wagonist

We have the same problem over here with the RHS buttons (cos they're reversed). We also tend to have to have some additional switches where you have the ribbed blanking plate (I guess its a blanking plate). I've had 2 cars where all 6 positions were filled. Sometimes too, if it's screwed in not quite right, the buttons get stuck, meaning the panel needs to be forced over, putting more pressure on the screws. I don't think it's climate related. I've lived in places where the summer temp was well over 45 degrees celcius. It's just a bad design. I've toyed with the idea of drilling through, getting some bolts & nuts, then along with hot glue, heating up the plastic so that the nut sticks to the back. Or a large fibreglass knob. The other thing I've done in the past is to screw that panel in while the shroud is still off the dash. The plugging it in when I'm reinstalling the shroud. It's a bit fiddly. And considering that way the dash pulls apart, this piece is supposed to come out forwards first when removing the shroud, whereas the heater controls stay in the dash, so it can't be screwed in the other way unfortunately. But I'm definitely going to be doing this cable tie addition to my current unbroken black shroud. These are now in very limited supply. Kudos for the idea & sharing it.

I'm glad that you found the problem, and I completely agree with the comments about adding relays. That makes a heck of a difference. DO IT Sorry if you think this is a "flame": Mykeys Toy, but to definitively say "it is not (in this case) the switch" is a really bad thing to tell someone else over the internet (especially a forum). Unless you've got some inside knowledge (eg you guys know each other & have spoken off the forum), how could you tell from the limited description that the switch wasn't the problem? I couldn't. It has been the problem on one of my previous cars, and so I suggested it be investigated. I didn't say it was the problem in this case, just could be. A lot of newbies read & search here, because the info is so good & everyone is so willing to help. So making a definitive answer about something is a bit frought with providing misinformation. Don't rule out something just because something different happened to you. Unfortunately, our cars are old and so exhibit a multitude of problems...

Yes, tells me the body looms are too different But I was kind of expecting to have to do a full loom replacement if I ever get to import a coupe... Easy when the whole car's apart anyway. I suspect a coupe loom isn't so different to a sedan loom. Just not connect the rear door switches, and hook up the tailgate open light. Though missing the rear wiper stuff. So prob easier to adapt a wagon loom instead. Then change the plug type for the rear lights.

Out of curiousity, how does the heater box switch between the positions? I've seen the US spec buttons up beside the heater temp control & I can't tell if they're electrical connections, or vacuum operated (like ours).

I'm sorry if this is a really stupid question, but you've taken the axle nut off, right? Newer cars don't need this done as the nut just holds the hub on, but these subes need it gone. Apart from that, sounds like the pads have worn a lip onto the edge of the drum & you need to back them off.

I like that, good write up I said to take the carrier to the wrecker, because Honda used that style of caliper on a number of different models (Accord, Legend, Integra, ...) all through the 90s. But they're not all the same. You've only mentioned one model, which is now very old. Doing it my way gives the chance to get newer parts from a wider range of vehicles (some of which aren't available in every country). I don't know if you did the same, but I used the left Honda caliper on the right side, and vice versa. Makes the handbrake cable line up better. And seeing as you got custom cables done, why not just get uber long ones that fit up to the Subaru lever? I ran them forward through the tunnel, & then looped them back 180 degrees over the top of the trans where the tunnel starts to get a bit wider. Looks neater (& factory ) Definitely agree with the comment about braking power though. These are only to move the handbrake to the back. If you want a brake increase then work out how to fit Legacy, etc brakes. STi Brembos are a possibility if you want

If you're going to cross drilled, make sure they're good quality. A lot of rotors crack between the drill holes. Better to go with slotted only IMHO. I've got some mid 90s Honda calipers on the rear of my car. bolt the floating brake part (which holds the pads) onto the Subaru carrier. Easiest way it to take your rear calipers apart & then take the carrier to the wrecker & pull off various Honda calipers till you find the correct one. You'll have to do some modification of the cables and/or lever to make the rear handbrake work though.

I wasn't sure about the LHD - RHD wiring. I've just noticed the under dash fuse box on the LHS, plus there are still a block of multi pin plugs on the LHS... So seems that Subaru have done different LHD & RHD body looms They started to become modular with the Legacy. On pre 90 (carb) models here, the base model DL has all the wiring to simply plug in the GL accesories & dashboard, but post 90 models are missing those wires. Been mucking around with Hyundais for the last few years, and post 00 models are definitely adapted for RHD from their original LHD. The thing I've noticed is that Japanese cars made for RHD are remanufactured for LHD, but LHD cars (particularly Europe, but also Korea) are only adapted for RHD. My project car has been in this state for about 4 years now... I need to reattach the roof skin to the roof cross supports before I get any further

true. The turbo stuff comes out with the engine. Still reckon the engine is easier to pull than the trans. And I forgot about undoing the air intake, exhaust and power steer lines... Each to their own with the rear main. I had one fall out of a borrowed EA81 engined car on a freeway with no break down lane... Caused it to require a rebuild Much easier to replace at home when you have the tools

That is an AWESOME pic. complete with "Turning Traffic" Sign Guess they turned a little early

Why? remove radiator undo heater hoses unbolt mount (but not the lines) from Aircon compressor & set to the side unplug harnesses undo 4 bolts engine - trans undo 1 bolt for stay rod engine - firewall undo 2 engine mount bolts pull engine easy I'm sure I've forgotten something

You've got the crank pulley off? Or is this the one you're having troubles with?

