wagonist

What's the coil look like? The Subaru ones have only 2 screw pins. Positive power with ignition on & negative which provides tacho signal & signal to ECU. Don't forget to connect this negative coil wire to the ECU signal. It will not run without it. I had a project crank but not start through 6 months of troubleshooting because I didn't have it connected

If you want to reduce the weight of the dash, remove the whole thing, remove the wiring from the back and then cable tie up the wiring & gauge cluster or something. The weight is in the dash moulding, not really the cluster & switches. Get some dry ice, a hammer & remove the sound deadening off the floor. search for vids on how to do this on the net. Don't use the heat gun method. Takes 5 times longer & is much more messy. Not sure which model you've got, but convert to a carb, the wiring loom is heaps lighter. But a lot of work... Or change to a sedan. But yeah, these things aren't the heaviest cars in the world

Get a clamp and push the taper back into the knuckle. That should hold it tight again. If the knuckle is still on the car, get a jack and use that to push the tie rod back in. You shouldn't need to over tighten it, you've already had the nut off once. Do you have access to a "rattle gun" (not sure what you guys call that power tool. They put less lever rotation onto a nut, plus the shock of starting.

It looks like the rear springs are a similar length. The lower seats are way lower than they are on a standard shock. The fronts I'm not sure. As the lower seat sits out above the tyre, you can't lower that seat like you can do with the rears. Nice pics of the system though. Would love to get hold of a setup. Little chance that's going to wear out like the pneumatic version.

Yes, its a b###tard. First, clean out the small groove so that the piece sticking out of the heater (rod) can be squeezed together. Don't clean it out too much otherwise it won't stay locked afterwards (tho you can put a small wedge in there to help this) clean the edges of the rod with a small file (nail file or some such to remove any lipped edge) you need to try to squeeze it together whilst also levering behind with a screwdriver. Use thin pliers to squeeze & a sharp wide screwdriver to lever. DO NOT TWIST the screwdriver, otherwise you'll break the whole thing off. If you can get help from another person to hold the heater box, it's really helpful cos you need 2 hands to lever, squeeze.

Can you post up a pic of how they attached over the top of the light, and also how far around the side they go?

You could find the wreck of an automatic trans car, and swap the engine bay brake lines from that. The autos don't have a hill holder. A lot more effort though. BTW, how ugly can the holder be? Isn't it hidden beneath your brake booster & master cylinder & steering column? Think how ugly it looks when those items are on the other side of the car...

Have you contacted the manufacturer direct to find out what shipping cost might be on a bulk order (though that will have an extra import duty attached to it)? I know a few who buy wheels directly from the US. Even with shipping (and sometimes splitting packages to keep the cost under $1000 so no import duty), they are cheaper than the equivalent rim from the Aus agent (and usually arrive quicker too > )

Axle splines can be fixed by changing front CVs. You might be better off doing that considering how rare the dual range boxes are in the US

Almost any external EFI fuel pump will have enough pressure. These engines aren't the most powerful in stock trim...

Manuals have a neutral safety switch in the US? I know later gearboxes have a neutral switch on the trans. I think its on the left side behind the reverse light switch.

on the gearstick. If you remove the centre console, there will be a bunch of wires hanging off the base of the shifter. The safety switch is the one which joins the 2 thickest wires (usually BW & BY)

I think the major difference is the snow in your country, and the lack of it in mine. Most of our Subarus were sold in country areas, where our roads are not made as well of yours (we are lucky to asphalt anywhere more than 2 hours from the coastline), so the need for low range on dirt is more necessary. You just need traction in snow.

Unplug the loom at the wiper motor & check for current on each wire with the different settings (intermittent is a bit harder to do) The wiring is pretty simple for the wipers. If I was at home, I'd scan a copy and post it. Know anyone nearby with the same car? Remove your wiper switch (bit awkward because you'll have to remove the steering wheel), plug it into their car & see what works & what doesn't. Bit harder to remove your wiper motor to do the same, but you could possibly rig up a short loom extension to plug their car into your wiper motor (it's only 4 wires, I think)

