azsubaru

I don't know if this fits your situation, but whenever I've had those symptoms, I had to benchbleed the master cylinder.

Thanks, Olnick! Now to figure out where to start!

Not really a newbie; I've been a member since 2005, but I haven't been active in a couple of years. I had a 91 FWD Loyale for 20 years; sadly gone to the big PAP in the sky now after it was rear ended on I-10 one evening. Raised my kids in that car; I sure miss it. But I just picked up a 96 Legacy L automatic w/170K for my daughter which has all the usual issues from lack of maintenance, so I figure on being around quite a bit now while I learn how to get it back into reliable condition. Can't wait to catch up on things!

Sorry for your loss. He was obviously a good man.

JMHO - based on my experience with that same symptom, keep that hammer handy. You'll need it more and more often until one day it won't work. Also keep an eye out for a fuel pump so you can change it out before that final day.

Just keep a spare coil handy. I had an 8140, mounted vertically, that lasted 6 months and died on the freeway during rush hour and 100+ heat. I put the original back in. It's now lasted 19 yrs, the Accel lasted .5 years.

Mine was free, and matches my interior perfectly. I made this in about 10 minutes one morning from the remains of a busted console, screwed down to the change holder. It works much better than you might think!

X2 - that should work for you

When mine did that, it was simply a loose belt. It would squeal, the compressor would kick out, and nothing blowing but hot air. I could sometimes get the compressor to stay engaged by turning the AC off and on. Put on a new belt and the problem went away.

and you are right - that's what counts at the end of the day!

I'm glad you fixed your TOD, but really, I don't see how you would fix TOD by pouring it directly in the throttle . That way, the Seafoam is going directly to the valves and the cylinder, and should get rid of carbon buildup, but that's about it. It's not going anywhere near the TOD problem area, which is the hydraulic lifters. You would need to pour it in the oil and run it awhile to get rid of the varnish buildup on the lifters. Can someone explain why I'm wrong?

Your symptoms sound to me like it's time for a new radiator. A dual core is better, but I put in an aftermarket single core about 3 years ago that works fine for me, even at 110+ degrees for days on end. I don't have many mountains to climb, though.

about those white and green plugs by the fuel filter: The white one is the Read Memory connector. Connect the white plugs, and any stored error codes will show up on the ECU. Green is the Test or Diagnostic (D) mode connector. With the green plug connected, the clicking is normal, it's the fuel injector clicking. One use is timing - connect the green plug before setting ignition timing... then forget you connected it, drive away, and the check engine light starts flashing 5 minutes later. To clear codes: With the ignition on, connect both the white and the green connectors. Drive til the check engine light blinks , then disconnect.

You guys are such wimps! Pliers/vicegrips don't have to make a mess. The phillips in a socket would probably work good, but if the screws are tight, it can be hard to get enough pressure on a right angle screwdriver.

You can easily remove those screws that you can't get to with a screwdriver by grabbing them with a pair of vice grips or pliers. I have a pair of needle-nose vice grips that are perfect for the job.