Word of warning re the timing belts. the bolts the hold the 2 covers together have a tendency for the insert in the back one to simply spin inside the plastic, and hence not undo. And hence the need for a good vocabulary Be prepared to either break them out of the rear covers, or grind the bolt heads off so the covers will come off. Even better, see if you can get some replacement rear covers from the wrecker (with intact inserts) as spares, and then use cable ties to hold them back on instead of the bolts.

It's only a spare. just make sure you put it on the back & leave the front ones as the same size. And obviously don't go driving all the way across the country with the spare on

ok, now I'm confused by what you mean about "plastic housing" vs "glass housing" All of our lights have a glass lens on the front with a chrome plastic reflector.

Yes, Aus got these lights too. Doesn't make them any better at giving out light We've often put in relays close to the lights & give them a better power feed rather than all the way from the dashboard.

I've never seen behind the dash of a LHD car before. VERY interested to see the 3 big multi wire plugs hanging off the RHS. These are in the same spot for the RHD cars. ditto, the power window plug, even the wires that run up the A pillar. Can you please post a picture of the plugs on the LHS of the dash & also of the back of your dash skin? I've always wanted to get a 3 door, but finding a RHD model from Japan is pretty much impossible. I thought that Subaru would've changed the body wiring for LHD & RHD models, but it seems maybe not so much... Makes a LHD - RHD conversion so much easier. Change a few holes on the firewall & change the 2 brackets that hold the steering column & Air con evaporator. Don't know why people don't know how this looks I can get a full car to this point (maybe still with seats & carpet still in) in about 20 minutes...

rear main seal bit of a pain cos you need to either remove the engine (easiest IMHO) or gearbox

Um, isn't the carb feed line down on the chassis rail? The EFI one is up the top. There are 3 lines, those 2 plus one sitting on top of the chassis rail. From my memory (it's been a while since I had a carb version): on carb feed line is on the rail the one on the right you've pictured is the return line the other one is for the tank breather on EFI models: the other one stays the same the right one of the 2 you've pictured gets changed to a much larger one for the fuel feed the one on the chassis rail stays the same but becomes the return line for the EFI

Is this her telling you she put it in the correct place, or she showed you where she put it? Makes a difference. Don't forget, she didn't know that oyu could put too much oil in.

I'd obviously like to find a supplier closer to home When you were trying to find that supplier, what were you asking of people? Or did you just do an internet search (the US is much more switched on with online shopping than we are... )

There is an exemption. 30+ years in the state I live. Some others its 25+ However, I suspect that the government will change the rules soon. We got a lot of the "grey imports" from Japan, because we're also RHD. These usually require a lot of "compliancing" work to be allowed, but we used to have a rule that any import 15+ years old didn't need most of this stuff except needed to be RHD & "roadworthy". In 2002, the government realised that Japan suddenly introduced a LOT of high HP car in 1989. Subaru Legacy GT, Toyota Supra twin turbo, Nissan Skyline GTR, ... So the rule got changed to pre 1989... Quite a few people were annoyed, particularly those looking at importing the 1993 Ford Escort Cosworth. I've heard of someone in Aus who has owned a Ferrari F40 since new, who is looking forward to be allowed to register it for the first time in this country as a historic vehicle Now it's coming up to 25+ years... So it wouldn't surprise me if this rule gets changed also...

The other trick we do is to use cable ties instead of the bolts to tie the covers together. There are a few bolts on the centre cover that screw into metal, the rest are into inserts mounted in the plastic. Use the cable ties for those which are on the inserts. Better than bolts & better than leaving them off

The light backing (I'm guessing this is the "buckets" you refer to) are metal in the US? Been interested in doing somekind of light conversion (but more likely quad rounds) into the lights here, but our buckets are plastic. I'm not sure if this meant just starting with making some new fibreglass moulds or not. This gives another option. But will have to be a lot more careful about separating the lens from the buckets. Really curious about polishing the back of the lens tho. Can you give a bit more of a detailed description about how you used the drill press. I've got many spare headlights here somehow, so not too worried about having some sacrificed

It wasn't bad, I bought it as a written off hail damaged car & the price included a respray. Wanted it in yellow/silver, but that was "too hard"... Tell you what, I'll find a rust-free touring wagon to send over, and you find me a rust free coupe to send over Gut the firewalls of each to convert over to our needed requirements dreaming....