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wagonist

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Everything posted by wagonist

  1. wagonist
    Not a lot of info to work on there... So, I'm guessing you've undone all 6 bolts. And now I'm guessing that it's loose, but hung up on something, like the rear diff If so, means that you need to get a jack under the rear diff, and undo the 4 bolts that hold the rear diff support (moustache bar) to the chassis, then lower the diff. But I'm only guessing. Always helpful to post up lots of details about what the problem is. We're not mind readers
  2. wagonist
    Seriously? How about turbo models? They were all EFI. There were other changes for EFI rather than just the tank. The EFI models had a bigger diameter fuel feed line. The line down on the left side chassis rail becomes the return line & one of the upper lines was replaced to become the feed line. It would be preferable to get someone to make this up for you. A brake shop should be able to recommend somene. It's the same type of piping. There is room under the back seat to install an external swirlpot sideways. Get the original Carb pump to feed it, then use an EFI pump after that. Alternatively, search for the tank, pump + bracket, lines from elsewhere in Europe (Scandinavia seems to still have a few)
  3. wagonist
    sedan, wagon, coupe: yes The xt (vortex) has a different one for clearance
  4. wagonist
    Front wheel shake isn't usually a pad problem, it's usually a brake rotor(s) warped, bad wheel bearing(s), or loose/worn steering tie rod(s) problem or combinations of... Considering the shape of your pads, I'd say the 2nd one.
  5. wagonist
    Miles: do you mean dealer fitted cruise, or the factory cruise? The factory cruise will have an on/off switch on the left side, with 2 buttons on the steering wheel near the horn pad. From the pics, this car isn't fitted with the factory system.
  6. wagonist
    Have you dismantled the door switches? They are metal contacts and gunk up over the years, meaning the contact faces no longer conduct electricity. Done this to a few cars now. And while you've got the door trims off, test the window motors by connecting directly to a battery.
  7. wagonist
    Do you need to replace the hubs, or just the wheel bearings?
  8. wagonist
    If you want to go 5 lug, then yes, just get the entire rear suspension off an XT6, although the XT6 arms won't have the wagon bumpstops (but you can cut these off & weld them) Don't forget to include the large round tube under the rear seats, these have an extra bracket to hold up the diff in the 4wd models. Front drivehsafts varied in shaft thicknesses depending on the model (although for some reason I think the FWD ones are thicker ) All of the captive nuts will already be in the chassis for the extra parts of the rear suspension. The only thing missing from your chassis are the brackets that hold up the centre bearing for the tailshaft. Cut these out of a wreck and get them welded on.
  9. wagonist
    remove the plastic inner guard, or at least enough to get access
  10. wagonist
    sheesh, why couldn't they pick one convention for everyone Aus didn't get that switch, only the 3 position version (off, parker, headlights), but I once did an 85 JDM half cut conversion which had that extra position switch. Could still turn the parkers and headlights on normally without the ignition, but sounded an alarm if the ignition was off (sounded like a phone ), turn to the left bypassed the dashboard lights & the alarm.
  11. wagonist
    For those who haven't had a pre 87 & post 87 car, it's because Subaru started ignition switching the headlights & parkers so they turned off with the ignition. For safety reasons, there needs to be a way to turn on the parkers regardless of the ignition switch position. Although, the position of the hazard switch is crummy on the 88- models. How's the passenger supposed to reach it if there's an emergency?
  12. wagonist
    Have you checked the battery terminals? If you're getting nothing at all, the terminals could be slightly loose, and then they can make contact again later. Also, all automatics will start in both Park & Neutral. Otherwise how do you restart a stalled engine when you're still rolling...?
  13. wagonist
    Be careful welding the centre bearing mounts onto the body. The floor skin isn't the thickest and there's a good chance you'll have the carpet underlay catch fire. My first car was a sedan converted from FWD to AWD (Legacy gearbox) with a custom 1 piece tailshaft, but then fitted a full-time 4wd box and needed to get those brackets welded on. Easiest way was to bolt the brackets to the tailshaft, then fit up the tailshaft to the rear diff & gearbox, push the tailshaft up into the tunnel so the brackets sit flush, then tack weld them up. Unbolt the tailshaft & weld up properly (they're normally only spot welded on anyway). Jealous of of these places that have the coupe available. I think there's only 2 or 3 that got privately imported later into Aus
  14. wagonist
    A lot of your problems seem to stem from the combination switch on the steering column. I know that the hazard switch on the series 2 (88-) isn't in that part, but the wiring connects back through the indicators, which are there. ditto parkers, etc. Maybe it is worthwhile borrowing another one, plugging it in instead, to check it? Jono, was the unused 3 pin plug a pink colour? If so, that's where the power windows loom plugs in. It's completely separate and runs under the carpet.
