wagonist

Nice idea with the insulation. I'm going to do that now also when I reinstall the interior. Gets to 45 degrees Celcius here sometimes...

Yeah, but most new cars now under-read on their speedos. We used to have a +/- tolerance in the Aus design rules, but then 1 state started booking people for 3km/h over the limit (so not good at 110km/h), so now the tolerance is 0 to -10%, and most would err on the negative side just to be sure. You can still use another car's speedo as a reference, it'll still work.

Sorry to go off topic, but what's the go with your sig, Jono? Gone to China?

Electrical: Ign power to the switch 2 wires out of the switch (one for each: lock/unlock) to the 2 solenoids on the left strut tower solenoids are then earthed. Vacuum: vacuum signal from the intake manifold T's to each solenoid one line from each solenoied to each side of the vacuum canister If it's not working, check the cable actually moves. I've seen other stories on here about them rusting up. I've thought about replacing the vacuum parts with a wiper motor to push/pull the cable. Much like the high/low lever, you'd need to be constantly pushing on the lever to get it locked in if the dog teeth are not perfectly lined up. Leaving the system "automatic" allows this to happen by itself.

Score, I reckon. The gauge is a lot more useful than the light. The light should have a $ sign on it, cos once it goes on, something major has usually happened. Try to find yourself a cluster with the oil pressure gauge in it. It should plug straight in if you've already got a cluster with the tacho. Move the wire from the oil pressure light to the sender instead. Then find the wire in the dash that goes to the oil pressure light (below the cluster), and extend that to the correct pin on the back of the cluster. Presto, you now have a working factory oil pressure gauge.

Have got a pair of bright green connectors joined under the dash? If so, they're check connectors & shouldn't be joined during normal driving.

You could possibly fix the firewall as it's only on the side. The killer is that the roof is kinked, which means the windscreen frame, the floor up & the roof to the B pillar are now twisted. So now the right chassis rail through the engine bay will now not be parallel with the left side. You will forever be in a pain of hurt with not getting the wheels aligned, wearing them unevenly, wheel bearings, all kinds of problems. If a half million dollar supercar had a roof kink, and that was the only damage, an insurance company would write it off cos its just not fixable properly without replacing or straightening half the panels of the car after its been pretty much fully disassembled. keep it as an off road basher if you want, but on-road, forget it.

You're disagreeing because? I said the later model EA82 stuff will definitely fit onto the EA81 stuff. Which is what you've just said did. Not many people do the other way because it's a downgrade, but if kirzick wants to try it, then I'm sure he can let us know for sure

Except a Brat has the same running gear as an EA81 wagon, so of course it fits. Stuff got changed when Subaru changes bodyshells. I've heard of the brakes being interchangable between the models. Well at least fitting the bigger EA82 stuff onto an EA81.

Go to the wreckers & get the cluster from a car which already has an electronic speedo. late 90's Camry should be good Then you'll have a stepper motor that's capable of driving appropriately. Legacy & WRX turbos (not you're stupid SOHC EJ22T version, the ones with the proper DOHC EJ20T) with a 260km/h speedo were electronic, not cable driven, so the sender should fit directly into other Subaru trans. Or you could just go out and buy an aftermarket speedo kit which should be already set up to do everything you want...

And how far out are you expecting the tyres to sit? The offset is already pretty large on these cars. And you're going to need at least 20mm thickness on your adaptor to bolt them onto the hub, and then have the new studs retained... 99% of people I've seen either re-drill the standard hubs, or redrill 6x140 rims. Of course, if you could reproduce the factory part, that's a different story. And especially if you could do one for the rear to suit the disc brake rear end which has a spline then I'm sure you'll have a ready market for people wanting to convert to rear discs. The 4wd hub is the hardest thing to find (ie almost impossible).

no. cos the gearbox oil will all drain out the back where the tailshaft is supposed to go. The tailshaft is what seals the hole. Why are you worries about jack stands? Rusty chassis? putting tyres (on rims) under the sills helps as a backup. Or dig yourself a pit

Did you say you've got a bigger up pipe now? How much bigger? Cos bigger diameter with the same flow volume = less flow speed, which means less speed pushing onto the turbo blades. Tho if you haven't changed the turbo, then that hole will be the same size. Just spitballing here, not really sure if this would have any effect or not

I'd say that the "jumper" inside the cluster would have to switched before the "degrees C" indicator would show. Or maybe there's another jumper inside? The only country I can think of that would have Degrees C with MPH is the UK. Canada? Everywhere else is full metric or full imperial.

