96 WRX from there and only the dealers had them, and those were not for resale.

If you had read what I said, you would see that I said the radiator for the I/C is seperate from the engine radiator. The WRX uses an air to air I/C so it doesn't need all the extra stuff. All Subaru air to water I/Cs had their own pump and radiator. The air to water I/C still requires a hood scoop. "Bumper space for an intercooler"??? What are you talking about, a front mounted air to air I/C???

Correction, the parts page at Liberty Subaru states that, my Subaru Parts Book only shows that parts as a LSD rear diff, it doesn't give the ratio. I sent Liberty an e-mail asking them to verify that part number as being a 3.90 ratio. I'm not surprized that they haven't answered.

Yea, you'll still need the pump, radiator (different for the engine radiator) and all the lines. It is interesting that the guy in the link used a reservoir tank, on the Legacys it recirculates the water from the tank above the I/C through the radiator, no water reservoir.

Well, I know the first two anyway.

Well, I wouldn't be too sure about that, the problem is that none that came to the USA had front LSDs, there were several in Japan that had them, and even a few that got exported to places like the UK, NZ and Aus had them.

Boy, it's nice to see Skip is back posting again.

I think that was enough of a change in temperature to help with the supply of electricity. At 7 degress, like Caboobaroo stated, there probably wasn't enough juice in teh battery to supply energy to everything, but later, when it was warmer (if you can call 20 degrees warm lol ) there probably was. There are several things that you can do. You can get a new battery that has great cold cranking power, or you can try to insulate your battery from the cold.

There are a couple of things that aren't being stated here that might have a bearing on why. First, what time of day was it when you first tried to start it and what time of day was it when the tow truck arrived? Second, how fast was it turning over? At those temperatures, oil gets thick, and therefore would cause the engine to turn over slowly. Also at those temperatures, batteries are not up to their best as far as cranking power. It could have been that the combination of the thick oil and poor cranking power of the battery didn't provide enough juice to create a good spark. It might have been warmer (just enough warmer) later when the tow truck came, and there was just enough juice to get a good spark.

1983, there are people on this board who weren't even born yet in 1983. But yes, you have come to the right place, there are a few of us fossils here too.

Well there really doesn't seem to be much interest in this, so I think I'll not make the drive. Ken if that other project gets going let me know, I might come down Sunday if it does.