Dr. RX

I wish that they would move that around the country, it's a long way from Washington state to where they hold them. I always wanted to build a car for that event, but gave up when I found out where they held the event. But that the is typical, most magazine are east coast flavored, so we don't see much of those types of events out here. It must be something about only have three states on the west coast line. By the way, congratulations.

On my 86 EA82T it is not, it is as I told you. What good would a mark on the distributor do it the distributor is not on the correct tooth. Why don't you try what I suggest and see if it works. It has for every EA82 that I have tuned, 86 or not.

The EJ22 was introduced with the US model Legacy in 1990, the turbo version started in 1991 and ran until 1994, the JDM (Japanese Domestic Model) 22B was different from the EJ22 that the US models had. I was basically the same block, but had DOHC heads with hydraulic lash adjusters, with the US modle has a SOHC. I have never heard of any uear that teh EJ22 had any problems, it is probably the best engine that Subaru has ever built. There were problems with the early auto trannys, but not the engine. The early EJ25s were a different story, the DOHC EJ25s had piston slap problems that were never solved until the SOHC version was released in late 1999. This post should be moved New Generation area.

Something you said got me thinking, you aren't pointing the rotor straight back to the firewall are you??? If you are, that might be your problem. As you are facing the firewall, the rotor should be pointed at a 35 to 40 degree angle to the left of pointing straight at the firewall. No, I don't know of any easy way to check the cam timing other then take everything back off. That is why I alway test start the engines I work on before I put all that stuff back on, including the radiator. If it starts, I shut it down immediately, then finish putting everything back on, if it doesn't, that I have less stuff to get out of the way to trouble shot the problem.

If it is puffing back through the carb, then the cam timing is definately off. I would re-check that to make sure that it is correct. The first cam to be set is the left side (as sitting in the driver's seat looking forward) I believe, that will set the distributor. When I set the cams, I set both at the same time. With the left timing mark pointing straight up, the right side cam's timing mark should be pointing straight down. Sorry that I missed that you were from Australia.

No the XT is different. I know this isn't going to help you now, but I am in the process of trying to figure out how to do this conversion, but it probably won't happen for another couple of months. It will be for an 86 GL-10, and though it may be similar, there may be enough difference between the two that it might not work on an 87 or new digi-dash.

Remember where I told you the rotor should be, pointing to the u-joint on the steering, well that would be #1. I believe the rotor rotates counter clockwise. I wish I could remember the firing order, I think it is 1-4-2-3, if so, the next spot on the cap (the one nearest the engine) would be #4, the next one near tyhe battery would be #2, and the last one near the strut tower would be #3. The pistons are #2 and #4 on the driver side and #1 and #3 on the passenger side. Everytime I replace the belts on my 86 or 85, I use the method of poiting the rotor at the u-joint on the steering and the engine fires right up, with only minimal adjustment needed.

Sounds to me that the timing is off. Check the timing belts to see if they were installed correctly. If they are correct, bring #1 to top dead center (timing mark on flywheel) and remove the distributor cap, look to where the rotor is pointing. Is it pointing toward the top steering column u-joint? If not, it is not timed correctly.

Actually Tex, you want the BOV to dump the pressurized air upstream of the intake side of the turbo to keep it spooling. I see all these guys venting to the air, I guess because they like the sound, but that is a waste of energy that can be redirected to the turbo to all but eliminate lag.

Sorry to take so long to get into this post. I'm sure there is such a thing as too much oil pressure, but what that is I'm not sure. I would hope that Subaru would have made a guage that wouldn't register higher then the max, in which case you would be safe. Have you talked with any dealer or service garages that deal with Subarus about this? I have never heard of this, so I'm lost for an explaination. As for the oil on the inside of the hood, it look more like it is directly over the crank pulley, if that is the case, then I would suspect the main seal. Not that hard to change, but if you have the engine that far torn down, you might as well service the oil pump, change the cam seals and change the timing belts. I suspect the smoke is from the oil dripping onto the crossover pipe which run right under where the main seal would be leaking. I hope this also answers the e-mail you sent me.

When you get my book, bring it over and I'll sign it for you. By the way, are you using a stock EA82 turbo?? It has a diaphram assisted waste gate doesn't it?? If your waste gate is set at 15 psi, would it do any good to have a bov set at 20 psi??? Intercooling is a great idea if you are planning to race the car, but for a day to day driver it really isn't going to show you much (unless you race to and from work like Tex ).

