azsubaru

very nice - wish mine looked that good!

Sorry, I'm not much help on this, but if I remember right, the switch has some limited adjustment by moving the latch. I'd just disconnect it if it's too much of a pain. For the bumper, I'm still no help, never had to check mine. Don't think it can be reset, though. You'll probably have to replace it.

Try the old dollar bill test - start the car, and while it's idling, hold a dollar bill just behind the exhaust, partially covering the exhaust. If you cover the entire exhaust, this may not work. The bill will flap around in the exhaust stream, but if you see it get sucked into the exhaust during the missing, then you've most likely got a burnt valve. If it is a valve, and if you have the patience, some tools, and either skill or determination, you can pull the engine, remove the heads, take them in to a shop for a valve job - maybe 100 -150 bucks - then reinstall everything. Total cost - $250 or so. Be forewarned, though, that this type of project tends to grow much bigger than you plan.

PITA - but a valuable lesson, easily worth the 15 bucks!

I had an Accel 8140. It was a real POS, couldn't recommend it at all. I recently obtained a used Accel Super Coil, model 140001, one of the big ones, and it is working fine so far. You can get external resistors from Accel to make it work properly. There's a pdf instruction file here: http://go.mrgasket.com/InstructionSheetsList.aspx?BrandID=3 In fact, the coil will work if you just replace the stock coil, but that is supposed to be hard on the transistor, so not recommended.

Great story! Can you elaborate a little on which hacks you credit for the performance?

+1 for the disty - if it's bad or even just wet, it can cause these symptoms.

Unless it's been changed out, it's fuel injected. Pumping the gas to prime it won't really work, but you can pump it while cranking to help it start with enough rpms to keep running. I don't think it's going to hurt anything. Does it idle after it warms up? If so, it may be the idle air control valve, the idle switch adjustment, or the coolant sensor as waimaks suggested. If not, there's a vacuum hose that runs from the purge control solenoid back to the passenger strut tower that can easily get knocked loose, or you may need to adjust the throttle position sensor and idle switch.

I think you'll find some disagreement on this, but I don't think you will notice anything at all if you just plug off the EGR valve. I haven't noticed any difference after about a year with mine blocked. Had the purge disconnected for a while, also didn't notice any difference in power or gas mileage. Can't really help with the IAC valve, but I don't know why it would matter as long as it it fits.

It's worth checking the battery first - it would be a shame if this was all because of a bad one. If you can recharge it, let it sit for a couple hours disconnected, then check the voltage, compare with this chart that I borrowed from some battery company: Open Circuit Approximate Battery Voltage State-of-charge 12.65+ 100% 12.45 75% 12.24 50% 12.06 25% 11.89 0% Anything under 75% charge indicates the battery should probably be replaced. This is a no-load test, so it's not 100% proof of a good battery, but is a good easy test.

If they haven't been leaking, you can re use them. Be careful not to over-tighten, those aluminum heads can strip out before you know it. Oh, if you decide to get new ones, get OEM if possible - some of the others are almost worthless.

Probably the starter or solenoid but could be a bad connection, so don't overlook that. You should be able to find a good used starter for 50 bucks or less.

The easiest way is to take the exhaust loose at the heads. Just 4 bolts, and then you can pull it down where it's easy to get to.

Yep - lefty loosey, righty tighty. not reversed

Had a mechanic tell me that I had a rod knocking. Turned out to be the timing belt idlers. I tried grossgary's grease gun trick http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49443&highlight=grease+gun as a temporary fix, and it's been running for a couple months now, still quiet.

Replace the engine. It's not too difficult, and a lot faster than rebuilding the old one. Adding Turbo will increase the difficulty level.

First Choice - stock Second Choice - Number 6

I learned basically the same trick, except we used Varsol - a cleaning agent similar to Kerosene but less flammable; I think it's still available. The method I was taught was to drain the oil, fill it up with Varsol, idle for 5 minutes, drain and fill with fresh oil. It would clean out all the gunk inside the engine. I particularly remember getting hydraulic valves in my 63 Ford to quit tickling. I suspect there were some negatives from it, but I never experienced any problems. Using Seafoam or MMO in the oil to cure the TOD seems to be a less drastic way to do the same thing.

Yes! No - not correct. Forget all about the valve - just buy the EGR Solenoid, and replace it. again the part number is B7079-60044 at thepartsbin, if you want a new one. They just made a mistake in the description. The other replacement options you see here will all work too, and a lot cheaper - just find a similar one and replace it. good luck!

Short term, probably ok to run it with one belt. Long term, put the second one on, too. The biggest strain is when the AC kicks in. This puts a lot of strain on the belt(s) and with only one, before too long, the belt will probably start slipping qand squealing whenever the AC compressor kicks in.

Easy - you pull the head.

Here's a great resource that apparently isn't very well known. Go to your library and ask if they subscribe to Mitchell On Demand. This is a database that will give you the procedures to do just about anything you want to try, for just about any vehicle you can name. If you print out anything there's usually a charge on a per page basis, but most libraries will let you access it there in the library for free.

To tighten the crankshaft pulley, you'll need to keep the engine from turning. (You have to get it TIGHT). An easy way to do it is to remove a spark plug and run about 10 ft of an 11 ft rope down in the cylinder. This will hold the engine without harming anything. When you tighten the bolt, the engine will turn a little until the rope keeps it from moving further, then it's locked. Then tighten the heck out of the pully bolt, remove the rope, replace the plug, and you're ready to go.

The parts guys is sort of correct. The description is incorrect at thepartsbin, but check the Product Notes in the description for B7079-60044 - it says "for EGR valve" The Actual Purge Valve is part number B7079-121116 They are basically the same thing, anyhow. Purge Valve has a black connector, EGR valve has a white one, but if you hook them up, either would work. All they do is open and close. The 68 ohm reisistor (or any similar sized resistor) will do that. No CEL; it will run fine. To make it permanent, cut off the plug from the old valve, solder in the resistor, and plug it back into the harness.

Definitely may be thermostat. I took my electric fan completely out a year or so ago, it's still out, and it makes no noticable difference unless the AC is on (I don't use the AC, so no problem). and this is Phoenix, 109 today. If I remember correctly, when you turn the AC on, the electric fan circuit is completed, and it should start up.