azsubaru

It's most likely the solenoid, because, as Northwet said, that's what the code is for. Replace it with a 68 ohm resistor. If that gets rid of the light, then it's definitely the solenod. The car will run fine if you leave the resistor in there. A replacement will cost you $60.00 at thepartsbin.com. Their part number is B7079-60044

A few observations: Keep in mind that it's technically illegal to discharge R12 into the atmosphere - depletes the ozone, they say. If it hits your skin, instant frostbite. be careful around this stuff. You may be able to sell the R12. Ask your local AC guy about the cost to remove R12 (that's how you're supposed to remove it anyhow) and what they might give you for any they remove. R12 is works better than R134A. So it should be colder if you fix and recharge the R12 vs converting. Whatever you decide, good luck!

No reason to worry about it. Most likely, if you have any problem at all, it will be the studs coming out when you remove the nuts, and it's not hard to get them back in. Don't overtighten, and it probably won't strip out. If it does, just tap it like General Disorder said to do.

Just my opinion - if you have the equipment, pull the engine first. But do all the other maintenance things once the engine is out, like timing belts, seals, etc. to make the most of it.

You're pretty close, not much holding the motor in there. Take the radiator out. The hardest part for me is lining the motor up with the transaxle when you put it back in, but even that isn't too difficult. I followed Miles Fox's directions. The man knows what he's talking about: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm Have fun!

At least on my SPFI EA82, there's a vacuum line that runs from the intake back to the passenger strut tower area. It's easy to knock loose, and the car won't idle if it's disconnected.

I ran a handyman business for a couple years out of my Loyale wagon. Intended to buy a pickup, but never needed it. 24 ft Ladder on the roof, everything else in the back. I once carried 6 sheets of drywall in it - it squatted down quite a bit, but handled fine.

Don't know if this applies to your GL, but my Honda Accord did EXACTLY that same thing when the speed sensor went out on it.

Here's a good way to test it, from Mark Humble: One tool you can make to help diagnose gauge problems is to buy two resistors, one 50 ohm and one 80 ohm, 1/4 watt. Connect one lead from each resistor together and attach a 12" black wire to this connection and solder them together. Then solder a red wire to the 50 ohm resistors other lead. Solder a blue wire to the 80 ohm resistor and attach alligator clips to the ends of each wire. To keep the resistors from getting damaged, put them in a short peice of PVC pipe and fill with silicon. Now you have a gauge tester that can be used on almost anything. To use, connect the black lead to ground and the blue to the sensor wire to be tested and turn on the ignition. The gauge should about 1/3 up the scale. If no reading, repeat the test at the gauge. This is done to check the wire between the gauge and the sending unit. If still no reading, use a volt meter or test light to check for power to the gauge, if there is power, but no reading, the gauge is bad. The red wire is used to water temp. Hook the blue wire up out at the sending unit, and if the guage works, you've narrowed it down to the sending unit.

I did it this way and it worked fine: (from Miles Fox's Site)http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineseal.htm <STRONG><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial">

Here's a comparison of adhesion, price, and some other aspects of some of the leading sound deadners in the U.S.: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I'm thinking of trying RAAMmat.

Yes - The covers just clip on the sides of the switches. You can pry them off with a small flatblade screwdriver, alternating sides on each button. If you do this without removing the switch from the dash, do it carefully. Then you can replace just the little pieces of plastic with the words on them.

Idle Air Control (valve) - on the front of the throttle body.

Yep - just to the passenger side of the power steering unit. Still on my Loyale.

If this is SPFI, you can get rid of the "long right hand turn syndrome" by building and installing a "condensator" for a few bucks. Here's a thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38290&highlight=condensator And, although I haven't tried this, Subaru used to sell (and may still) a "fix" for around $50 which basically replaces that little thin hose that runs to the back side of the intake snorkle with a regular-sized one, then plugs the little hole left in the snorkle. You could probalby do this with a couple T's, a plug, and a piece of heater hose to get the same result.

Good point - although it's rough on the paint! Over the years, this car has helped me move and live in Kentucky, West Virginia, and Lousiana, among others, but I've never had it where it's so cold you need to add Heet to the fuel and plug the car in at night to keep the oil warm. I'm sure it is quite different.

Sorry, not much help on the other questions - I use regular Castrol 10W 30 in my Loyale now. After trying lots of different brands in this car over the years, both Synthetic and regular, I believe there's nothing to be gained from using anything else. There are members here with over 300,000 miles on their motors, still using regular Castrol. On the other hand, despite all the concerns I see listed, I doubt you would really hurt anything (except your wallet) by trying the special formulas.

Idle switch adjustment maybe? Could be Coolant Temp Sensor or IAC, but it idles fast when cold, which sounds like the IAC is working.

Don't know about Code 12 - reset the codes and see if it goes away. Code 34 is almost always the EGR Solenoid. It's on top the engine, just to the passenger side of the throttle body. There are two solenoids in the same area, the EGR solenoid has a vacuum tube that goes out toward the rear of the engine to the EGR valve. You can check it by unplugging the solenoid and sticking a 68 ohm resister in the empty plug. If the code 34 goes away, then that's the problem. If you don't have to pass emissions, you can leave the resister in there (attach it securely, or course) and the car will run fine. go to www.thepartsbin.com and type in part number B7079-60044 for a picture of a simiilar solenoid. It's a purge valve solenoid, but looks the same and could probably be used in place of an EGR solenoid.

The code 34 if often caused by the EGR solenoid. You can easily check the solenoid by unplugging it and sticking an 68 ohm resistor in the socket. Clear the codes if necessary, and if the CEL goes out, you need a solenoid. They go out frequently.

They get dirty and you can often clean them without a whole lot of effort. Take the door panel off and you can remove the switch panel with a screwdriver. Then lay it on a towel or large cloth and take it apart. Be careful, there are lots of little parts in there that can fly off - that's why the towel. Then you can clean up the contacts. I use a pencil eraser to clean them. They seem to get dirty about every year or so. Put back to gether and it should be good to go.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35849&highlight=68+ohm+resistor

A reasonable price, but you can make your own out of spare parts. Check out this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38290&highlight=condensator I made one with a freebie IBM coffe mug, some standard heater hose, steel wool, and fittings.

No idea what it would cost to have it done. You need a mechanic who is familiar with Subarus, and that you can trust. Get a quote on cost to do it the same time as the cam seals. Maybe there's someone from your area here on the forum who could recommend a local mechanic or shop for you. But first, try to fix it on the cheap - add MMO or Seafoam (again), run 500 miles, change the oil and filter, Drive a thousand miles and repeat. If that doesn't quieten it down, then you may want to go further. Use 10W30 Castrol GX oil and continue to change it every 3000 miles or so.