wagonist

The pressure gauge sender & oil pressure light sender are 2 different units. They screw into the engine in slightly different places, but very nearby to each other. Look for a blanking bolt angled downwards at 45 degrees near to where you've seen the straight out sender. Does your car currently have a cluster with a tacho? If not, you're in for a lot of rewiring to change it. The plug are the same, but lamost no wires are in the same position. If you do have a tacho cluster, then it is very simple to upgrade to the oil/volts cluster. The wires are the same, but you'll be missing the wire for the oil pressure gauge. Once you have installed the proper sender (just leave the old one in to block it hole blocked up): unplug the wire for the pressure light sender & plug it into the pressure gauge sender remove the dashboard cowling & instrument cluster find the wire that goes to the oil pressure warning light & cut it find the pin on the back of the oil pressure type instrument cluster where the wire comes in (you'll probably find that position in the plug is empty) find a piece of wire with the correct pin end to suit the plug (trip to the wrecker?) join this to the wire you cut for the warning light reinstall everything I'm not sure if the cars that had the gauge also have the warning light or not, but note that this method means there is no more warning light, just the gauge.

I'd be worried about the amount of oil in the tranny of your Impreza if it didn't come out. Or you had it parked slightly downhill. It doesn't take much of a slope before oyu can stop it.

Might be easier to post up pics of what you're dealing with & then we can give pointers?

Agree with this. I've had the same sized tyres from 2 different manufacturers together & they were nowhere near the same diameter....

You have this the wrong way around. All wheel drive models have a centre diff which can cope a little bit with different tyres sizes, but its not good as its loading up this diff. But will get you out of trouble in the short term. Part time 4wds lock the front & rear diffs together, so if you have different tyre sizes, 1 end will be trying to spin faster than the other. Definitely not good. If you're really stuck and have no option, put the bigger tyres on the front so they pull the rear. If the bigger ones are on the back, they will be pushing and so the back of the car will try to pass the front (ie car spinning) Realistically, get 4 tyres the same is the best no matter what.

quick answers having converted an 85 NA EA82 carb GL wagon manual dual range to 85 EFI turbo EA82T using a japanese sedan front cut strip the inside of the cars: dashboards and anything bolted to the floor, strip the wagon's rear side trims. Remove the front fenders. you need to swap the entire fuel system: fuel tank (swirl pot), fuel lines (bigger), fuel pumps (EFI version) you need to swap the steering columns (ECU bolts to it) you need to swap the entire wiring looms to run the EFI. If the RX is a sedan (not a hatch), you will lose the rear wiper wiring, plus power to the cargo area light). This is fixable if you can trace those wires from the wagon loom, remove them & install into the RX loom. If the RX is a hatch, then it won't have enough central locking wires. Power window loom is separate & unplugs and can therefore be swapped. Rear wiring for the lights runs very differently for the wagon to others (splits & runs both sides of the car vs around the rear, so cut & join this just behind the B piller. if you're GL wagon is EFI, then the dashboard looms are very similar (only missing the "boost light" function), otherwise swap the dashboard looms plus instrument cluster over. Again, note about the rear wiper wiring. swap the entire rear subframe so you get the disc brakes, LSD, and rear swaybar. You can cut off the wagon's extra bumpstops & weld them onto the RX's arms the only advantage of RX part-time trans is the thicker 25 spline front CVs vs 23 spline versions. The low range is worse. The diff ratio is worse (3.7 vs 3.9, but check this by removing the trans sump plug & counting them). You can remove the front stub axles. pull these from the RX trans & put them in your trans. if you leave your trans & it's a 3.9 diff, but want to use the LSD, then you'll need to swap the crown wheel on the rear diff As both cars are 5 speeds, the gearbox casings & wiring are identical & are direct swap. It seems complicated as the cars need a full strip down. Just park them beside each other & be methodical. But IMHO its easier than the EJ swap as everything just bolts in. My swap was difficult as I went from : 3spd part time 4wd automatic donor to 5 spd dual range part time 4wd, but also did change to full time 4wd dual range as aprt of the swap GL analog dash to GL digital dash sedan (but with JDM rear wiper) to wagon And I had to keep one car running at all times as I didn't have a spare until later

