wagonist

And I call nonsense on the rear crossmember not being allowed to be welded. It's just a piece of steel that's bent and welded anyway... True, don't just weld up any holes, but cutting out the correct sections, and properly welding in a sleeve inside with plug welds and then a good weld around the outside is perfectly ok. Ground back & repainted he'd never ever know

The only other thing I can think about is that the clutch disc supplied is the wrong one for the kit and is too fat. The pressure plate doesn't move that much when you disengage it (it only needs to be enough to lose contact), but if the clutch is too fat then it can't disengage. I feel for you trying to get a problem like this fixed. Good luck and keep us informed if you take it to a shop. Hope it's not something major.

How much trouble did you have lining up the tranny with the engine? I've heard of people bending the fingers on the clutch pressure plate by getting the input shaft pressing on them instead of going through the hole. Or even by resting the input shaft on the clutch plate as you lift it into position. This is part of the reason I recommended pulling the engine not the trans, because at least you know you can get the 2 mated exactly & squarely, not at an angle On my first car (an 85 sedan), I got a faulty clutch plate where one of the coiled springs come out and got jammed. I couldn't get the car into 1st gear at all with the engine running, and 2nd was just barely. For about 1 week, I was driving around by taking off in 2nd gear, low range (or it might have been 3rd), then high range, then 4th. Really annoyed other driver cos I'd take off really slow, then suddenly accelerate when the engine got enough revs

I just remembered that if you've got a Weber carb, it may just fit. Not sure how the piping layout is on the SPFI. You know there's a bolt down place in the cargo/trunk for a wheel? Meant to be for the turbo models that only have a space saver but it's been on every body shell that I've ever seen

Not unless you deflate the tyre

So you've cut the existing plugs off the headlights and then joined in these other plugs? There would have been 3 wires. There is a 1 common wire, and one for high beam, and the last for low beam. If you put a multimeter across those wires you'll get 12v to find the different circuits. For low beam, you must pick that low beam wires to one side of the trigger of the relay, and the other side of the trigger goes to the common wire. You don't earth the other side of this trigger. It's a common mistake. On aftermarket relays, these will be the pins labelled 85 & 86. For the high beam, you do the same for that relay with the high beam wire. Then run a fused wire from your battery to pin 30, then 87 & 87a to the headlights. Then earth out the other side. Is this how you've got it wired?

I'd be very wary of cutting a hole through the back of the cab. Don't forget that these don't have a separate chassis like a larger pickup to take the torsion loads. That bulkhead on the back fo the cab would be preventing a lot of twisting on the chassis. Are you (well, the attendants ) allowed to fill the tank through a funnel? If so, get one (or make one) with a seal that fits snugly inside the filler tube/fuel filler.

You're going to need someone to gas it up after you've installed it all, so get friendly with your local AC guy. I've bought seals, receiver/dryers all separately before. They'll prob sell you that stuff no worries, and also give advice. If they just want to do the job only, then find someone else If you've got the system degassed, it's probably a good idea to replace the seals in the lines. Total cost is about $5 if you can do it all yourself and worth it if you've just shelled out for gas & the system doesn't seal. Can be labour intensive cos the joins are often difficult to get access to though. The Loyale has 2 joins inside the condenser box behind the dash, which 99% of the time don't get replaced. Not sure if the earlier models have this same design flaw... Definietely worth the effort to do these also, just a PITA

You don't have self storage places in your area that can handle a car? Find one that has power outlets, & 24 hours access (so that if they don't permit "work" so can stil sneak in) They'll be flat, undercover, able to plug in a heater & lights, ... And prob a good idea to get yourself a rental vehicle for the running around (unless you've got something else)

So what's the problem of just having the white parkers at the front of the car? The REST OF THE WORLD does it this way I've never understood why US spec vehicles need the front indicators on with the parkers (which would make them harder to see as turn signals), yet can still use the brake lights as turn signals (which looks cool, but is gotta be less visible than having separate lights)

wow, that looks so weird compared with seeing the RHD version only the heater pipes look so convoluted compared with ours. But supremely jealous that the pipes are metal and one piece with the heater core. For some stupid reason, RHD models have rubber bends joining the heater core to the pipes through the firewall. Never ending source of frustrating when they split and you'll see lots of Aus models with the hose looped back onto itself in the engine bay. It doesn't get that cold here, some summer days we wish it would temps would drop 30 degrees...

