wagonist

@skishop69, look up the gear ratios for the 4spd in the Brat vs the 5spd in a Loyale, even the turbo. You'll prob find that the 5th is only a bit taller than the 4th of the Brat, with the other gears evenly spaced. Just because it has a taller diff ratio doesn't mean it doesn't have shorter gear ratios

Good idea to get rid of this junk. Sometimes those wires are live and become potential shorts. I've got a Jap Import Toyota and you can order backlit numberplates over there. They'd tapped the front parker wire and I was wondering why the fuse kept blowing randomly. Took me about 12 fuses before I found that they'd just yanked the wires and left the ends exposed Found a similar problem inside the tailgate.

Can't get the tie rods ends off where? The steering rack or steering knuckles?

Aren't the Loyale front brakes slightly bigger also? If you've changed wheels then there shouldn't be a clearance problem for these.

Just get an aftermarket one. I've got a Hyundai "race car". I found something that was a combination of fan & electric heater that I mounted under the dash & ducted it through. do a search for 12v electric heater.

You shouldn't need to drop the tank. There's an access plate through the rear floor of the car (though this might be different for the coupe). Lift the carpet & check for a small access panel near the right side. Does the coupe have small pockets down the sides, lower than the boot floor? Cos the wiring comes into the car from behind a small metal guard screwed into the right side one of these.

@comatosellama, put a crush tube inside of it, or if is short, then just weld in the ends. Most lift kits are made this way.

Nope, that shape hatch was always EA81, same as the Brat/Brumby. Subaru wouldn't have gone to the effort of modding the front chassis rails to fit an EA82 between just for this one bodyshell.

without knowing the full spec of a GL10 (cos Aus never got them), the RX's got rear disc brakes and a rear sway bar as standard. Aus RX turbo sedans had different springs & shocks. And the grill is just the version they used on the hatchback/coupe. I've got one sitting at home I got as part of buying a full "ground effects kit" (front, side & rear skirts)

Could I tempt you further by making it turbo instead of NA?

If it was newer, I'd be interested as a car for the wife. Touring Wagon is a GL with the high roof. Apart from some rare (for here) single range 4wd, and FWD wagons (very early L series only), all the GL wagons are Touring Wagons. You might see some post 90s wagons with "GL", but these were just the povo pack with carpet & cloth roof lining instead of vinyl.

ok, cos I'm considering to buy a 90 touring wagon (actually a JDM import). The body, paint, bumpers & interior are a bit rough. It's got a bit of rust beside the windscreen. I'll be stripping a lot of stuff out of it (actually most) to finish my project, but then I could fit my stuff into this shell. Making it an NA MPFI, dual range manual. I don't wanna swap for the Pulsar, but it'd be cheap. PM me.

Are you wanting something that can be registered, or just for the farm? And how old a Subaru?

I agree with Naru. If they can do an alignment, they can do the work to fix it, so they should know what can be wrong. I had a local tyre dealer do a wheel alignment (paid) on my 93 Legacy when it needed new front tyres. They said the camber was way out & it would need lots of work to fix. Different story when I complained to the manager that the Legacy comes standard with an offset bolt to connect the strut to the steering knuckle. The alignment became free.

The other option would be to find some of the plastic backed lights from another country. Never have this problem of rusting, leaking, ... If Canada has the same side markers as the US, then those don't quite fit up (I'm trying to do this now after bringing some US spec side markers home from a recent trip), but nothing a small metal bracket wouldn't fix). I'd help, but our lights dim the opposite way

why halve the rating? To be doubly sure they are protecting your car from catching fire. They are supposed to blow first when something goes wrong. So if Jono's car shorts out 60A on his black wire, his fuse will blow, whereas your's may not, and hence maybe have other problems. Like fire... I didn't know that you could get newer style ones to fit. I've never had one blow. And I just keep a few spares that I've gotten from the wreckers over the years My problem is having the cap which isn't broken on the hinge... I've stashed a few that I've found at the wrecker over the years too. And always remember to unclip it from the hinge side, not the way Subaru intended. I suspect keeping foreign crud out of the box would help with the fuses longevity.

You have to remember though that the airbags in the US have a different design. Because there isn't a requirement to wear a seatbelt in the front in all states, they are designed to either go off in a smaller accident (hence your impact absorbing bumpers), or go off quicker (as your head is supposed to hit the bag after its fully inflated and cushion while it's deflating). And airbags without a seatbelt also need to stop the entire body moving, not just the head and chest. In other places where seatbelts are mandatory, these already hold the body in place somewhat. Therefore airbags take more of a supplementary role, instead of the primary role. I can see why the automatic belts are good (I had a good look at one in a wrecker in LV), but also how if the lower belt wasn't done up, then the person could simply "submarine" under the shoulder belt. Also, I've had to remove a number of seat belts from cars in the past to clean them up. Decades of body oil gums up the retracting mechanism and slides. Having an extra reel to clean hidden under the centre console would be a pain. And the mechanism to slide the belt, can't imagine how strong that all must be to hold up in an accident. I'm not sure about other countries, but the Legacy didn't get any airbags here until the second generation in 94, and then only some. The Impreza only got airbags in the upper models until the LX FWD was dropped in the late 90s.

I've only ever seen one. It's much easier to do to a pickup bed. But then, our pickups are slightly smaller than yours Depends where you're going to cut the car on how difficult. Best bet is at the B pillar so you can leave the rear doors intact. Make sure that you weld any draw bar directly to the rear suspension subframe though, and not just to the body. You'll be removing part of the body's structural integrity & need to compensate by transferring the load better, especially as there's no chassis rails under the rear part of the wagon.

So Subaru didn't swap the choke & mirror controls over? Cos the manual choke lever (on our '85 EA82s) were on the left side also, then a rear wiper switch. I know the steering columns are identical as our key is on the right side (makes it easier to get the key out of the ignition if you've locked them in the car ), mostly everything else seems reversed.

wow, really. How lazy of Subaru So much for letting the other half into the car quickly then when it's bucketing down rain...

Was it the core that was leaking, or the hoses? If it was the core, did you get a new one, or 2nd hand? Those clamps that Subaru uses have a tendency to cut the rubber pipes after a while Jealous of the LHD model which seemingly have pipes connected all the way out of the firewall as 1 piece.

And RXLeone, yours looks more assembled than mine's been for the last 5 years....

details, details, .... They were sold here from 85 to 94 (but I do recalled seeing some late 84 built plates on early 85s), but I doubt that any were made in the last year. They just would've been getting rid of old stock (probably discounted) in preparation for the Impreza.

No worries. The differences come with LHD & RHD, where the firewalls are different (holes are in different spots, bracket for steering column & heater box are opposite sides). Every other difference is in a bolt on part (wiring, dashboard, engine crossmember & steering rack, etc).

I reckon replacing the tailgate like that makes the tray not usuable extra for bulky items you can tie down. I've seen option 4 done a few times. Get some older style roof racks meant for the sedan & wagon, bolt a frame between them. Option 3 would compromise the radiator cooling in hotter weather. ok on a big truck with lots of frontal area, not so much on a subie. Another option would be to fix it to the inside of the tailgate? Option 1 is the most popular over here, but you'll see it more on wagons/SUVs