As Loyal 2.7 Turbo said, the factory single row radiator is borderline for keeping NA carb engine cool, let alone anything better. Aus cars have many problems with this, and our temps are a lot higher than yours. Sydney spends weeks over summer with temps over 40 degrees C (but with a lower lower humidity), let alone anywhere not near the ocean. Do you have shrouds around the electric fans like the factory ones? Otherwise, the "corners" not covered by the fans don't get this cooling effect. There's a reason why factory fans have those shrouds. Ultimately, the only real solution is a thicker twin cooler radiator, unfortunately. A temp quick fix (often also used by those doing hard core 4wding), is to rig up a manual override switch for the fans inside the cabin. So when you know you're going to be in traffic, turn the fans on early. Although, if you're running your A/C, the fans should be on anyways. Not sure how you wired up your fans, but the factory ones have power with the key at ACC and then earth out via temp sensor on the rad. Intercept the wire(s) going from the fan to the sensor, extend to the cabin. You'll need at least a 2 position ON-ON switch (although 4wd'ers use a 3 position ON-OFF-ON switch so they can turn the fans off for water crossings). Connect 1 position back to the temp sensor for automatic operation, the other position to earth to run the fans constantly. Due to the amount of current running, it may be advisable to run relays so the switch isn't copping the full current load.

I'm sure with a lot of bracket fab work in the engine bay, that stuff could be made to fit, but its the parts udner the dash that are really specific as the "cooler" needs to sit between the fan & heater box.

call me old fashioned, but not so fussed on the flat black, the gloss black always looked sparkled. But each to their own, we can't all drive the same thing Still looks a great car. Everytime I see your car, I'm reminded how much I'd like a 3 door...

for the rear diff, I've never been able to figure this out, but maybe the diff housing is slightly narrower, so the shafts tend to pull out of the diff. The easiest way around this is to get rear shafts from an 85-87 which can have floating CVs on both ends of the shaft (like the inner fronts). This gives a bit of extra leeway. If there is a problem with the front shaft length, conversions using an EJ engine into an ea81 engined car usually have problems finding shafts short enough. Impreza shafts normally work well with EJ conversions into EA82 engined cars, so maybe find out what the EA81 engined guys used, as it may be a little shorter. Apart from this, get very friendly with your local driveshaft shop. Sometimes its possible to mix 'n match CVs & shafts from different cars/manufacturers to achieve what you want. ie I've got a mix of Mitsibishi & Hyundai CVs with some unknown length shaft in my Elantra powered Accent (which had a 20mm wider trans)

but first, try getting someone to lean on the outside of the tailgate and pull the handle, then push it outwards from the inside. Could simply be something caught in the catch. I've had it happen.

Get in there & simply pull it inwards from the top with a long flat screwdriver. The trim doesn't interfere with the inside trim. Yes, you might break some clips, but you shouldn't damage the trim itself.

Gloyale, probably true about the LCAs. Just easier

Don't forget to replace the rear main crank seal while you're doing this work. Pain to have to do it later again to save the small cost of a seal.

Have you lifted either a manual or even heavier auto trans? While it looks like there's more to remove off the engine to get it out, they are all a heck of a lot easier with access & not either lying on your back or bending above your head. And while you can simply drop the trans on the ground, you need to lift it up to reinstall it. Try benchpressing 60kg, assuming you can get it up onto your chest in the first place, & then you need to line up the input shaft spline onto the clutch. This can be a pain no matter what, but more so when you're holding something up, not have it hanging off a hoist. An EA81 can be lifted by one strong person. 2 people can lift it out of the bay. Done it on the side of a road when the rear main crank seal blew. But a beam/tree branch with a thick rope is enough. BTW, if you lift up the car, you still need to support it on stands, not just by the wheels, because the front LCAs need to be moved to get the driveshafts out of the trans, so those get in the way. The engine is heaps easier because you're working from on top, the access is infinitely better, and the working height is also easier (ie not lying on your back under a car that's accumulated 30 years of gunk)

Be ready to cut & section the front chassis rails as the EA82 is so much wider than the EA81. I've heard stories of the EJ motors fitting in between the rails without mods, but not sure how true this is. EJ is narrower than the EA82 though

If you're talking to your mechanic about this, make sure you tell him to pull the engine to change the clutch, not the trans. It's much easier & most mechanics are just thinking for normal cars & don't get this. If he doesn't believe you, then describe this: engine removal (99% of which is done from above without a hoist needed): unplug electrical connections unplug fuel lines "unplug" throttle cable remove radiator unbolt A/C compressor & move to the side (if you have one) unbolt power steer pump & move to the side (if you have one) unbolt exhaust from engine unbolt engine stay above trans undo engine mounts from crossmember undo 4 engine to trans bolts pull engine up as opposed trans removal (99% of which is done from underneath & requires heavy lifting jacks & hoist/ramps & still requires you to work on the clutch from underneath): undo clutch cable undo speedo cable undo electrical connections remove exhaust remove tailshaft undo front lower ball joints/LCAs remove front driveshafts from trans unbolt both shifter linkages remove crossmembers unbolt engine stay above trans undo 4 engine to trans bolts lower heavy trans down & drag it out of the way Anyone who's done this job before at home wil know that the entire clutch replacement can be done in as little as 3 hours with hand tools by pulling the engine, but with the added advantage of great access to the flywheel for power/air tools at chest height if wanted. 3AT are garbage IMHO