From his description, sounds like the 3AT with part time 4wd. Being a 93 means it's not a touring wagon (GL for you US peeps), which means it prob won't have the "4WD Auto" button. Fishboy, I may have the wiring & buttons left over at home to add that "4WD auto" function as my 88 Touring wagon started as an auto. It's just wires (that spider into a lot of stuff ) & a relay. But I've also done a cull & clean out so maybe not. Now just save up to do an EJ22 with 4EAT transplant

Jealous you guys got the sunroof. We only got it as an option on the 85 sedan... If anyone ever sees a factory sunroof that suits a touring wagon, I want to know

Has it had a transplant? Cos Aus never got an AWD/full time 4wd box in the L series. Is there an extra red button on the side of the gearstick? If so, then it's a part-time 4wd box which will be a 3 speed. Need to determine if its this box or the 4EAT which is basically the same as in the Liberty, and is better. But, both will use more fuel than a manual, the 3 spd more so because there's not the extra ratio.

What other gears? The vacuum solenoid would hold the gear change point depending on how much the throttle is pressed. ie open her up = give more vacuum in the intake = holds the shift point until later. Broken vacuum pipe = no vacuum = gearbox "thinking" you're only operating on very light throttle = it shifting as early as possible Considering there's always "vacuum" in the intake, even at idle, I suspect that the vacuum solenoid is designed to hold the gear shift (even at light load) to something higher than what you've got.

Depends which 5 speed you use depends which rear diff you need. FWD front diff were 3.4xx Turbo part-time 4wd 5spd had different spline counts on the trans stub axles. Everything else 4wd should be the same count, just different thickness shafts. You'll need to bridge the neutral safety switch on the auto gearstick. Should be the thick BW & BY wires (nice time to install a starter kill switch ) You'll need to wire up the reverse lights. Extend the wires from the auto stick through to the gearbox. If you want the 4wd light to work on the dash, need to find those wires & extend through to the trans also. If you're doing dual range, you need to get the switch that sits beside the low range lever (on pre 87 cars). Post 87 trans also had a switch on the trans, but I'm not sure if it was used or not. If you want to use the push-button system, the solenoids with be attached to the left strut tower. The wiring should unplug, though I'm not sure if the auto's had the wiring in the loom. Every manual 5spd I've seen here had a spare plug for this in the body harness. The wires off the gearstick just run along the floor & connect by the left kick panel. All you need is ign power to the gearstick, then 2 output wires from the stick to the solenoids (1 for each), then 2 earths from the solenoids. Plus you'll need the vacuum line from the engine to the solenoids

Have you checked the vacuum line running from the engine to the trans? I'm guessing cos of 85 that its a 3AT, which is vacuum operated for kickdown & other things. Checked the fluid level & quality recently? When was the trans filter last changed?

Yes, turbo. My hold up is trying to sort out the wiring as I'm going from EFI NA. Got the full NA Gen 2 loom, but the XT loom comes out of the engine in the wrong place to reach If you don't need the TB, then you could prob get a 90 elbow in there instead. And if you go pre-turbo with your carb, I've got the turbo to TB pipe for the spider manifold. Tho not sure how a plastic pipe would like the fuel mix

I remember those I've always liked the green one, but I've only ever seen one in RHD form, and that was at least 15 years ago... Does anyone have info on how to convert permanently the MPH & degrees F to km/h & degrees C? Were these available in Canada? And then also, the space where the speedo cable fits, I wonder if that's able to be modified. the RHD version comes on the other side of the cluster.

Other's will confirm, but yes, the spider manifold was only on the XT. I've got one I'm installing in my touring wagon, but leaving it petrol. The internal volume of the intake after the throttle body looks huge compared with the standard setup. I'm sure you've seen the EJ22's, it's pretty much the same. I think you'd have trouble mounting the carb in the space where the TB is, and anything further back interferes with the spare tyre bracket. I've already cut mine back so I can fit the heat exchanger of a Lib RS turbo intercooling system. I'm not sure how the airflow velocity would be in NA form, though I suppose the EJ motors seem to work.

Not all EJ cars have a diagonal split either. They went to front/rear at some point. I can look under a wreck here for you & post one. Our's might be very dusty, but never rusty.

Unfortunately, the tank you mentioned won't fit properly. I doubt the mounting holes line up. Even rarer I suspect is the XT/Vortex. That tank should fit. Weight wouldn't be a shipping problem, just the size. Just be careful when sourcing the tank. They are different for the carb & EFI models. Which do you need? Carb ones are very common over here, with the odd EFI coming up (we got EFI turbo from 85 to 87, then NA EFI in 89 & 90). But I daresay shipping from here will be more expensive than from the US, but ours will more likely not have any rust issues. The other option open to you if you know how to make one yourself is: Cut the tank in half horizontally (obviously fill it with water, etc & clean it VERY well so you don't get any sparks. Check out the floor of your tank & clean it as necessary. Find the holes & repair them properly. Reweld back to together. A few guys here with lift kits did this but added a strip of metal to increase the capacity.