azsubaru

Seems like the voltage would have to reverse polarity to go in the opposite direction. In other words, if the meter read positive12 Volts when moving, it should read negative 12 Volts when you push the switch into the other position. Does that happen? Also, sounds like you're reading at the switch. That checks out the switch but you need to check voltage at the motor to make sure it's getting over there.

Here's the thread - knew I had seen it on here somewhere:

I can't say I've seen that on a Subaru, but my Honda Accord did exactly that when the speed sensor went out. I was able to drive home as long as I kept the rpms down below 3K or so - which wasn't easy. Also, I read on this board that Sub distys can test good and still not work.

It's easy to make a miscalculation and CRACK! They don't bend worth a darn. It's just not worth it if you aren't experienced.

mmmmmmmm Krispy Kremes......

Well, it's nice to see that you aren't bitter or anything...

Careful around the distributor. I got mine wet once and it took 3 days to dry out. Of course it drys a heck of a lot faster if you know what it is and dry it out yourself.

I've seen lots of opinions on this, but not real evidence one way or the other. I've tried both and now use dino, for no real good reason. Blackstone Labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html) does oil analysis. They say "It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine...you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us. "

My voltage reg went out last week, so I thought I would try this on my 91 Loyale - it has AC. Unfortunately, the new alternator unit had a lot less space between the ears than the one in the pictures. I would have had to cut away about 3/8" on each ear! Took it back and compared to some others at the parts store; they were all the same. I don't really need the addtional power, so I just bought an OEM alternator and finished the job. Other than that problem, it looked like it should have fit in the space available, although it would be close.

BS. Turbone is right. My Loyale makes that sound whenever it gets a little low on coolant and air gets in there. When you add coolant, you can squeeze and release the upper radiator hose several times to sort of help pump the air out a little faster.

You might have to pry around somewhat agressively (but carefully) over there to pop it loose, but there's no hidden screw or anything. The farthest one to the right is the one under the rear washer switch.

A lot of opinions on here on how to use it, so here's here's mine - read the can and use it the way it says there. I've never heard of anyone experiencing problems after doing it that way, but I could be wrong - has anyone here had a bad experience with it?

Just bought my wife a 97 Corolla and joined the toyotanation.com site so I can fix it when needed. Those guys were bragging about a Corolla they "heard of" that got 206,000 miles on it. That was the highest I could find mentioned over there. Seems kind of low compared to some of the Subarus on this site. I thought Toyotas were built like tanks....

As an old frt myself, back in the 60's a mechanic showed me how they would clean sticking lifters, etc. by putting a solvent called Varsol in after draining the old oil. Idle for 5-10 minutes, drain and fill with new oil. I tried it in a 63 Ford. It worked, and Varsol is still around these days, but engines are a lot different.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm Good stuff.

Hoozie has it down on the dash screw locations. Mine has one more screw that's behind a little panel that just pops off - below and just to the left of the steering column.

My 91 Loyale has a vacuum connection just to the right of the gas pedal, halfway up the tunnel. When this thing gets disconnected by my big foot, air always comes out the vents. Heater, Defrost, everything shoots it straight out at me. You might check that. It's a black connector with two black vacuum tubes running through it.

I use the starter bumping method and it works ok for me. I learned this next method here on the board, and it works good for when you have to tighten it again, too. Feed a length of rope - maybe 6-10 feet or so - down into one of the cylinders. After that piston comes up, it will lock the engine. Make sure to leave a couple more feet sticking out so you don't lose it!

Another possibility - My 91 Loyale had those symptoms and it was the TPS. Is your CEL on, ECU showing codes?

Bet it's the battery.

I currently use cheap ones from Costco; seem to last as long as anything else.

What Subarian said! Couldn't think of the right word - pump, squeeze, massage, milk... Upper radiator hose - squeeze, release, repeat. Add coolant if necessary, repeat process.

My Loyale has done that when it got air in the lines. I get rid of it by adding coolant and "pumping" one of the hoses to get the air out.

Second the motion. The cheap ones squeal like a banshee!

I have bought both MMO and Seafoam at Autozone.