wagonist

I've got EJ backing plates, but no L series versions. Having some troubles lining up holes after taking my measurements... My aim was to make a template for people to properly align the holes, etc. But I think it might be better doing it off the car directly.

maybe 57539

No, these are flat pins.

I started a new job this week & have access to Autocad. I did some work today measuring up the backing plate adaptors I have & trying to reproduce them. Need to lay out the printed drawing on the EJ & L backing plates to check for accuracy. Anyone got access to a 3D printer to make some plastic templates as mounting jigs for aligning the holes?

so your 5Mt (3.7) ratio must've been a full-time 4wd also, because that won't fit into a part time 4wd box. It's too long

Do you have any more sets being sent to Aus? I know someone who might want a pair.

Actually, the rear case isn't the same between the 2. The single range box doesn't have the hole drilled for the low range shaft to come out the front (and it's a bastard to do as I've looked into converted a single range with centre diff lock into dual range). But like WoodsWagon said, so long as the front diff ratios are the same between the 2 boxes, you'll be able to put the single range diff plus pinion & shaft into the dual range box (assuming it's a part time 4wd box & not the full-time 4wd with locking mech) Bascially, keep as much of your dual range as possible & just swap the broken bits only

I'm making a patch loom to install a Spider manifold XT engine into my turbo wagon. I've traced all of the pins on the 2 loom plugs & there's only some minor changes. Problem is that the spare engine loom I'm using as an extension is from an NA. It uses all 16 pins on the black plug like the turbo, but only 11 of 16 on the white instead of 12. Therefore, I'm one pin short on the engine side of the loom. Does anyone have a spare loom they'd pull a wire out of, or know where I could buy these pins? Thanks in advance.

You thought about getting the non insulated spade terminals like normally plug into a relay and cutting off the male/female terminal & just using the crimp part? That'd look pretty identical to what the factory uses. Cover with heatshrink/tape & you're done.

I'm a bit surprised the fronts changed, but did they use different wheels from 4wd to FWD? Different offset wheels will cause the track to change. The FWD rear end is quite different to the 4wd with a solid hub and bearing like a trailer. Subaru could've changed it for a handling benefit (most FWD have a narrower rear track than front)

So, if you disconnect the plug at the brake switch and leave the car sit, doe it still pop the fuse? If so, then the problem is somewhere between the fusebox & the brake switch, not the switch or anything further down. I haven't worked on an 83, but did some fuse box changed on an 85, and can confirm that you can pull the pins out, but they're a right bugger, and almost impossible whilst it's still in the car. It's also prob a 2 person job. I discovered how by going to the wreckers and literally smashing apart a fusebox to look how the pins clipped in.

If you can change the rear arms, that would be better as they have extra brackets for holding on the brake lines. The hard line attached to the arms changes to a flexible line from the arms to the calipers. They stay as hard lines on the drum brakes. if you change the arms, you can also add a rear anti-roll bar if you wish. Drum brake rear end doesn't have the brackets for those either.

I think most people mod the rods between the gearbox & shifters, so don't have this issue. If you've still got the originals, that'd be a better way to go.

I'm not sure about the series 2 green dashes (I've only just mine recently & it's working fine), but for the series 1, the sender in the tank is different to the analogue gauge. try to find out of 88- XT

I'm waiting for some european member to chime in and wonder what all this stupid talk about 106 being so fast... There are a number of places in Europe, where despite the speed limit being 130 (km/h for those who can't figure it out), that if you're in the fast lane and not doing at least 160, then you will get others tooting at you to move over. I dunno why US highways are so slow limited. Mostly you're on dual carriageways with limited entry/exits. Try coming down under where the majority of our national highway is single lane, undivided & with a 100 - 110km/h speed limit.

Same body style in 3 door? Then yes, they are the same. RX is just the engine/trans/interior/paint spec

most EJ D/R have the EA82 RX low range, not the NA version. A couple of the early Foresters (and some limited edition Imprezas of the same age) had a shorter low range (I don't think its the same ratio as the NA EA82). But these are extremely rare & hard to find even here.

I can't answer your question, but your issue isn't related to the dual range swap, but that you've done a 5 spd swap (all of the Gen 3 5 spds have the same clutch fork setup regardless of how their driveline is configured). So you might want to change your title to get the right people checking your thread suggest also doing a search for 4spd - 5 spd swap or some such. Lots of others have done it before you

For those with RHD cars, the power windows stuff is still on the right side of the car, ie under the driver's seat.

Why do you say there'd be nothing to gain? If not, why did all the manufacturers do it? I reckon there'd be a gain in stop/start traffic & in hilly terrain. Not all of us live in countries where fuel is almost cheaper than water Whether the cost of doing the change is worth it vs the saved fuel is another question entirely...

how about you ask Dfoyl that question instead of hypothesizing... There's a thread on here about it & how much he was offering them for.

As per the title, and I mean that the torque converter locks up in every gear rather than just 4th. So the engine will rev up more like a manual instead of slipping as you accelerate & then the gearbox plays catch up. And if so, can the later torque converters fit into an 89 Loyale type 4EAT?

You can't do a 5 stud conversion by swapping the entire suspension without a lot of fab work. dfoyl on here had some custom hubs made up that fits our cars which are a copy of the XT6 hubs. Swap the diff over to your EJ type. Try to find the stub axles from a Gen 1 Legacy rear diff. Not sure if they fit the R180, as I've only ever done it with an R160, this allows you to retain your original driveshafts with the EJ diff. Fit the 5 stud hubs & EJ backing plate (this is a bit of fiddling).

Despite the ECU not being able to check whether anything is attached, there are wires in the loom "telling" the ECU that it's connected to an auto. So when it doesn't get the correct signals, it throws the CEL. Maybe this applies whether it's connected to a 3AT or 4EAT, but I'd be surprised if the series 2 (87.5 -) turbos had anything but the 4EAT attached. I'll check the pins like you've said. Can you tell me which way the pins are numbered so I'm checking the correct wires?

sorry skishop69, I've got a separate TCU for the auto trans. All of the EA82's do. I thought it wasn't til much later that the ECU also controls the trans. Does this change anything you've posted? Awesome bit of info BTW Are you able to scan the schematic & post it up?