wagonist

But on the first pic, the shaft in the top left is cut into 2, and an extra shaft is beside it. There is a gear at each end of the 2nd shaft, plus corresponding gears on the main shafts. in high range, the synchro locks the 2 shafts together, in low range, that synchro unlocks, and a synchro on the 2nd shaft locks so it uses the gears & therefore the 2 input shafts will spin at different speeds. for the centre diff, it's like a normal diff in that it has pinion gears inside, but on the outside, the crown wheel & pinion are in line, instead of being at 90 degrees. There is a dog tooth sleeve on the outside of this diff, so when locked, it locks the 2 output shafts together.

You've posted pics of a part time 4wd, single range box

Did you check the fuse? Once you take the door trim off, it'll be mounted to the inside of the door skin below the lock. Should have 4 wires hanging off it.

Have you thought about getting the locks redone... If you take them all out & give to a locksmith, wouldn't be that expensive.

You're going to need the complete input shaft (2 pieces) plus the side shaft for the low range. I'm not 100% sure if you need the output shaft as well to match up the gear ratios. 1st & 2nd are part of the input shaft itself due to their small size, so you may need to swap 1st & 2nd off the output shaft to match them up if those ratios are different. 3rd, 4th, 5th you can swap off your RX input shaft. do some searching for the ratios first.

Compressor will fit fine under the hood. You'll have to get a hydraulic shop to modify the rubber lines that go to the compressor to fit the EJ ends. also, if you've got the factory A/C setup for the loyale that has a sensor hanging over the front to check it's spinning, you'll need to rig up that plus the 3 arms it reads from. The system won't work without it. Some of the A/C systems don't have this sensor, if so, then you'll be sweet.

You used the key in the driver's door & all the doors locked? If so, the power locks are working fine, the signal to lock the other doors comes from the driver's door being locked. you need to check the linkages between the lock button & lock inside your driver's door. They're prob worn out & gotten loose so the linkages aren't pushing onto the lock properly. And did your computer have a repeat attack? Why the 7 repeated threads?

It's been done in RHD cars before, but you do need the full engine wiring harness plus the factory ECU. The staging of the turbos is beyond the control of most aftermarket ECUs. What gets in the way that it doesn't fit in a LHD? Don't forget that the right side turbo is still there for RHD models, and we do just fine. Maybe some work on the pipes to and from the left side turbo might be needed, but that's usually not that difficult. Being an auto, you'll get away with not having to convert the clutch to hydraulic. You're probably better off buying a Legacy of the same age and transplanting. But I'd be trying to figure out the engine problem first.

If the dual range trans is part time 4wd, then if you get the front uni cut off a tailshaft, you could cable tie that to back of the trannie to get you out of trouble. Just make sure that you don't touch the 2nd lever The centre bearing mount is 2 quite complicated pieces of steel spot welded into place. Better if you can cut them out of a wreck, but otherwise you could make up some metal plates (inside & outside the car) and sandwich the floor skin.

I've installed a trans by myself using a trolley jack & 2 scissor jacks. Fiddly though. Better if you can pull the motor & attach them whilst outside. If you've got the transmission mounted & the rear diff, then bolt the mount to the centre of the tailshaft & put it up into place. Quickly put some tack welds up, then unbolt the tailshaft & weld it in properly. Don't forget to remove the front seats & lift the carpet otherwise the interior will get toasty... I also drove the car up onto a log on one side to tip it enough to crawl under for better access for welding.

What, did I frighten everyone off with this awesome wagon?

The contacts in the switch get dirty over time. They simply need to be cleaned with an eraser... You're correct, none of the other switch will work without the master switch. It's nothing to do with the child lock, but how the circuit operates. I would suggest pulling the door trims off, unplugging the window motors & connecting them to a battery directly to test if they work. After that, get a replacement master switch from the wreckers. You don't need to match the colour if you've still got the surround.

