wagonist

No problem. You're new and keen to learn. And also willing to have a look over the car first & then ask intelligent questions, which I personally much prefer over people who just ask inane questions on the internet without bothering trying to do some research first. The properly built lift kits here either use solid aluminium bar, or square tube (cos the full kits lower the cross member the same amount as the suspension) with crush tube welded in across the holes for strength. I wouldn't recommend just using bar without strengthening because they can twist sideways under loads and end up looking like a rhombus (spelling?). The LCA is attached to the engine crossmember, so when it gets lowered, so will those. The radius rod goes through a plate which also holds the front gearbox crossmember. These need to be spaced down also.

You can use a 4 wire off a Spider manifold engine, as there is a common earth wire that branches to both of the 2 & 3 plugs. But the 3 pin is missing the "potentiometer" part, and only has idle & full throttle switches. Not sure why you can't find one, all of the 88- MPFI cars should have one. Could post you one from here

If you have power steering, then you'll already have the double universal jointed steering connector. Look below near the brake booster, & you'll see a thick shaft coming out of the firewall. Because it changes direction to mate to the steering rack itself, it needs this joint. Because the steering rack is bolted to the bottom of the engine crossmember, if you lower that, then you also lower the steering rack & move it away from the shaft into the cabin. Therefore, a connector needs to be put in the middle. Follow the link I posted & you'll get some ideas. If the Legacy one is longer, I like that idea vs the extension piece commonly supplied with lift kits. Suspension members refers to any part that moves (compared with the car) when the wheels go up & down. There are 2 on either side for the front. A folded metal bar that goes directly across (commonly called the Lower Control Arm or LCA), and the round bar going back at an angle (called the radius rod here, not sure what in the US)

mileage? Usually do injectors about 100 000km/60k miles If you can remove them yourself (which can be a bit of a fiddly job), costs about AUD$100 to get done. Much more with labour to remove & replace vs others cars with a single, easily accessible fuel rail (which is why they don't usually get done in Subarus)

Just had a rethink. cars without power steering or A/C run a different alternator that sits further back & has a double pulley so they still run 2 belts for the water pump still. So considering the small expense of a belt, may be worthwhile replacing that belt also to ensure the water pump remains working.

The water pump is also run by that belt But should be fine. Cars without both power steer and A/C only run 1 belt.

The only reason you may not want to weld them in place is if you're considering a lift kit. These are usually modified as part of that process. Quick fix is to weld them in place. I've known others to cut out that part of the chassis (they rust in that area also), and weld up new plates with nuts welded in behind. Just make sure its grinded back smooth so that the plates can be bolted back up hard against it.

When was the last time the injectors were removed & serviced? They gum up over time due to them being a magnetic device & need to be cleaned & demagnetised.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146910-extending-gl-steering-shaft/

Lowering the engine & tranny isn't just as simple as fitting spacers. You'll need to extend the steering shaft, or at least have the double uni jointed version (off a car with power steering). If you have aircon, then you'll need to check that radiator fan fitted to the engine doesn't foul on the wiring harness that runs across the car. The biggest point of having the lift kit is so that you can fit bigger wheels/tyres. Then you'll get back the lost ground clearance under the engine crossmember.

Tried following the links above, but it ended up at a bad page... The shifter bushes go bad all the time in these. They gradually wear away over the years, and people just get used to it gradually getting sloppier. The bushes are hidden away, so you mostly don't see them even when working on the car, and hence forget about them. Remove the centre console & then unscrew the rubber boot off the floor & you should see them. Also on the back of the gearbox

I'd say cheap mechanic/DIYer who couldn't be bothered spending money on something for a car they were going to get rid of... As said above, just replace the pulleys and you should be all sweet.

Why is the fuel system so ridiculous to you? The fuel pump under the bonnet looks like an EA82 type external pump anyway, which is more than adequate. It just depends whether the pump under the back can keep the feed up to it. Which considering that one is pushing against a vacuum will help. And doing it this way means that the fuel line sizes didn't need to be upgraded so badly. The EA82 EFI engines have a bigger fuel line than the carb version.

Offered on JDM models (some of the bumpers turn up here occasionally), and more likely northern European also. You also need a different washer bottle (it holds like 5L or something ;o) which has an extra postion with a really large pump (compared to the windscreen washer version), then flexible lines from that to the bumper with a T joint. I have a bumper at home I'm going to fit. You also need the switch & wiring. Factory, there's a timer so it only operates for a limited time when you press the button, but I'm simply go to have it run for however long I've got the button pressed. Got a bumper at home I'm fitting I can try to get a pic to show where the line run. Sorry for the hijack, Jono...

PVC? Seriously... There's a lot more force required than a PVC pipe would handle. Plus it's slightly compressible, it'd just be absorbing the force of the hammer.

That makes more sense. There's already forward facing park lights on the car, why have another set. I can understand on older cars that didn't have this. I learnt to drive in a 73 Crysler Valiant, and it's front (white) parkers were also the front indicators, and the rear (yellow) indicators were the reversing lights

Yep, seems LADM are the big bulge type also. I'll see if I can get a pic of the JDM vs ADM side by side on the weekend.

Finally got around to replacing the torn rubber boot on my dual range gearstick (but also with the push button 4wd knob) to the single range style. Much easier to knock the retianing pin out when the gearstick is on the bench rather than in the car

Do they flash? Is it a requirement that the ones in the bumper are on also with the headlights?

The "raised" amber part for the indicator is different heights for different markets. Aus ones are the tallest, I have a set of JDM ones which ave a smaller hump US spec are flat. The globes lighting up at once are caused by the US wiring which specifies that the front indicators are on with the headlights. Seems really stupid idea to me, but a good way to tell when lazy movie directors use US spec cars when the setting is supposed to be somewhere else (check out the tunnel drifting scene in Fast & Furious 3 ) I've got a set of Aus spec I'd like to swap for US spec ones (87- )...

Never tried I'd suggest getting them out of an EA81 model. They're probably different enough between the bodyshells. Though probably nothing that a big hammer, angle grinder & welder wouldn't fix

The XT engine harness separates out, so you can simply splice this into your loom. Most people cut a piece out of the engine cross member to clear the exhaust & weld a curved piece in. Done properly, it's just a strong as factory

I see the ad is closed, so not sure if you bought it or not. The only difference between the FWD shell & the 4wd shell is the centre bearing brackets are missing from the tranny tunnel in the FWD models. Cut them out of a wreck & weld them in. Everything else is bolt in changeable.

You can use the stuff of a FWD model, but the centre hole on the backing plate needs to be enlarged. These are a lot easier to find. The differences in the FWD & 4WD stuff is the hub & the backing plate centre hole, everything else is identical. Problem is, the 4wd hubs are the hardest thing to find....

But double check the diff ratio of the tranny you buy. Easy enough to do by removing the sump plug, spinning the shaft, and counting the teeth 39 teeth = 3.9 37 teeth = 3.7 All of our trannies after 87 were 3.7, so not everywhere is the same. And who knows after 20 years whether a tranny was still original