azsubaru

Just thought I would close this thread out. Miles Fox suggested taking the TPS off and cleaning it. I did that, spraying electronic cleaner in there while moving the rheostat back and forth. No change, but I started wondering, what will different positions cause? The idle switch wasn't working anyhow, so what the heck. I played around with it over the past week or so. Other than idle speed changing, there wasn't much difference that I could feel over the entire range. Yesterday I re-adjusted it according to specs, and the original problem is now gone! I figure that something inside got cleaned off, it just took a while. Thanks to everyone for their suggstions. - Saved some bucks!

Mine tics for a day or so every time it comes down off my 8" ramps- regardless of what, if anything, is done to it. 91 Loyale, 190, original oil pump, no rebuild.

You might make it. I downshifted my loyale to 3rd one day and the transmission locked up, lots of screeching tires, etc., and would only move in 5th. With lots of smoke, the smell of burned clutch, and some luck with the traffic lights, I got it home, about 20 miles, almost all flat ground. 4th should be a piece of cake! good luck to you if you try it.

Not exactly free, but individually not too expensive - I got noticable gains on my 91 Loyale with each of these: Clean it out - oil, carbon, and gas tank - with Sea Foam $5-$6 After market Coil - $40-50 Accel Plug Wires - $25-$35 Plus what was already said - NGK plugs, experiment with timing, rotor, etc.

I'm having AC problems, too, and recently went through the same troubleshooting that you are going through. On my 91 Loyale, there are two relays side by side back in that right strut area. They are identical, so you can easily switch them to troubleshoot. Very unlikely that both would be bad.

I've done it this way, too, and it worked fine. The other way seemed much more involved than nessary (laziness inspires creativity). What's the worst that can happen? -You accidentally move something or wipe off a mark, and then you can revert to the detailed instructions. I use white out and flick it off the belt when finished. I check the work by turning the crank after installing the belts to make sure things line up. So far no problems.

Have now checked throttle plate, connectors and harness, all are fine. I like the idea of picking up a used one. The car seems to run fine, so it can wait. I have a stock EA82, 2WD, 5SPD Manual

emailed milesfox - he was talking about the temp sensor. He also suggested cleaning the contacts, that didin't help. However, with the TPS misadjusted like it is now, the only noticeable symptom is a really poor idle when cold. I'm thinking I'll just leave it alone until I find a used one for a few bucks.

I don't see the button thing - is it on the throttle cable side of the throttle body?

17 buck? That sounds great! I'll email milesfox.

I dont think mine is working right, don't want to spend 300 bucks. Can they be repaired, or is it replace only? Here's the story: This is a 91 Loyale, SPFI. according to the codes, my throttle position sensor was stuck open. When I adjusted it according to specs yesterday, the old Loyale immediateley started idling and accelerating better, BUT the engine would cut out intermittantly, and then not kick back in until RPMs dropped below 1500. Kind of like the overrev protection on newer autos. Not much fun on the interstate! So I put it back in the original position and the problem went away. Do these things have replaceable parts, can they be cleaned, or am I stuck with buying a new one?

The window switches on my Loyale get dirty and quit working about once a year. Cleaning them isn't difficult and is worth trying first. After you get the switch out, make sure you've got a good clean spot to work before you take it apart - small pieces can disappear quickly, especially the multi-switch from the driver's door. I use electronic spray cleaner and a pencil eraser to clean the contacts.

I'm currently working on my own AC problem with my 91 Loyale. I haven't fixed it yet, but I've tracked the circuit partially. At least on my 91, there's a 15 amp fuse for the AC over on the top rear of the passenger side wheel well, and mounted in that same area, kind of tucked behind/under the same mount, are two relays. At least one of them turns the AC compressor on, and I'm not sure that both aren't involved in the whole circuit. The relays are identical, so you could switch the plugs on them to see if there's a change in the symptoms.

Thanks - excellent suggestion. I will try jumpering the relay and report back in a couple days when I get back in town.

Yes, there's voltage at the fuse, on both sides. I borrowed a Chiltons and found the wiring schematic. The circuit seems to go from the fuse, through a relay (mounted right there on the strut, too), and then to the compressor. I've now switched out the relay with no change. very puzzling.

Good idea - I did it myself by watching with the hood up. There's not even a twitch. This is a factory AC system. The blower fan works at all speeds. I have checked the fuse and it's good. I went ahead and chaanged it anyhow since I had an extra. Is there another AC fuse somewhere? I haven't checked them all, but the ones in the fuse box all seem to be working.

Yes, I have checked the fuse on the right strut. It's good. Is there another AC fuse on a Loyale?

How about a bad alternator or idler pulley bearing? My idler pully did something similar when it was going out.

Thanks for the input. After reading your post, I checked both the relay and all the fusible links and they're all good. I'm thinking there must be another fuse or a diode or something that blew out, but I can't follow the circuit to find where it's losing power.

I'm a new member with a 91 2WD Loyale Wagon that I've had since it was new. Driving down I-01 the other day, one of the bolts that holds the AC compressor down broke, and the compressor moved sideways, slamming into the power steering pulley and coming to a screeching halt. I've fixed the bolt, but - not surprisingly - the compressor wont kick in. I checked the fuse, I've got voltage there. Checked out at the compressor and there's no voltage at the connector. Does anyone have some advice on how to troubleshoot this thing?

I didn't know other people did this, but I put little whiteout marks on my belts and gears when I changed the belts. I had read all the instructions about lining up marks, turning the engine over, etc., but I thought you should be able to just mark all the gears and belts, transfer the belt marks to the new belts, line em up and put em on. It worked just fine.