Jamie will be at the Oregan Trails End rally at the end of the month, maybe you can make arrangements to meet with her down there if that isn't too late.

Yep, that's the guy Richie.

Actually Ed, the car was located just north of Woodinville (just off of 228th) when I pulled the LSD out of it. That is also where jrach picked it up from. I think that was his mother's house, but I do think his father lives in the Shoreline area.

ByTheSea, if you look at Tex's second post here, he stated that he used a GC8 strut. GC8 is a common (but mis-used) term for an Impreza. The XT6 and the EA82s don't have struts in the rear, they use coil over shock absorbers, there are several different spring rating for those shocks.

All the front parts will work, all the rear parts won't. The rear attach to a spindle, not an axle. I've heard that the backing plate off of a 2WD will work, but you need to enlargen the hole in the center where it attached to the rear hub.

I'm not sure about this, but I believe that I am the first to have successfully done this conversion in the USA (see my web site), but I was probably not the first to think about it. I noticed that shortly after I had done it, there were several more people who accomplished the task. Since then I have done some more investigation. Since Tex lives close to me, and I knew he was thinking of doing the conversion, I asked him to test some of my ideas. The test was to see if Impreza and Legacy parts would work for part of this conversion. I let him borrow the complete front assembly (strut, knuckle, and axle) from an Impreza, it fit perfectly. I would suggest using the Impreza parts because I know that the Impreza axle is only 4mm longer then the EA82 axle, but I never checked the Legacy's axle length. If the Legacy's axle is the same as the Impreza, then those parts would work also. Known parts that will work and are currently on a car with a conversion. Front: XT6 struts (2WD or 4WD) XT6 knuckles XT6 axles XT6 lower arms XT6 ball joints XT6 tie rod ends XT6 front calipers XT6 front discs XT6 front hubs XT6 front backing plates Impreza struts Impreza knuckles Impreza axles Impreza ball joints Impreza tie rod ends Impreza front discs Impreza front hubs Impreza front backing plates Legacy struts So, the main parts that are needed from the XT6 to make this work are the lower arms and the front calipers (they will bolt to an Impreza assembly). Rear: Only XT6 4WD parts here XT6 rear hubs XT6 rear backing plates XT6 rear discs The rear calipers off the EA82 are the same as the rear calipers off a XT6. I'm pretty sure that if the Legacy axles are the same as the Impreza's, then all the parts that I names from an Impreza would work from a Legacy.

I got to thinking about this the other day, but I hope that some of our under aged members don't plan on taking part in this event. Since it is an organized event, and you are under age, the event organizers could be arrested for contibuting to the deliquency of a minor. What you do at your camp site is up to you, but at this event, I will be checking ID, if you are under age, I'm going to have to tell you that you can not participate. I hate to be a spoil sport, but I also hate going to jail.

It's been on eBay before, it didn't sale then, looks like it isn't going to sell this time either. I don't think I would try to sell a car like that on eBay.

Sorry Earl, but I have to do this. Which witch are you looking for???

Consider what causes the turbine part of the turbocharger to spin, it is exhaust gases. So when you lift your foot off the gas, it stops the flow of fuel to the engine, with no fuel to burn, there are no exhaust gases created, therefore, there is nothing to spin the turbine. I don't know what you have done to the engine so far, so I can't say exactly what might cause the 'kicked in' effect you are experiencing. A guess would be that you are over pressurizing the induction system and after you take your foot off the gas, the system is just trying to normalize itself. Another thing to consider is inertia, it is simple physics, an object at rest tends to stay at rest, an object in motion tends to stay in motion. I could be that you are accelerating just prior to lifting your foot of the gas, the turbine is trying to spool up to catch up with the speed of the exhaust gases. So with no pressure from the exhaust gases, it now continues to spin while slowing down slowly, thus creating boost. Sounds like you have a turbo that spins freely.

The best thing is to get a factory service manual, or find someone who has one that you can borrow. That is the basic sequence.

You do not have to remove the engine. I changed both heads on an 83 wgaon, engine still in the car. Have you ever work on any engines before???

Looks more like part of a casting number, since it is stamped into the same place the engine number is stamped.

This is the place I was thinking of, but I don't see your graphics here. I bet if you e-mail them a picture of your car, they will be able to tell you if the graphics still exsist. http://www.bgsales.com/auto/stape.asp