That RX looks so mint. Recently gave one of those louvres to someone else who helped me out. I think another mate still has the touring wagon version I had (he bought the wreck of a car I wrote off). I should get it back from him... Very 80s & very Australian

Or they took the kit meant for an XT. I've got that. A friend wanted the yellow fog lights, and I wanted the harness & switch.

I've always thought about how hard it would be to strip off the necessary parts off the dual range to ship over, because a lot of the stuff would be similar, or modify-able. eg ditching the dual range linkage & using a cable instead like the Legacy and later models (or even electrifying with a wiper motor) IMHO, this would just need the split input shaft with "shifter" & RHS casing, maybe the LHS. Keep the vacuum operated 4wd. Would be cheaper to ship than a complete trans. But seeing as we only got the single range part time 4wd box for the 85 model (so those ones are rare over here ), I've never been able to compare inside.

Found some on the Ausubaru forum Series 2: Series 1 (a bit harder to see, but also on the bottom left): The automatic covers are simply that, automatic. You press the switch and the power for the light raises the cover. When the power is disconnected, they lower. The only extra wire is permanent power for the motors.

I feel bad for you guys that I've got a good working D/R trans sitting in my backyard out in the weather just rotting away. And I'll prob just throw it for scrap value.

ok. did that & getting 2 lots of pics, some of which include the model we got here, and some which look different. Maybe it would be better to ask which engine, because the body type is irrelevant

Is there any chance that someone cost post up a picture of what one of these Maximas looks like? We didn't get the "Maxima" in Aus until the next model, but this isn't to say that we didn't get it just under a different name.

Don't be too worried about the engine/tranny spacers, make sure you've got the steering shaft extension first cos not just anybody can make those. Seems that would need to come from the Outback anyways.

The rear main seal is a small $ part. If you think its the problem, and you're going to pull the engine or gearbox to check, then just replace it anyway. IMHO, the small amount of extra effort needed ot replace that part which can kill an engine if it fails (which I've done )is worth it. Just be ready to do the clutch also. I'd also reckon on needing to machine the flywheel. Do some research on places in your local area that can machine the flywheel for you. As Twitch has said, even with hand tools, you can have an EA out in under an hour with the right tools. Start making a list of what you need and be prepared for problems (cos if you're prepared for them, they won't happen). I'd also suggest, given the climate over there, start going round the engine bay now and seeing if the bolts/nuts will actually undo. ie do one at a time to: crack each nut/bolt remove it fully (if it won't undo, don't force it now, but start spraying penetrating fluid and letting it soak) then do it back up because if the nuts will undone now, then they'll be a breeze to do in a hurry when you need to. And if you want to post up a list of tools/things you need on here for others to check, we're happy to help

Subaruist, note that some carby pumps will allow gravity feeding of fuel through them if there's too much pressure. With your tank mounted higher than the engine, you may find it'll still push fuel through even if the engine is shut off. and yeah, I've never gotten the electrically powered pump in the tank either. ok when fully submerged cos there's no oxygen & too much fuel to ignite, but the fuel level gets low & the connections are sitting in the fuel vapour/oxygen mix, why they don't go bang I don't understand. Carby pumps are readily available over here cos the "Loyale" was carby until they finished in 94, but I know that stopped in 88 cos they all went SPFI instead.

if the ea82 clutch is requiring a longer throw, but the EA81 isn't doing that, couldn't you just move the cable position on the fork down lower? Shorter throw on a shorter distance from the pivot will give the same movement. I know this is easier said than done but modding the clutch fork sounds heaps easier than modding the pedal box.

So you mean the lever arm on the outside of the heater box has come off? BTW, which side of the heater box is this for LHD models. for us RHD people, they're on the right side, so in the driver's footwell, and so you remove the panel under the steering column to gain better access. You might need to remove the glove box. If it's come off inside, then it's broken, and you're going to have to remove the heater box from the car & disassemble it to fix.

On the fuel pump, try bridging the negative side of the wiring directly to the body. This wire is supposed to earth out via the ECU on the series 1, but something burns out. Mine started doing your problem, and then got worse and worse over the following months until it finally refused to run at all. Might not be your problem, but almost $0 to try.

Curious why you undid the shift linkages at the gearstick end & not the transmission end? There's only 1 split pin & a washer through each, and then you don't need to remove the centre console, rubber boot, ... Bit hard to get to until the tailshaft & exahust are removed, but not overly difficult