For a noob, can I suggest a different path? I learnt this from being a noob myself. It will take a lot more time, but is less prone to having something go wrong. If you have a complete car loom, I'd suggest actually getting the loom laid out, plug in the loom, hook up a fuel supply, radiator, etc, and get the engine running with the loom not in the car. Be careful to get the earth wires all hooked up back to the car. This will get your engine working. After that, I'd suggest tracing the wires from any plugs in the loom that aren't connected, because if the engine works without them plugged on, the wires are also redundant. But only do 1 wire at a time. And cut it first only before removing it. Retest the engine works after each wire is cut, otherwise you'll never know which wire to fix after you've removed one too many (I've ended up buying a whole car for the working loom before to fix this problem, $300 I'd like to have back in my pocket ) And if you find that the engine still works, then remove that wire, otherwise you can simply solder it back together. BTW, be careful of the wires that come from both the coil signal to the ECU & exhaust oxygen sensor, they are both shielded back to the ECU, so can't simply cut them anywhere along their length & rejoin. I'd also recommend not using measurements of the length to work out how long the wires should be. There's always something in the way when you run a wiring loom. Lay the loom in the car, tie it to everything you what to secure it, mount the ECU, then with the loom in position, start to cut & resolder each wire in position. Guaranteed never to go wrong. And don't forget to leave some slack for maneuvering loom for undoing plugs, etc.

lol, ditching the factory rails has been done before. On higher power EJ20T, because the feed & return are on 1 side, the other side has been found to be starved of fuel. They just joined equal length rubber lines that joined near the throttle body so all injectors had equal pressure. Sorry, but can't really tell form the diagram if the long bolts are the ones you've shown or not (I've got a bad memory... )

The dual range trans will all have a rod running outside alongside the casing on what you call the passenger side. If it doesn't have this, it's not a dual range. If it also has a vacuum solenoid, then it'll be an "RX" type trans with full-time 4wd and centre diff lock. But these will generally have the shorter low range. Really going to have to start looking at the shipping costs to supply these from Aus EA82 engined cars are getting a bit thin on the ground, but nearly all of ours had dual range 5 spds. Plus all our Liberty (Legacy) AWD wagons were dual range until at least late 90s

hmmm, any pics of the post 90 setup? I'll get some pics of the ADM (and I suspect most of the world) setup with the reel on top of the rear wheels, with a loop point halfway up the C pillar (if anyone's pulled this trim you've prob seen the hole in the metal)

I saw recently a post in the for sale section showing a pic of the rear inside of a wagon and the rear seat belts stick up out of the trim. Does anyone have any better pics of these & how they're attached? Are they retractable? I'm also curious to hear how they sit on the shoulder of rear passengers. The rear seat belt in Aus are bolted to the C pillar and the retractable reel is inside the trim on top of the rear wheels. This system usually means that the seat belt doesn't touch the shoulder of shorter passengers, which isn't that good an idea in an accident.

It's because the bracket that holds it onto the strut are at slightly different angles so the lines don't get twisted. I'm can't remember how they lock into the brake caliper so they don't twist (ie, its not just the banjo bolt holding the line in a set position). I don't think its a great problem, and the aftermarket at the caliper ends are usually double sided

holidaying in US for 8 weeks. Been here for 4 already. Almost forgotten what Aus looks like

Or you could make your car work more like the rest of the world & have the parkers as parkers (I'll guess you'll need a yellow globe), and your bumper lights as turn signals only since I arrived here, I've been curious about the methods used on different cars to make the front blinkers/clearance lights work. Seem most use a dual filament globe (which I think is less noticable at night than a globe that flashes on & off & therefore not quite as safe). Also curious about how to make red brake lights flash for the turn signal. When the brakes are off its easy, but to make the light turn off when the turn signal is on (and then to flash in the same sequence when the brake goes off) has confused me. Sorry for the hijack...

Mine still takes 2 globes. a small wedge for the side yellow, and a bayonet for the white one. The white one needs 3 cutouts. 2 opposite each other, and 1 at 90 degrees. Jono, any chance you could post a pic of yours? I might be able to mod mine to fit something else. My last resort might be to glue in an LED light. These ones aren't legal in Aus because they wouldn't be visible from a driver in a car from the next lane (why ours have a large bump on them), so I'm going to have to keep the Aus ones for the yearly registration inspection anyway (doubtful they'd note the difference )

Ages ago, I had my 85 turbo with full-time 4wd upto just short of indicated 180km/h. But it was a heavy thing being full JDM specced including climate air. I swear the dashboard alone was 10-15kg heavier than a GL Aus version, plus lift kit. With the bigger wheels in had, prob should add 10-15%. And then I jumped into a full JDM spec Series 1 Legacy GT auto wagon, which hit the 180km/h limiter so hard (and still in 3rd), that you actually got thrown forward

Maybe put some rubber in between the end bolts now?