wagonist

It was a known problem over here (we only got turbo EA82 for the 1st series) with the fuel pump earth wire, which runs back through the ECU. I had this problem also. Disconnected that wire & simply earthed the fuel pump to the body instead. Super cheap & easy fix. At least to try first.

Can you manually move the cable? I've seen other queries of the same problem on here where it ended up that the cable between the diaphragm & selector was seized inside the sleeve.

I'd be surprised if the coolant temp sensor would stop an engine starting. I've had problems with the tacho wire on the coil before. Because this also gives a signal to the ECU that the engine is sparking. It would crank, but not fire the injectors. Will check my engine when I get home about the location of hte sensor, but it's tucked way down on the coolant crossover pipe that joins the heads together and is tucked up under the inlet manifold.

That looks neat. I used to have a Touring wagon which I got painted in the original green at the top (where yours is white), with silver down the bottom. Though I didn't do the bumpers & rubbing strips. Doing kind of project again & struggling what to do with the paint scheme around the bumpers. The rear bumper on the wagon doesn't line up with the rest of the car And our front blinkers are higher up in the bumper, breaking up the factory "paint line" on the higher spec cars, instead of the top of the blinker lining up with it... After seeing yours, I'm thinking of just painting everything, including the full bumpers & rubbing strips. Just leave the chrome strips exposed. Did you pull the mirrors apart to get the paint different colours on different parts?

I saw that & thought it was a convertible But then wondered about the B pillars. Seems a waste & looks ugly IMHO, but each to his own. We can't all have the same car One day, I still want to make a Brat/Brumby from a "Loyale" wagon using the doors & side panels from a coupe, then top half of the wagon tailgate for the back window, with the bottom half for the tailgate. The tray would be tiny doing it this way though... And getting the doors/side panels down under would be ridiculously expensive

I know for castor, I need to do something with the radius rods I'm not sure about the later steering racks, but I have tried a 93 Impreza rack in mine when I was half way through an EJ20T conversion. The knuckle for the column was at a different angle (more vertical), which meant the uni joint was at too great an angle.

Or he's got a good radiator and doesn't drive in heavy traffic But I'd be checking the switch, they do go bad.

I meant the turbos are the same as MPFI EFI, but I keep forgetting about the SPFI engine. Subaru didn't bother bringing that engine to Aus (and rightly so, IMHO )

I mean to the left when you're standing in front of the car, its the right side of the car.

Nope, the blocks are the same as NA EFI, so no need. Only the pistons (and valves depending on the model) are different. The dipstick should be on the front of the motor, just to the left of the crank pulley.

there should be a wider "flange" on the hoses, the o-rings seat up against them. I'm not sure if the LHD models have this, but is there a small bracket between the lines down near where they bolt into the rack? If so, remove that bracket when putting the lines back into the rack. It makes them so much easier to line up & get the nuts started. Be thankful that your steering column is on that side of the car. With the column running on the other side, turbo models cook that uni joint...

Interesting to see the trip computer on the later model where the ash tray should be. Bet that option was never taken up in Japan

The switch to change only changes the MPH to kph, not the odometer (which is still a dial), nor the twin "trip memters". My Jap spec cluster didn't have this button. I think it's only for the north american market because the US in the MPH & Canada has kph I'm guessing that there is something built into the circuitry to determine what reading they show.

Sorry to get off topic, but please explain this "washer mod" to the crossmember. I've been trying to look into ways of increasing both camber & castor a bit.

I'm with Jono on this. Only cars with air con got the viscous fan. Just cos it spins all the time doesn't mean there's load on it and it's doing any good. The fluid inside the fan heats up and makes it provide cooling. The electric fan is activated by a temp sensor, or if aircon is fitted, by the aircon being turned on. Try living somewhere that reaches >45 degrees Celcius (well over 100 F) in summer and then tell me that the viscous fan is the primary I've known a large number where that fan got tossed & replaced with a 2nd electric one.

If you're going to swap to a digital dash then it is recommended to change the dash loom also. I'm not sure about the US spec models, but the Japanese version I had from a half cut, I needed to change the whole car's loom, as the wires in the plugs where the dash loom met the car loom were in very different locations. Australia didn't get the digital dash as an option (we never even got the volts/oil pressure gauges ), but the 2 cars I saw (mine as an 85 Series 1 orange dash, and a friends 89 series 2 green dash) built from japanese half cuts, both had trip computers. BTW, I once bought a digital instrument cluster from the US because I thought mine wasn't working properly. Ended up returning it, but the MPH & degrees Fahrenheit (for the outside temp display) couldn't be changed to metric.

BTW, as a newbie, you may not realise that 1984 was when Subaru changed bodyshells. So if you're going to ask for help, you need to clarify whether you've got the earlier shape or the later one like in your link. There was a GL model in both bodystyles. While some parts are interchangable, others are radically different. It will help people to help you.

What do you mean "switch into 4wd"?

EJ front springs will hit the inside of the struts towers without a lift kit on full steering lock. They are a bigger diameter. Use coilovers to suit an EJ car for the front. Some of the later Legacys use a rear shock absorber, not a strut. These can be made to fit these. Sorry, can't remember which model.

Is your's the same body shape? if so, then yes. If it's the earlier one, it can be made to fit, but I don't think it's a bolt in swap.

Put the car in neutral whilst still moving & see if the noise is still there.

Sorry to highjack, but that sounds more like the headlight switch, rather than the lights themselves. The contacts get worn or dirty over time.

The problems of getting trim? It's called "online auction sites" using the internet Makes the world smaller. I've got a factory ground effects kit from a Coupe shipped here from the US via this forum Who's to know what previous owners have really done to our cars (and hence how "oringal" they really are)? I'm a bit surprised to see the full time 4wd trans with centre diff lock with only single range. We only got that trans in the Vortex (XT). The Vortex was the only full time 4wd Subaru available in Oz until the Liberty (Legacy)

Get a spare axle nut, cut 4 grooves across the thread a few millimetres wide, use a file to shape down the end of axle so the nut can start, then use the nut to recut the thread. Next time, leave the nut on there (with the washers removed) when you've got to beat it out...

I'm curious why everyone is assuming that the door trims are even original. They're only held on by a couple of clips on the later models. It's a 15 year old car If you've driven in Spain, you might understand what I mean. I've got a Series 2 Touring wagon which I'm going to be putting Series 1 mouldings on (cos I've got "Subaru" mouldings from an RX Turbo, and the paint line join on the front bumper looks crap on the Series 2 with our differently positioned front indicators)