  15. wagonist
    I think you need to have a better look at the instrument cluster and learn how circuit boards work. The pics you've posted for the cluster are not for the gauges... Also, there will be some stamping on one of the "tracks" behind where the tacho goes saying "Tach". Trace it along the board...
  16. wagonist
    Do you have a full time 4wd trans, or a part time 4wd? It's not clear. But if you're talking about a switch, I suspect full time 4wd. Either way, just lock it in. You'll be on & off the dirt enough that any binding caused by being on tarmac will "unwind" itself when you hit the dirt. Locked centre + locked rear will make the rear slide more predictably.
  17. wagonist
    You can pull the electronic portion off the shifter & just permanently join the 2 thickest wires together. The 3 speed auto has no electronic brain and isn't connected to the engine ECU in any way. Under the dash up near the steering column & fuse box, there should be 2 bright green plugs with no locking clips. I can't remember how many wires are actually in the plug, but if you plug them together, and (I forget the next bit) then the ECS light will flash for different things when the ignition is at "ON" (without engine running), and also with the engine running. I'm sure there's info on here about what the codes will mean.
  18. wagonist
    If you pulled some of the brackets off holding the 3 accessories, you'll find subtle differences between the XT parts & the rest. Just enough to make them not compatible But I've got all the stuff for the V belts (including a modified aircon bracket to suit the spider intake manifold), and cos I've got a wagon I don't have the bonnet clearance issues. But it's good to know that the timing mark is still on the flywheel. I can see that access is difficult, but not impossible. See how it goes with an intercooler sitting up there also tho
  19. wagonist
    skidplate for rear diff rubber flaps mounted under the rear suspension in front of the CV joints. These are prone to having stuff thrown at them by the front wheels double skin the front plastic inner guards. ie just get another pair & fit them over the top. Or make some out of the same material as you used for the mudflaps. The last thing you need is for a rock or stick to punch through the wiring loom leaving you stranded... Weld up the rear diff to make it a locker
  20. wagonist
    Are there spots where you can see that the other 2 holes would be? You could drill & tap those. But it would mean removal of the heads and accurately drilling & tapping them.
  21. wagonist
    the sensor is down on the "Y" pipe join of the front exhaust (sorry, the SPFI was never sold here)? The harness plug should be near where the body harness meets the gearbox harness underneath the spare tyre
  22. wagonist
    I'm swapping over the engine as I'm changing from a carb fed NA EA82 to the EA82T. I'll leave the pointer on the front of the engine, then I'll confuse any mechanics The issue with putting a mark on the pulley is that the multi rib crank pulley has a locating stud so it can only be positioned uniquely onto the crank, the V belt pulley doesn't have this stud. I know this is a simply job of drilling a hole in this pulley, then pressing in & spot welding in the locating stud, but this needs to be done reasonably accurately...
  23. wagonist
    So the fitting of a different water pump, different power steer pump with different mounting bracket and different power steer lines, different aircon compressor with different bracketry, different alternator and different mounting bracket is next to no work? That's almost everything that an accessory to the engine... The XT has multi tib belts (so all the pulleys are different), the Loyale has 2 V belts.
  24. wagonist
    agreed with the above. The rears are held in with a pin either end instead of going through the hub. knock out the pins jack up the car leave the wheel on, then undo the bolt holding the strut to the suspension arm they get lots of dirt & rust into the splines so be ready to use lots of lubricating spray and/or heat on the CV joint put weight on the wheel downwards and the arm should move enough to allow the CV to get clear of the splines. Before you go changing the CVs, now spin the wheel and you should get a feeling of how good/bad the wheel bearing is. If you really have to, you can leave the rear axles out (by locking the centre diff on full-time-4wd models manual gearbox, or putting in the "FWD" fuse for full-time 4wd autos)
  25. wagonist
    Use bigger diameter studs and retap the holes in the heads? Obviously drill out the exhaust flange to suit.
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