wagonist

Yeah, but considering that the upper crossmember would now "only" need to hold the engine, and nothing else, you could cut holes & reinforce it without too much dramas. Already got the welder out to do the blocks, etc But, like all old cars, bits are getting hard to find...

And usually requires removal of the bumper to access them...

That reminds me, I think I may have removed the globe from the white base & swapped them, or else I took the globe out & went to an electronics store for a replacement (sorry it's been about 15 years...). They're not soldered it, just the wires hanging off the globe are wrapped "through" the white part Dimmer switch should be the same for all pre 87 models. Either that, or get the later dimmer & do a bit of fiddling with the wiring. It fits in the tall rectangular spot next to the early headlight switch. Just can't remember off the top of my head how many wires are on it.

I used to have a set of those. They even survived after I crashed the front passenger side into a tree, but the guy who bought the wreck lost one of them... Took me a while to get the motors to work consistently tho Now got another set made for the Liberty/Legacy (don't know why when there was factory cutout for them... ) that look the same, but the mounting bracket is just flat (makes it easier to screw to the bottom of a bumper

I'm curious why you wouldn't use the crossmember back up where it's supposed to be (to hold the engine up on its original rubber mounts, then use a 2nd one spaced down below to hold the suspension & diff?

Damn, that looks neat. I look the way the window trims work all the way around on the flat roof GL wagons. It doesn't quite look right on the GL high roof "Touring wagons" we got, and the flat roofs are all DLs without the extra mouldings.

Check if the snap ring just inside the cup is still there. It's what's supposed to stop this from happening, but it's only a thin piece of wire & has its limits. If that's pulled out, it could have slingshot that across the scenery & would need to be replaced.

Ditto, it's Friday. The mood should be lightened before the weekend

Does your mirror switch have provision for a light? Because Subaru got cheap with the series 2 and deleted that provision. I've previously sourced the series 1 (not available in Aus) and found they all did though. I've added that style to later one using the green globe out of a rear wiper switch though, so if you want it to remain orange, get yourself another rear wiper switch and use that globe

All of the dash lights are powered this way (on pre 87 models, can't confirm for the later ones): +12 volts through the parker switch to the globe globe is then earthed through the dimmer switch The ashtray light doesn't dim (the last thing you need is not finding the ashtray with a lit cigarette and catching your interior on fire...), but is earthed out directly. So from your symptoms, I'd be checking the "earth" side of the circuit, and the connection to the dimmer switch. I can't remember if its the red wire, or the red/green wire

By the time you add enough metal to the frame of the body to handle the load points all relocating, you're probably better off mounting the body onto the chassis of another vehicle like a Hilux or some such. Have a look around into the picture section (is there one? ) at the super lifted Brats with huge wheels. Pretty sure there's mention of Nissan 720 transfer case being used.

I think others just remove the entire assembly from the engine first rather then separating the reservoir (well, at least I do ). Less messy, but more work. Triangular O-rings are just deformed over time due to the shape of where they are placed (same as the O rings into the A/C compressor). They start off round...

I don't get why you'd need drill bits, apart from needing to drill big sized holes through the lift blocks? Because don't need to enlarge the holes in the car.

Yeah, $4k for an airbag is steep. I was going to suggest getting one from a wrecker, but I guess if you've had an accident big enough for the bag to go off, then there's a lot more work needed... Hope you find a good replacement vehicle

jj421, that reminded me of the time 20 years ago when I was driving down the main street of the coutnry town I lived in, when the lower ball joint came away from the steering knuckle. So with the right front wheel (driver's side for me) jammed into the back of the wheel arch, I just smashed the brake pedal to lock up the front wheels and skidded to a stop. Doesn't sound like a big deal, except the road was due to be closed about 5 mins later for the annual street parade & people were already starting to gather. Not enough tools to fix (the ball joint had sheared), the local tow company was going to take 30 mins (still can't figure that one out, the town was only 5 mins drive across...), but basically a whole heap of onlookers either picked up the front corner of the car or sat on/in the boot and we rolled it down the street & around the corner

If one switch is bad, 90% chance that the rest are bad or close to it. Clean them all, it's free, just some time

well, that's one way to solve a mechanical issue...

Unfortunately, when you start to muck around this much with a car, 99% of places don't want to know about it. It's just too hard cos its not in a manual how to fix. I've had a conversion crank, but not start for 6 months (EA82T replacing carb EA82) simply cos I had 1 wire plugged in wrong. The sense of achievement when you finally solve this kind of problem & can drive it is amazing. I was out on country roads for what felt like 30 mins enjoying it. Risky considering unregistered and initially not even the dump pipe fitted

Been done with flat bar. Use your imagination Considering that the carrier bracket is only spot welded on in a number of places, not fully welded, you could possibly consider using a number of larger pop rivets with washers on the other side. But I don't guarantee this method and use at your own peril... Or get a 1 piece tailshaft made up. Or turn the car on its side....

Have you confimred that the motor is gone? Pull the door card off, unplug the motor & jump 12V across it. reverse the connections to reverse the direction. Switches are common problem at this age. Also check that the tracks are lubricated. The "grease" clogs up over the years also with dirt and other debris. If you really decide to go ahead, then you need the whole winder mechanism, but the doors are the same so it is a bolt on job. I've done the other way conversion without any dramas. Door cards are different as the hole for the window & the hole for the power switch are different locations.

a constant small leak will gradually soak it's way through the underlay. But check the seals for the windows then also. If the windows are out of alignment, even slightly, they may not be touching the seals all the way around.

I've heard that later NA MPFIs use the 25 spline trans also, so be careful. The axles at the wheel end are all the same.

I'd be checking why it's wet while it's apart. Leaking heater hoses behidn the dash are a common problem

The 2 types of lift kit I've seen in Oz either using steel RHS (SHS) or solid aluminium 2" lift blocks usually use 2" x 2" blocks, so using 3" x 2" RHS will be fine. 4mm thick should be fine, but remember you will need to put crusher tubes in the bolt holes so you don't squash the blocks. You may or may not want to weld in the ends for added stiffness. The hardest blocks to do are those on the front of the rear suspension & the tie rod end mounts. There will be little in the way of drawings. The kits don't need to be that complicated and nearly all the blocks are straight. That's why you can't find anything. Get under the car, and just measure the length of the stuff that's sitting on the body. eg engine crossmember, rear diff moustache bar, and just get materials to suit that length. And bugger these guys, just post in metric. the rest of the world does...

Agree. Is that a blue or a green?