Dr. RX

Yea, Zap is right, if you can't afford $100 for a 3.700 LSD, then don't ever look for a VLSD. The prices that I have seen are between $200 and $400 for a VLSD. I think you best bet for autoXing is a LSD.

Look at my picture under my name, the is what the LSD tag looks like, a 3.900 LSD would look the same, but have 3.900 instead of 3.700 and a different part number. When you create a 3.900 LSD you keep the ring and pinion of the 3.900 and change the carrier (the part the ring gear bolts to). The picture the you show is of a stock 3.900 open diff available of every 4WD Suby that is not turbocharged. The rear diff on the Legacy turbo is a VLSD, and is really not a good diff to use if you plan to 4 wheel with your car.

300TD4X4, I don't know of any of the engine importers that use the correct codes for Subarus, most of them are use to the codes used for the Hondas, Toyotas and Nissans, I believe one of them uses 'T' to designate turbo, so they use it. Besides, if you look at the block, you will only see EJ20, so they probably just add the "T" after that and think that they are correct. My clip is a EJ20G, but being out of a WRX, it is probably an open deck engine, it is rated at 250hp. The 5 speed tranny has a 4.111 ratio. And yep it does include the ECU.

It is kind of hard to discribe the differences, but the XT6 bearing surfaces is narrower then the Impreza or Legacy. If it had been the way to go, why did Subaru change it first on the Legacy, then on the Impreza?? They are a single narrow surface, the EA82 had two bearing and supported the weight better. The Imprezas and Legacys have much wider bearing, therefore transfering the weight more evenly. The only XT6 parts that I'll use on any future 5 bolt conversions are the front lower arm, the brake calipers, front and rear, the rear brake disc, the rear brake backing plate, and the rear axle hub, everything else will be Impreza. Sorry about your lap top and my web page.

Junkyard, unless you are putting them in something other then a right hand drive Subaru, these will not fit in a LHD Subaru because the to left side turbo location and the location of the brake booster. But these might work for the application mentioned in this posting. I have to laugh at the item on the link, it says that it is a WRX twin turbo, well Subaru never made a twin turbo WRX, the twin turbos are from a Legacy B4. Looking at the picture, this engine is at least a 97 because of the air intake. Shipping from Florida to central California would be spendy.

I'll bet that 2.5 Legacy front clip is a N/A engine and not a turbo. Please use the correct engine code, I have copied the following from another post. 6) Engine designations: EJ20D: closed deck and open deck non-turbo DOHC engines EJ20E: open deck SOHC engines EJ20G: closed deck and open deck single turbo DOHC engines MY90-MY96 EJ20H: open deck twin turbo DOHC engines MY93-98 EJ20K: open deck single turbo DOHC engines MY97-98 EJ20R: open deck twin turbo DOHC engines MY96-98 EJ205: open deck single turbo DOHC engines MY99 on EJ207: semi-closed deck single DOHC turbo engines MY01 on EJ209: open deck twin turbo engine MY99-03 EJ22E: open deck SOHC engine EJ22G: closed deck engine (22B: DOHC, Legacy Turbo: SOHC) EJ25D: open deck DOHC engine MY96-98 EJ251: open deck SOHC engine MY99 on EJ257: semi-closed deck DOHC single turbo engie MY03 on As you can see, there are many EJ20s that are turbo charged, so using the code EJ20T could be any one of those. I asked about where Pollock Pines was because my 94 WRX STi front clip is for sale, the asking price is $2000 plus shipping, I didn't want to mention that if you lived on the east coast. It has the engine and tranny, the complete front suspension, the complete front wiring harness and the ECU.

I know the XT6 caliper bolts to the Impreza knuckle, I'm pretty sure the Legacy knuckle is pretty much the same. Fox, the turbo axles have 25 splines. The Impreza axles also has 25 spline, and I'm pretty sure that the Legacy does two. Not sure about the 2WD Legacy though.

300td4X4, no offense taken, but you don't have to tell me about the 914, I purchased one new in 1975 (probably the best body shape of all the years), I was also a memeber of PCA (Porsche Club of America) for many years and know how the Porschephiles thumbed their noses at the 914, but then I'd asked them to look at the first Porsche, a mid-engine using barrowed parts from the Volkwagon (which by the way was designed by Porsche, so technically it too is a Porsche), it is amazing how many of them changed their tune. I kind of wish that I hadn't sold it, because I think putting a WRX engine into a 914 would be a natural, since the EJ20G looks alot like the 2 liter quad cam that Porsche had. As for the tranny's, yes any EJ engined seires car tranny would work, but the EJ20Gs all used hydraulic clutches, in the USA only the EJ22T and some of the EJ25s (RSs and GTs) used them. You will have to match the rear diff ratio to the ratio of the tranny. The JDM Legacy EJ20Gs had tranny ratios of 4.111. I agree with Dennis, buying a front clip is the way to go, because you'll get just about everything you need, but is also more then twice the cost you stated for an engine. BTW, where is Pollock Pines??

