Dr. RX

I'm told the JDM 2005's have a nav system, but so far it is only in Japanese. If you look at the one in the 2005 Nissan's thery look like they are a bolt in for where they should be on the Legacy's. That would make since because Nissan provides a lot of electrical stuff to Subaru.

Actually you have to connect a connector. There should be a connector (either green or blue) that has a single wire leading to it. When it is connected, the 'Check Engine" light on the dash will flash the code to you. This should be move to 'New Gen' section.

?????? One mod to one piece of a three piece tranny mount is a lot of mods??? The wiring of the aftermarket ECU required no mods, just takes time.

Well I guess it is just me or something, but I have driven from the Puget Sound area (Bellevue and Sammamish) to and through the Sacarmento area many time in one day. My last trip down that way I stopped in Portland and picked up a friend, we left his house about 10 AM, we got to Lodi in time for dinner around 8 PM (the sun was still up). But you guys are going to be making a few stops along the way (we stopped once for food and gas). It isn't that far from Klamath Fall to Bend, a couple of hours at the most. So if everything goes well, you guys should be able to make it to Hood River in one day.

Well, I'm not sure what GD is talking about, but I have installed a JDM EJ20G Legacy engine into a 87 RX, it pretty much bolts right in. The only modifications that I had to do was to fabricate a new back tranny mount bracket from the original one, I also used the Legacy tranny. The 86 and 87 have the same tranny tunnel and they are narrower at the back then the Legacy, but the front bolts right up. The hardest part of these transplants if the electrical. Hooking up the ECU for the JDM EJ20G can be a lesson in patience. I used an after market ECU for my transplant, much easier, but a lot more expensive. There were two series of Legacy EJ20Gs, one made 200hp and the other made 220hp. Why not try to find a JDM WRX engine, if you stay with a manual tranny and a sedan, they start with 240hp and go up to about 280hp.

Ken, he's not after you, , he's after the Justy. And if in the process he knocks you off too, all the better. Good luck Rob!!!

Look great, is that a Porsche 914 skirt piece?? Can you notch that rear piece, and built up the open areas that causes, then attached the notched piece to the door so it look the same? Too bad you are so far away, we could do that in a weekend, then get it prepped and painted the next.

Get an adjustable waste gate valve and install it between the vacuum line that goes to the waste gate.

Boy there are a lot of variables that need to be considered. In my 86 turbo sedan, I would have no problem going over the passes around here if the outside temp was below 80 degrees with the A/C going, by the time I got to the top the temp would probably be around 195 or 200 degree. Any hotter then 80 degrees out side, I'd have to switch it off and on to maintain an inside temp while trying to keep the tengine temp from getting over 200 degrees. It seems that the more that I need the A/C the less I can run it without over heating the engine.

They don't have one.

Problem fixed, I got a vacuum guage (something I've needed for a long time) and did a check, the needle flipped between 4 to 5 points from 0 to 5 on the scale, that told me that I either had valve timing problems or a leak in the intake manifold heat riser. Well I knew the heat riser was fine, so that left the valve timing issue. I pulled the cam cover off and could see the first three (#2 intake and exhaust, and #4 exhaust) valve pretty easy and they were ok, I couldn't see #4 intake, so a got my inspection mirror and looked. I had to look from several angles before I was convinced that it was not right (see attached sketch), so I got a long screw driver and pryed the follwer back into place, bolted everything back up, and now it runs great. My wife says that it seems to have even more power then before.

I understand that the Japanese versions have them, but in Japanese, maybe they will be offered later this year or as part of the 2006 model year.

Shipping pins (the little plastic things) were removed, but I didn't "pump" them, I figured that would happen under normal operation, but I did think about that after the fact. They have very little deflection by hand when I tested them by hand before installing them. I would think that if they collapsed that they would click, there is no clicking sound

The cams are dead on, at least by the timing marks. They are exactly were the were before I replaced the lifters.

My 85 Turbo Wagon had some noisy hydraulic lifters (cam followers) on the driver side (cylinders 2 & 4), so last weekend I replaced them with new ones. After I put everything back together there was no low end power, seemed to run good at high rpms but not at low, and there was no power (vacuum) assist to the brakes at low rpms. The only thing that is connected with the vacuum system that I touched was the pipe that goes from between cylinders 2 & 4 up to the EGR valve. I speculated that the EGR valve might have gone bad so I replaced it. Things got a little better, but no much. I checked the old EGR valve witha hand vacuum pump and it functioned properly, so it wasn't that. I have made a visual inspection of every vacuum line and can see nothing that might cause any problem. The car ran fine with the exception of an occasional clicking of the lifters before, so whatever happened, it did so while I was installing the new lifters. I thought the new lifters might be keeping the valves open so I pulled #2 plug wire and the engine slowed down and sped up again when I re-istalled it, so I don't think it was that. It does seem to get better the more it is driven. It also seems to run better that more advance it has on the distributor (uumm doesn't the vacuum advance the distributor at low rpms?), but now it is as far as the distributor can be adjusted. Since I never remove the distributor, it should have maintained the same timing with the cam. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing the low rpm loss of vacuum??

OOHHH, that's better, it does help when I put on my glasses. :lol:

OK, I'll tell you since these two didn't directly. WCSS = West Coast Subaru Show

SATURDAY????? Isn't the 18th a Sunday?

There are a few kits out there for turbocharging a RS 2.5, that should also work on your 2.2. There is a big difference between what you need to get the job done, and what you want the end results to be. For example, you don't need an I/C, turbo timer, or boost guage to turbo charge the engine, but they all would be improvements over just turbocharging. Another option is installing a JDM WRX engine. When you are finished with buying and installing all the stuff you need to convert your engine, you will have probably spent more then if you had installed a JDM engine.

I use a product made by 3M, designed for removing these glues/adhesives, any auto paint store should have it.

Hey there's an echo.

Hey there's an echo.

I use the same stuff that they use to glue in windshields. I wouldn't use Gorilla glue, it foams up and expands, great for wood that is clamped together and will be resurfaced after glueing, but not much else.

Sounds like a good reason to buy one with the 5 speed manual.

A picture would help.