True, tho the low range for 99% of the models is the same the that for the RXs in this model, only 1.19:1. Pretty useless. Finding the 1.59:1 low in an EJ box is extremely difficult & conversions are done using the low range from these models. But true that's easier when you're starting with a dual range trans. Shorter 4.444 diffs are an easy gain also. I'd happily swap a couple of dual range Liberty/Impreza/Foresters for a good RX 3 door

None of our RXs are AWD (although AWD wasn't used by Subaru until about 93, they used the term "full-time 4WD"), so it depends on the market as to what transmission was used. It wouldn't surprise me that maybe very early RXs in the US had the part time 4wd trans. I'm trying to fit the kit to a wagon & want to lengthen the rear sides so they fit better.

Well, I'm in Australia & I doubt can buy a full kit anymore here. Pretty much everyone here has moved onto Liberty (Legacy), Imprezas & Forester for off roading. Any L series still used for 4wding are already kitted out. Others in good condition are being cleaned up and kept for on road use only.

^^^ This man should know. The most disassembled EA82 for rebuild I've even seen

The transmission casings are identical, so it'll fit directly into the hole & bolt up to everything. You don't mention if your current box is single range or dual range. If it's single range, swap over the vacuum lines. The actuators work the same way. You'll need to install the dual range lever & console into your wagon. They'll bolt directly in. You can either keep your existing gearstick, or use the RX one with it's switch. The wiring for the RX switch & your existing gearstick switch are the same (whether they simply swap plugs I don't know). And check the 2 rear diff ratios. Tho you'll want the LSD from the RX anyway BTW, no such thing as part-time AWD. Its part-time 4wd. Bit of a difference Does the RX have the skirt kit? I'm searching for the rear side pieces if you're going to be stripping it...

And another way, which is the full, proper way of the lift is to space the body completely off the suspension, including the rear. A full kit here (and there were different schools of thought depending on which state you're from) would include: front end: engine cross member spacers x2 replacement (exchange) radius rod mounts x2 (more on this later) steering shaft extender (specify whether power steer or not) x1 gearbox crossmember spacers x2 tailshaft centre bearing spacers x2 rear end: "moustach" bar (diff rear support) spacers x2 rear crossmember spacers x4 (or x6 depending on the type) fuel pump spacer x1 Kits here were either just solid aluminium blocks, or steel box with crush tubes welded in. At the front end of the rear crossmember, the bolts are at very different heights. The steel kits put a welded brace between the blocks to help with rigidity. Now to the radius rod mounts. If you feel that the radius rods are under too much stress & want to do something about this, don't just use spacers with longer bolts. Take out your plates (or get a spare set), weld tubes onto the upper side of the plates (with a big enough internal hole so that the original bolt with a socket will fit inside) weld a washer onto the end of each of those (actually easier to do this welding first) which has a suitable hole for the original bolt So the idea is that you use the original bolts (except for the trans crossmember) to bolt this piece to the car. This area is under a lot of load and longer bolts will eventually bend when hitting stuff as small as potholes. The original mounts have enough problems with pulling nuts out of the chassis. This is why most people now don't bother and leave the plates alone and the bushes under additional stress.

Jono, isn't that just the sensor for the fast idle? I thought there was another senson down on the manifold where the coolant passes between the heads. Though its been a while since I actually looked at anything Subaru related so I could be mistaken Opus, I mean get the electrical plug that fits into one of the fuel injectors. It should be the same fitment as the CTS plug, but being black, that plastic is more heat resistant than the white ones (I guess its the type of plastic) so won't be brittle & smash when you try to release the metal retaining clip. You'll need to release the wires from inside the plug to change them, but you can see how that works when you break the white one This is all irrevelant if Jono is right though about the sensor location.

You're talking about the CTS for the ECU, or the gauge? The one for the gauge is on the front of the motor, single wire coming out of the loom that goes down to the oil pressure sensor/sender. The CTS for the ECU is on the manifold on the left half of the motor. 2 wires with a plug that is the same as the injectors. I think it's white, which will make it extremely brittle after 28 years. Be ready for it to break. Get a spare black one from an injector & remove the wires.