Yes, I have two right now, one is just the engine, that one is out of a JDM Legacy and has either 200 or 220 hp, I need to could the blades on the turbo. The other is a 94 WRX STi front clip (version II), that includes the complete front wiring harness, the ECU, the front suspension engine and tranny. I have an ECU for a JDM EJ20G (that is want they are known as by Subaru, the 'T' is something engine importers put on the engine to show it is a turbo). Dennis, I believe the highest horse power of an EJ20G is 260hp, starting with the version IV, it is a different EJ20 series and that is rated at 280hp, other of the EJ20 series were rated up to 300 hp. You can either try to figure out the wiring of a stock ECU or purchase an aftermarket ECU, like a HalTec, at around $1400. Most people who install these are not the least concerned about fuel economy, so I doubt anyone with have any figures for you. I applaud your idea, but wonder how you are going to setup the front wheel drive part of this AWD Volvo? PS: I think I need to shot you for you Porsche conversion, how could you even think about putting a Ford engine into a Porsche.

I'm curious about why you want a lightened flywheel. If it is a road car I can see why, because the lightened flywheel allows you to rev the engine quicker. But if you are off roading the car, then you would want a heavier flywheel to keep the rotating engery higher.

That's way cool, I started that way. At 8, I was crawling under the cars with my dad, handing him tools and getting parts. At ten I rebuilt my first complete engine (I did everything, ever compressing the valve springs).

Billy, glad to see you back among the living (not that you weren't before, it just seemed that way to us). For me it is real easy, any decal that you find, no matter the quantity goes to me. Once I get a library of what is there, I'll keep one as a master and make the others available only to board members, all funds will be donated to the upkeep of the board. Thanks for making these available.

Guys, I'm not sure that you can compare the casting methods of the EJ series engines with the EA series engines. That's like comparing oranges and tangerines, both citrus, but have many different characteristics. Marnix was talking about EJ series engines and I don't think he intended to implie that the same held true for the EA series engines. I have worked on many EA series engines and all of them have been closed deck.

How about a white BRAT on a background of snow with bold white letter?

Glad to see that Brian is willing to travel clear across the country, I wish I could, but I need to save every peeny to build my garage this summer. Then I'll have a dry warm place, no matter what time of the year to work on cars. Glad to hear from you Billy, sorry to hear about the wife, I hope everything works out there. My offer to create a master file of decals for replication still stands, I think I have a lead on two or three places locally that can, and will replicate the decals as someone needs them.

Don't know where that list of engines came from but the engine codes are not correct, look at Marnix's list, those are the correct codes. I have a copy of the paper sitting on the floor next to my computer. I have been a memeber of SAE for almost 20 years. I find it interesting that the only picture of a block in the paper is one of an open deck block (page 5).

Just remember that he promised me all the decals so that I could maintain a file of masters to get them replicated. If there are any duplicates, I'd make them available for immediate sale. With the funds going back to the board (or the pool of contributors for the buy out).

Ed (beauregaardhooligan), that's too funny, I left GeoCity because they got bought out by Yahoo.

I'm using a XT6 flywheel and an EA82T clutch assy, works great.

Marnix came through with pics. Links: Closed Deck 1 Closed Deck 2 Closed Deck Head Open Deck 1 Open Deck 2

I have been driving my GL-10 Turbo Sedan with a 3.900 D/R tranny for almost 2 years now, the tranny is still like it was the day I put it in. I did change the rear diff you one out of teh Turbo Legacy, so I have a 3.900 VLSD rear diff. I believe the 4 speed autos came in late 88 and 89, but I don't believe they are switchable with the 3 speed. The 4 speed has a computer control, the 3 speed doesn't.

Mark, looks like it is already destine for the crusher, it is in a wrecking yard now, the guy only wants to know if anyone needs parts off of it.

Yea, I think Richie said it. I know a lot of the guys (and maybe gals) here are looking for that incredible deal, like my $70 RX that I drove home and it passed emmisions, it was that deal that made it possible to create UltimateRX. Most of the sells that I have made here on the board, I have lost money on, selling the part for less then it's worth. Sometime to help someone out, other times because I needed to get rid of what I was selling quickly and sold it at a loss. $1300 for an RX is not a bad price, I'm sure LegacyT up in Ottowa would be willing to pay that. If I was selling the car and someone offered me $800, I'd laugh at them and tell them to get the f@%k out of here. There are two books out there that are used to estimate car values, and it is amazing how much different the two books are on exactly the same car. If you are comfortable paying the asking price, then go for it, but don't insult that guy with a rediculous offer.

Marnix, I had heard that before, but had also heard that only the USDM EJ22 Turbo had them. It was hard for me to think that Subaru would only do that for one series of engines. Jon, because of the position of the left turbo and the brake boost on the USDM, the twin turbo will not easily install into an EA82 series car. Not saying it can't be done, just that there would be a LOT of modification that had to be done.

John, call me!!!! You've got the home phone, cell was e-mailed today.