azsubaru

Iis it possible that the parking light switch on top of the steering column was pushed? That'll run your battery down, and you might not notice it if you weren't out after dark.

I'm really surprised none of the engineer-types have been able to help you with this. Maybe my input will get their blood stirring I believe your engine needs to breathe, so connecting the heads directly together with no outlet would not be a good thing. I guess you could try it, connecting the hoses loosely, take a short drive and see if they blow off. In the old days, there was simply a 'breather pipe' that let the gases go out directly into the atmosphere. That caused lots of air pollution, so now we have the PCV valve.

a couple of ideas: 1) dirty idle air control valve 2) idle switch out of adjustment or bouncy. 3) see the 'Similar Thread's at the bottom of this page.

I've had several sheets of 4X8 sheetrock in the back of my Loyale. They stuck out the back a bit. Don't know about the Legacy, I think they may be a bit smaller.

That's a Loyale, pretty much the same as a GL or DL, They have an EA82, with SPFI. It should be pretty straightforward. Some searching on here should get you all the information you need. I've come close to putting a DR in my wagon a few times.

Anytime you deal with the public, you run into people like this. Ignore and block. Obviously he isn't a potential buyer, so don't waste your energy even thinking about him.

IMO - they put in a crappy axle. Take it back and have them replace it.

Fuel pump is in the rear. You failed to mention where it's coming from, makes it hard to help. GD may have your answer - does your seat belt chime when you turn the key on? Where exactly is this noise coming from in the dash?

yep, fuel pump. that's normal

I don't know for sure, but I bet it would work. Most - maybe all - bolt holes, etc. are still in the later models. I tried to just change just the inner (center) piece on my 91 Loyale, and the metal latch from the side wouldn't fit, so you'll need both pieces. The automatic inner belt section attaches to the seat mount, while the manual attaches to the floorboard.

91 2WD 5 Spd SPFI Loyale about 31 mpg on the highway 28 mpg average for my weekly commute

I would try taking it for a 20 minute spin, and don't be too easy on it. It could be blockage or maybe the oil pump/seal, but I usually have to take a drive to get them to pump back up, reving the engine up quite a bit more than 2800.

Could be that you just need a thermostat, but it also could be the radiator is getting old and clogged.

what he said - sounds like the timing belt tensioner bearing.

IIRC, after you align the timing belts to the 3 marks, do another rotation cycle, then rotate the crank further until the 0 deg lines up, then install the distributor pointing to #1.

use a good Fel-Pro head gasket and no sealer

Do what you have to do. You can get away with just the mickey mouse gasket, but you may still have leaks, and have to take it all back out before very long. tip from grossgary (search "oil pump"+sealant): Use anaerobic sealant or RTV very lightly at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, where the pump meets the engine block, just where the two halves of the engine block come together. Also check out Miles Fox's Oil Pump repair info at http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

A bit off-subject, but speaking of Shucks, CSK Auto (Checker, Shucks, Kragen, and Murray) is being bought by O'Reilly Automotive. O'Reilly says they will change the stores to match O'Reilly's. I don't know about O'Reilly, but they can't be any worse than CSK.

Do you feel comfortable taking the distributor out - that you can get it back in and timed correctly? If you do, take the distributor down to the parts store and try the rotor and cap on it right there in the store. You can spin it carefully by hand to make sure everything' working right without damaging anything.

1) Castrol GTX 2) I wouldn't do it to save 2 bucks, either.

I saw that, but you won't really need it - if you pull the engine, the clutch is right there in front of you. If you prefer dropping the tranny, that will work, too. If you have a transmission jack or something to help hold it and line it up, it shouldn't be too difficult. Just speaking for myself, I hate wrestling a heavy transmission from beneath a car.

If you have or can get a hoist, you might consider removing the engine instead, and leave the tranny in the car. It seems easier to me, especially if you are working alone - a lot less time working on your back. It gives you a chance to seal things up on the engine, too. Miles Fox shows you how to do it: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/engineremoval.htm Check out the "Similar Threads" at the bottom of this page for some ideas.

Just another couple items that can cause that - 1) loose hub nut 2) the washer under the hub nut either worn or installed backwards

I thought the breather fix was only for smoking on long RIGHT hand turns...? so Cracker may be on the mark with checking the PCV valve. Anyhow, here's a thread that goes through the breather retrofit, even has pictures and the part number of the kit. I had to do this on my 91 Loyale, so your 90 will probably need it, too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16162 You can make your own with heater hose and a few fittings, though.

"If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line" http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm