wagonist

I got the lights off a 92, so sounds like I got the one with the bigger globe. Any chance you know whether the Aus lights have the same sized globe holders for both parker & indicator? I wish I'd had more time to look over the car & see the differences. The automatic seatbelts were "interested", especially with the retractor reels under the centre console. Always preferred the number plate in the bumper look, but don't like the US front bumpers.

unbolt the throttle body, get a custom pipe made that aims off at an angle, fit the throttle body to the other end of the pipe? not sure what it'd do to your throttle response though

I've bought some front corner lights from a local pick-a-part. The main globes mounts where they screw into the back of the light have become brittle and so aren't secured anymore. I tried getting replacements from NAPA but their listing was too big to fit in. Anyone got any suggestions about how to fix this problem?

can you put up a pick of which bolt you're thinking? The fuel rails are actually in multiple pieces with hard lines joined by flexible lines. I think you can just loosen the ends without undoing those long bolts, but I'm too far away from my MPFI engine to be able to look for you myself. But do yourself a favour & try to strip away some of the other stuff like wiring first.

Bought a pair of US spec corner lights from the local pick a park in Las Vegas. Will have to wait til I get home to aus to see how well they mount up (because we have plastic backed headlights, not metal ones), but looks like the top bracket screws on the in the same spot. Problem I've got is the "main" bayonet style lights are brittle and they won't stay in anymore. Any recommendations on where to buy replacements? Still going to need to modify the wiring because Aus cars use the side yellow light as an indicator only.

Yes, which bracket are you talking about? You'll need to unbolt the fuel rail first at the ends as the injector is inline, then you'll need to undo the 2 small bolts that hold a plate around the injector in. I remember when pulling the entire inlet manifold, finding that 2 of the bolts go all the way through into the coolant passage, meaning the end of the threads get rusted up, and needing to be removed very carefully.

No, the Nissan ones are the same as the R200 used in the STi WRXs, even the R180 used in some Datsuns is stronger than our rear diffs. Interchangable tho, with a bit of work.

The airbags wear out on the pneumatic suspension. Good luck finding any replacements. Any sitting around have probably perished by now unfortunately.

It's nothing about being cut by rocks, etc (they put underbody shields on for this stuff, but that the 2 bushes don't rotate along the same axis. Therefore, they deform, something that some poly bushes don't handle very well. The bushes will be fine for the short term, but give them 12 months maybe and they might have deteriorated completely if you've got the wrong material in there.

If the wiring is that bad, I'd be suggesting getting another dashboard loom from the wrecker. I've got a wiring diagram at home, but I'm in your country at the moment, not mine

You can't partially powdercoat something unfortunately. 2 pack paint would be the hardest thing you could probably apply. Then clear coat the lot to protect it. Johnno, they did a twin throttle NA, then single throttle supercharger (they cut the inlet manifold to fit the charger, then had the throttle body on the inlet). And it was before autospeed, I can't remember if it was Fast 4s & rotories, or Hot 4s. I know of a whole Excel for sale with a twin throttle for about $600 unreg, but I figure if I'm going to mod it again later, then I may as well start at a higher point. The crashed Elantra I bought was only $400, and apart from the $1k I spent on the LSD, the only other costs have been about $150 for driveshafts & 3 cartons of beer for the welding.

the entire dashboard wiring loom will be different. Plus, you'll prob find that the 87 will light up orange, whereas your one is green.

Currently, I've only needed to make minor mods to 2 gearbox mounts. I probably could've got away without this as both Excel bolts fitted directly on the front mount (but the Elantra uses an extra 2) & 2 of the 3 bolts fitted directly on the upper mount. I decided the minimal extra cutting & welding (I reckon about 30 minutes total work) to join on the Elantra parts to the Excel mounts was worth it due to the rough treatment the car gets. Rear mount was identical. I needed to do a full custom mount for the engine mount. I'd need to remake all of the mounts to fit a Mitsi engine as I'd need to fit the Mitsi gearbox also. This means I'd be up for another set of "custom" driveshafts and I've got almost no market for the $1000 Quaife LSD I bought for the Elantra gearbox Although, that gearbox looks very much like my Elantra one... I know about the interchangability of Hyundai & Mitsi. I've got full Mitsi brakes fitted, plus the LSD is meant for the USDM Talon 4wd At mo, I'd be more inclined to turbocharge or supercharger the Elantra engine and when it blows, consider my engine options. Glad to see your wheels have turned up. :clap: What do they look like on the car just polished up?

Bingo. If you've got the ability to easily pull the engine will a hoist, then save yourself a lot of future headaches by spending the extra hour or so doing this. The brackets hang way out on these and require the belt to be pretty tight to keep pressure on the pulley.

You check the condition of these poly bushes often? Because they don't pivot in line with each other, they have a tendency to chop out if you've used the wrong poly material (ie too hard). Rally guys over here in the 80s would sometimes get less than 1 rally out of these hard bushes. They'd carry spare arms and sometimes need to swap them out overnight.

I thought it was only the early (pre 85) models that had failing digi dashes? To fit the digi dash, you're going to need the matching fuel gauge sender, and also the plugs for the back as they are very different from the analog dash.

What oil are you running in it? Sounds like something is too thick and then thins out when it gets warm. Can you shift by rev matching without the clutch? 2nd - 3rd is usually the easiest test. Can you get it to shift when the engine is off? If so, in the short term, and you need it to do like this morning, then start the car in reverse with the clutch in, or reverse into your garage so you can drive out.

These used to be a popular accessory for Aus cars also. Aunger was a company that made them. However, with the switch to plastic headlight lens in the late 90s, this market pretty much dried up.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151419-1992-subaru-loyale-sedan-shell/ Sorry, you'd know better than me how far away this is from you

If you let insurace at that, they will definitely total it Especially as the damage goes up the C pillar. My first car was a sedan. I discovered about 3 months after owning it, that someone had welded the back of another sedan onto it. Everything from the rear window back was from another car. But this was back in 94 when these cars were still worth something, and it had a rare (for Aus, 85 only) factory electric sunroof. I ended up rolling it about 5 years later & the sunroof was my escape route

no, it was the switch for the pneumatic suspension. Which was ditched a while ago due to the airbags being too expensive to buy from Subaru. Flip up lights? You mean like on the XT/Vortex? urggh I think the nose of those is way too long

Is your car a turbo? I'm curious to why its running a space saver tyre. If it's not a turbo, you should be able to fit a normal full sized 13" spare under the bonnet. You will need to remove the spacer bracket that's at the back of the wheel well.

there is another way. while the car is still on the ground, undo & remove the top bolt of the strut through the strut tower. The weight of the car will keep it all compressed. Then when you jack the car up, it will all become loose safely. You can install it back the same way, but you have to be careful lining up the top spring mount as the spring doesn't sit concentrically with the strut. Some cable ties with a loose dummy fit on the bench can work to help this. And if you get stuck, you can still take the parts to a shop to re-assemble as TomRhere said

that's for the electrical switch, but if your ignition is worn so your key won't turn properly, then that's a different story.

The other trick is to get the GL radiator hose, cut it on the straight after the first bend off the rad, do the same for the EJ hose off the engine Get an exhaust shop to get a piece of pipe in the smaller size & flare it to match the bigger pipe. Use copper pipe as it's easier to stretch with less heat. Exhaust shop may already have a flaring type pipe. if so, Get them to weld on straight pieces as required, and also get them to run a bead around the outside edge so the hoses don't pull off.