Daryl, From reading your post, it seems that you're trying to get a MPFI engine to work. This thread was about the SPFI that wasn't available in Aus, so you might be better off starting a new thread, or looking on some local forums. How much of the harness do you have currently? The MPFI cars have a different body loom, but only available for 2 years on the Leone, and longer for the XT/Vortex. FYI, the early Vortex (which black ECU) has a separate EFI loom (plus a few extra wires like wipers) which plugs into the rest of the harness (I'm not sure about the later models with gold ECU). My suggestion would be to try to find a wreck of one of those. The harness will need to be severely shortened as the ECU is mounted under the rear parcel shelf, but that's an easy job of cutting & resoldering.

pics attached (don't worry about the RHD version, the low range lever is still in the same place for LHD)

When changing the fluid, I try to suck as much as I can out of the master cylinder first. Less cross contamination & less pumping needed to get the new fluid all the way to the back. And always did the whole furthest first, which means on modern cars looking where the ABS controller is. My Toyota has it on the left side of the firewall (where the master would be for a LHD car), so I do right rear, then left rear, right front, left front with it. I suspect the difference for Subaru might be the hill holder, which interrupts one of the circuits (never really liked diagonal circuits, they're a pain off road) and also trying to brake with one circuit in the rain... what were they thinking but it's weird it says left front before left rear, unless they want you to make sure there's fluid in the hill holder before you go too far?

I'd be getting a pic. That sounds like the column adjusting lever, there is 2 of them. One underneath for the overall adjustment, and the other is a quick release that springs the wheel to the highest position to make it easier to exit. If there isn't a button in the middle of the shifter, and not a 2nd lever, then I'd bet its only a 2wd model.

Interesting. I hate when they can't be bothered putting up proper pics of the product, but just some generic one. Maybe contact them asking for pics of the specific one?

Yep, definitely the uni joints in the steering column. Went through this issue 15 years ago with people saying many things. RHD Turbo cars suffer this really badly because the joint is right next to the turbo. To test, just undo the bolts & slide one end of. You'll see it'll flop one way, but not another. Pity you just got rid of the other shell, could've used that one as a replacement ...

Didn't do anything to mine, but drove 1400km round trip to inspect a possible donor car. 1990 JDM (import to Aus) GTII touring wagon. Spec won't be too much surprised to US, but things that Aus wagons don't have that this one does: Digi dash, cruise, headlamp washers, front fogs, variable intermittent wipers, 4EAT, EA82T The engine has typical blown head gasket, but the body & interior are rough. Deciding whether to "kill" it for parts for mine, or fix it a bit with my parts (NA MPFI + dual range 5 spd) and use the good bits in my shell, or flog mine & "restore" this one. The car won't run without the green check connectors joined though, so has anyone got any advice about whether it could have electric problems also?

So I've got a line on buying a 90 JDM GTII touring wagon. It's been sitting for a while (last registered in 2011) and was bought by the current owner with head gasket/coolant issues. It seems to start and run a bit with the green check connectors under the dash joined, but won't run otherwise. It's run down and needs work (interior, panels) to fix, and I have a spider manifold engine to drop in it, but I'm worried about it maybe having other engine electrical issues. Or is it just because of the coolant that it wouldn't run (i think it's got almost none left)?

Some might know it as the air con idle advance actuator. Never heard of one going wrong before though. it's just activate by sucking on the port on the back, which pulls the lever in, and hence pulling on the throttle.

Also, why have you got the fuse between the relay & the starter? It should be between the battery & the relay, and as close to the battery as possible. It's meant to protect your car from electrical shorts, and hence fire. The original starter wire is fused via 1 of the 3 (or 4 depending on the car) "fusible links" hanging off the coolant overflow bottle. Much larger than 15A like others have said.

not quite used to it, but need to cope with hotter temps than that. You might have needed to unbolt the shifter linkage, but the crossmember is only 4 bolts. Should've dropped some tranny fluid on the ants and then lit it

Have you tried unbolting the rear trans crossmember to allow the back of the trans to drop down, giving you more angle to pull the engine off? pffft, 100 degrees. Soft

When your car isn't starting, is it cranking over quite well? You say that the battery seems a bit iffy, but how is the condition of the alternator? Because if you've got a flat battery, it could be that is not getting charged.