azsubaru

I've thought about that, too!

That's what I'm talkin about - Thanks for some great ideas! CRC, lean it out, and I'll make sure to get a new gas cap, I've failed that one before with other cars. We get a free re-test within 30 days if we bring sales receipts, etc. of repairs made, but I'm hoping to avoid that.

bump - come on, no one has an opinion? What's the best way to prepare for emissions?

I can't get the Code 34 and 35 off in my Loyale - it's not the solenoids, doesn't seem to be the wiring, so may be an ECU problem. I don't have one and I need to get this thing licensed and on the road. The car runs really well, and a Check Engine Light in a car this old does not cause your car to fail here in AZ. Got a fresh tuneup, oil, new rear cat and muffler, and some RXP in the tank. So, the question is, what are the odds that it might pass emissions - one in a million? 50-50? What do you think? Thanks

Sounds like a good process. where are the pictures?

Jebus! didn't bgd73 make that same claim? who would've guessed it?

I've always had good luck with them, but have heard of some issues like yours. Are they going to take care of you, or are they giving you any grief about making things right?

and another source - Both can be found here: http://www.economysuperstar.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

MAybe this will help. I've seen a Subaru FSB about it in Mitchell's Online database. CYLINDER HEAD CRACKS Cylinder Head Cracks On 1985-92 Subaru 1.8L OHC & OHV Engines AERA members have reported cracked cylinder heads on 1985-92 Subaru1.8L OHC and OHV engines. These cracks occur in the combustion chamber ofthe head between the valve seat inserts (see illustration). The cause of these cracks is usually related to an overheated engine.It has been determined by Subaru that this crack does not leak coolant into the chamber and the cylinder heads should not be replaced. Extensive testing indicates that under pressure testing, the heads do not leak unless the cracks are termed extensive Pressure testing is still advised to assure your customer of the heads integrity. Checking both valve seats for looseness is also necessary as insufficient press fit may allow the seat to move during engine operation.A modification to that area of the casting was made during 1991 production to chamfer and increase the distance between the valve seats. That change has reduced the number of heads that crack.Some AERA machine shops remove the valve seats, weld the cracked area and reinstall valve seats to give the head a more acceptable cosmetic appearance. The AERA Technical CommitteeJanuary 1996 - TB 1300

The crack on both heads is down inside the # 1 exhaust port, between the exhaust and intake valves. It doesn't go all the way through to the intake port, but leaks up past the valve seats. Symptom - a regular miss on that cylinder after the engine came up to normal temperature.

I've got two non turbo EA82 Heads with cracks in the exhaust ports of number 1 cylinder.

I think you're right not to worry about it, but I've got my engine out right now and one of the things I'm doing is putting in new clutch parts, so I can see exactly what you're talking about. The 0 on the flywheel - at least on mine - is on the side, very close to the teeth, and about opposite the three timing lines. The one on the pressure plate is in a very similary spot, stamped into the metal.

clockwise to advance.

You may be able to fix it your self. Look at the PC board, at all the little solder joints. Most likely you'll see one or two that are discolored, or rough looking, or maybe you'll even see where the wire is loose from the actual solder. Resolder it with a low wattage soldering iron, or find a friend who knows how to do this kind of thing, and that may be all you need. Good luck!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

Yep, you have to open it up to get to it. I had the same problem, and after looking through my manuals decided it was way too much work and just replaced the whole tranny At least for me, disassembling/reassembling transmissions is not what I would call an easy job.

I cut new threads with a spark plug re-threader, thanks to the advice of Northwet here on the board. It worked pretty good, but I still had to drop the exhaust to do it, so I wasted a lot of time on that project. Spray a lot of liquid wrench or something like that on the exhaust studs and let it sit as long as you can. If you don't get too agressive, you should be able to get them off ok. You can most likely re-use the exhuast gaskets if they aren't leaking now. No need to add anything, just put em on dry. If you do get new gaskets, by the OEM (manufacturer) brand. The after market ones are usually poorly made and won't last long. You shouldn't need anything on the flange, either, it's designed to move around a bit.

First, check out the "Similar Threads" in the lower right hand corner of the screen. You should get some good info there. You need a sensor socket - rent one from Autozone, about 15 bucks, then take it back when you're finished and they'll refund your money. And you really should drop the exhaust. It's only the 4 nuts on the heads, then pull it down, and it becomes an easy job. I have done it without dropping the exhaust, but you run a big risk of stripping the threads in the converter. I've done that, too.

It definitely works in a pinch. I can remember my dad using this trick back in the 50's, then later doing a permanent fix with solder.

I've bought a few things from them. No problems, good quality products and they shipped farily quickly.

I'm not too good with the search engine, but it had something to do with the fact that the intake is only 1" or so in diameter, so opening up the box isn't going to change that - unless you use a Turbo or something of the sort to jam more air through it. Probably was posted by NorthWet or GeneralDisorder, but I don't remember. I tired it myself by the way, and thought at first that there was more power. But after running it that way awhile, I changed it back. No power gain that I could prove, and I was wasting gas by punching it so I could hear the WAAH sound.

Good luck to you on this one... Do a search and you'll see how the engineers on this board have pretty much beaten up anyone who even suggested that drilling holes or cutting out the bottom of the box can do more than change the sound. They have all the math, to prove it, too.

My 91 Loyale exhaust has been helicoiled for about a year on one head, and it's working fine. The size was 10M X 1.25 It was pretty easy, but I was cautioned not to drill too deep.

Assuming the other ideas aren't working, make sure you do go under the hood and check the top of the strut. Don't forget to check the center nut on top of the strut. Pop the little black rubber plug out and make sure it's (the nut, not the plug) tight. If it's loose, it can sound a lot like what you describe.

Codes here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918