azsubaru

Looks good. What's that headliner - carpeting?

If you want to save the covers, you should be able to get them off by sliding a chisel or flat blade screwdriver between the front and rear covers, then pry while turning the bolt. Either the bolt will come out like it should or (more likely) the entire thing will come out.

What Syonyk said. It's most likely a clogged radiator.

Here's some cheap things to try.: the 34 is EGR solenoid. You can 'fix' it with a 68 ohm resistor. Here's a thread about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60593&highlight=egr+valve The 24 is Idle Air control Valve. Ususally if it's not working, the car will have idling problems when it's cold. the code may not even show up if you start the car after it has warmed up. You may be able to take it off the throttle body, clean it out, and get it working again. That worked for me. Or it may be that the connectors are corroded. Disconnect and clean em up. Tha leaves the code 14. I would try disconnecting it and cleaning the connectors first. You can also chekc it with an ohm meter. Disconnect the injector and measure the resistnace across the temrinals (of the injector, not the harness). It should re between 0.5 and 2 Ohms.

Never seen that one - would assume the injector needs cleaned or something along those lines. I may have one if you need it. Have you tried resetting the ECU to see if it comes up again? What are the symptoms beyond the code showing up?

Yep, that's it. Just loosen the idler. It's easier if you move the alternator back out of the way first.

Bought my Loyale wagon new in 1991 so my wife could haul little kids and groceries. I pretty much ignored it, took it for granted for years. Then one day I realized it had not only done those things, but had also moved my family across country several times, driven mountains and deserts, backroads, creeks and and trails in West Virginia, Arizona, and Louisiana, and handled well while driving in some really severe weather - all without ever once letting me down. And it was surprisingly comfortable for a 6 footer like me to drive on those long trips, too. (I also looked around about that time and realized my daughters were suddenly bigger than their mom - when did that happen?!) In 2002 I was suddenly unemployed, so I started a handyman business and ran it out of the Loyale for a couple years. Friends said I should get a pickup, but I never needed one - even hauled sheetrock in it. I went back to the regular work grind in 2004, and simply cleaned it out and now use it as my daily driver/hobby. The interior still looks excellent and there's NO rust. I'm envious of you guys with the great looking paint jobs. The AZ sun has cooked my exterior, but if I can figure out how to get it repainted properly, I'll do that and keep it another 16 years. Loyale - I think it was named right.

Could be the clutch cable stretching, like subeman suggested, but if it looks ok, you've got a warrantee - take it back in and have them fix it. SOMEthing's wrong, and it's most likely something they did.

My 91 Loyale seats lock on both sides, but I have heard that not all Loyale seats are the same.

It's on top the engine, just to the passenger side of the throttle body, and under the big black intake nozzle. There are two there - one for the EGR and one for the purge. Usually, the purge solenoid has a black connector on it, the EGR solenoid a white one. Confirm you have the right one by tracing the vacuum hose that comes to it from the purge canister (the large black cylindrical thing located in the front corner of the engine compartment on the passenger side).

That solenoid is darned expensive - $177 at thepartsbin.com. Check yours out first by unplugging the purge solenoid and replacing it with a 68 ohm resistor plugged across the electrical connector. This fools the ECU into thinking the solenoid is still there and working correctly. If your code 35 goes away, then you can either leave the resistor in, or replace the solenoid. You can use a Toyota solenoid - there's a thread on here somewhere with instructions on how to do it.

Your car doesn't necessarily NEED a condensator, but it can clean things up a little. The idea is to slow down the vapors enough to cool them off and keep them out of your intake. You put some steel wool or silica or whatever in the can to give the vapors something to stick to. Does it really help anything? Lots of opionions on that. I put one on my Loyale, built out of spare heater hose and an IBM travel coffee cup that I got for free. It caught a bunch of nasty stuff and also cured the "long right hand turn syndrome." If you don't know what that is, in some EA82's, if you go around a long right hand turn, the car smokes and runs rough as it sucks up some gunk through the PVC system. There's an easier way to fix this, though, without building the condensator.

You can test your guage by making a simple tester for couple bucks. It works for the temp guage,too: <quote> (from Mark Humble) One tool you can make to help diagnose gauge problems is to buy two resistors, one 50 ohm and one 80 ohm, 1/4 watt. Connect one lead from each resistor together and attach a 12" black wire to this connection and solder them together. Then solder a red wire to the 50 ohm resistors other lead. Solder a blue wire to the 80 ohm resistor and attach alligator clips to the ends of each wire. To keep the resistors from getting damaged, put them in a short peice of PVC pipe and fill with silicon. Now you have a gauge tester that can be used on almost anything. To use, connect the black lead to ground and the red to the temp sensor wire and turn on the ignition. The gauge should about 1/3 up the scale. (Note:The Red Wire Is For Temp Only) If no reading, repeat the test at the gauge. This is done to check the wire between the gauge and the sending unit. If still no reading, use a volt meter or test light to check for power to the gauge, if there is power, but no reading, the gauge is bad. The blue wire is used to check pressure and level doing the same as above.<end quote>

not to hijack the thread, but I remember the 265 well. Do you remember the Bon Ami trick?

My 91 Loyale's left front shaft and joint are original and still working fine, although the boot recently split, so it may not last much longer. The right one has been replaced several times.

http://www.powerflowracing.com/spectre-home.asp He just missed a 'w'

Don't know this for sure, but I read in a recent thread that the Purge solenoid works backwards from the EGR solenoid (one opens on power while the other one closes). Don't know why the ECU would know the difference, though. Why not just stick a 68 ohm resister on it?

Well, that's the right box. Make sure you turn the ignition on before checking for the light.

The little light that blinks is up under your dash. Pull the panel under the steering wheel and look up and slightly to the passenger side of the wheel. You'll see a box about the size of a car radio, and there will be a small light blinking on the front of it.

I just tried a spray can of "Meguiar's Exterior Trim Detailer" It's for non-painted plastic surface and looks good, but like everything else, needs to be reapplied after awhile.

It won't hurt it to drive it that way, but it can get pretty aggravating. No reason to open it up and replace the lifters though, just beacuse of the TOD. Try the MMO. It's cheap and despite the concerns I see here, I haven't heard of anyone actually having problems after using it. Has anybody here ever had MMO cause problems?

Sure sounds like the TOD. It will probably get better the more you drive it, but you can pour about a third of a can or Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase to help clean out the lifters.

This is most likely the starter solenoid clicking, caused by a discharged battery. Could be the starter, the battery, or as previously said, something else draining the battery. Check the connections at the battery and also at the starter. The starter is on the left (driver's) side, rear of the engine/front of the transaxle. there's a large cable connected to it, make sure it isn't loose or corroded.

So I tried this to see for myself (easy to switch back if I don't like it). And here's what I experienced. More bottom end torque and a better throttle response from just about any speed. Feels like it's going to take off really fast. But, after that, it's pretty much the same, except for the sound. It's disappointing how slow it picks up speed after that nice inital kick. It actually feels even slower than it used to be, but I think that's because the sound and the feel of the torque makes me expect something better. So I would have to agree with those who say it's mostly an illusion. However, it probably helps as part of a bigger intake/exhaust mod project.