wagonist

Apparently another trick is to turn over the strut top mounts and use them upside down

Or you could climb under the car, undo the plugs where they join the switches, get a multimeter on the "resistance" setting, and make up your own diagram I'm guess a 5spd, dual range, part time 4wd trans? Because I can remember that there at least 8 different manual transmissions in the L series depending on spec... If so, you'll at least have: reverse light power reverse light signal 4wd power 4wd signal low range power low range signal neutral switch power neutral switch signal earth

The hole in that logic is that there was a lot of extra work done to fit the EA82 under the bonnet (hood) of an XT vs the L series/Loyale. But I agree that it's only really the spider manifold that has the problem the relocated throttle body, which causes access issues for the timing mark hole on the back of the engine. So this might be a sufficiently small number that they left the marks on the flywheel. I'll try to spin the engine over and check for the marks, but this is a bit hard to do by myself

I'm installing an EA82T Spider manifold into my 88 Touring Wagon. The engine didn't come with any accessories like power steer pump, Aircon compressor, alternator. The XT stuff is difficult to come by here in Aus, so I'm aiming to swap all of the pulleys over from my existing engine. I know this involves changing the water pump over also. But my question is about the crank pulley. The XT version has a balancer and timing marks on it, the wagon version doesn't because the timing marks are on the flywheel. Does the spider manifold engine still have timing marks on the flywheel, or am I going to need to get my V belt pulley modified?

NZ only gets all of those engines cos you have no restrictions on 2nd hand imports from Japan. Japan has registration rules that mean engines over 2L are taxed more heavily. Subaru Japan never sold an EJ22 Legacy, so therefore NZ never got them either. Aus never got a DOHC NA EJ20 until about 2005, and even then I'm not sure. So we mainly use the EJ22 & EJ25 also. The DOHC 2L is way better than the SOHC EJ22, so if you've got access, then use it. Although I still curious why Subaru America made the bastardised EJ22T for the first model Legacy. At least Subaru Aus left the DOHC EJ20T in our RS models.

And be prepared for the bolts holding the side timing covers on to have their nuts spin... use cable ties to put them back on

Seriously, no towing? Subaru Australia offered towbar fitment at the dealer for the Brumby You might want to google "towbar fitment Subaru Brumby" to see what is still available here in Aus. Off the shelf, even with shipping, might still be cheaper than custom made there.

Depends, what year model Legacy? Some have the engine wiring plugs on the front left side of the engine, some are at the back. The body wiring are different LHD to RHD because of the underdash fusebox and position of the steering column, but the engine compartment layout is identical except for: brake booster & master position which only effects the vacuum line length. RHD version have a long hard line running across the firewall. The vacuum feed is on the LHS of the engine. Pretty much irrelevant for a conversion. Aircon line routing. RHD versions have all the aircon lines running on the LHS of the car, not around the engine bay like LHD versions (makes removing the engine/gearbox so much easier than what you guys have to put up with ) Again, irrelevant for a conversion as you need to adapt the 2 flexible lines going to/from the compressor on the engine only, then leave the rest of the Loyale A/C system in place steering rack postion. Again irrelevant because you keep the Loyale stuff heater box. These are not quite in the middle of the car and so vary slightly LHD to RHD. But again irrelevant because you'll be keeping the Loyale heater box. It's just 2 rubber hoses. The position of the coolant feed on the engine is the same for both LHD & RHD. Basically, the engines are the same, the engine bay layout is the same for your purposes. You're going to have to do custom wiring for the engine to run, so just make it to suit.

Look for splines inside the middle of the hub. Those are 4wd ones. If there's no spline, they're the FWD version. The centre hole on backing plates on the FWD verison is also smaller. The discs & calipers are the same. First I've heard of needing mods or suspension swap? The brake lines from the car to the caliper need to be changed and fixed to the arm, but I've never heard of anything else needing to be done. Interested to find out.

I can't believe how naked (and wrong) the EJ looks without an aircon compressor. It looks like something's missing (which it obviously is:lol:) I may be getting a "race-prepared" (ie gutted) 85 carb FWD sedan. EA82T, disk brake rear end with swaybar, Honda rear calipers (for the handbrake), 5 stud conversion with EJ brakes for the front are planned. Should be hell quick at sub 800kg:grin:

Awesome work, but I'm confused. Why the blue lexan with red paint? Why not red lexan? I know that the XTs did not change cluster from the pre 87.5 to the later models, but the L series did. The cluster went from the bright orange like the XT where everything was visible all the time, to a green version which looked black when nothing was on. That later version looks classy to me. I'm curious now into looking at changing the early cluster to fit the later green/black version, but I've got no idea what the covering would've been to make it black.

Personally I prefer the green one. Not so techie & more refined IMHO

Nope, not plug and play for any car. The dashboard loom & plugs are different. XTs are a different matter.

I can't understand why it won't work:confused: All my early (orange) digi dash had was the standard tacho wire from the negative side of the coil into the back of the cluster. You'd think the later ones would work better because the tacho signal comes from the ECU standard. I've also had a standard tacho running off the ECU signal from an EJ20T ECU before.

You want to PM me the list & I'll see what I can do? Even though my local dealer has now gotten used to someone trying to find parts for a 20 year old car, don't get too hopeful. I do believe that the factory ECU is reprogrammable though.

Reinforcing: The first obvious one is between the strut towers & the firewall. Those seams come apart.

No intercoolers. Not allowed under Group A rules. Why is that number so hard to believe? My 2.0L turbo Toyota 4 cylinder (3S-GTE) produces 280hp (191kW) standard from the factory. Admittedly it is intercooled & twin cam. Some XT engine variants had larger valves, and I've seen one of these with an aftermarket ECU produce 140hp straight from an importer. Some judious mods, properly hand built engine, non-factory ECU, larger turbo, the right fuel with higher octane and 190hp would be easily gained.

Tear down each year? The factory teams would be putting a fresh (rebuilt) motor after each event. Even the privateers over here usually had a spare complete motor ready, and the top teams would certainly have been checking them. Group A regs I think would have allowed some work to the engine, decking the block and those rings that press into the head & block around the cylinder bore (can't remember their name). This would've helped with the head gasket issues.

When you replicate this, we want pics!!! The rally guys over here during the 80s (RX turbo won the Australian Rally Chapionship for 4 years straight:banana:), did nothing to the stock suspension, just wound them up.

Full dual to just in front of the diff, then a merge into a single pipe over the rear axle

I'd be worried about the upper bracket moving now that it's only restrained by a single bolt on the inlet manifold. Unless you've got plans to find the proper bracket from a non-AC car. Not having AC is not an option over here...

A local exhaust experimented with their 87 carb wagon during the early 90s (they had a dyno as well). They found that dual 2.25" pipes to just in front of the rear diff gave the best compromise. How this would relate to the later larger EFI motors is anyone's guess though.

Want to trade? It was 43 degree C (I'm guessing around 110 F) & 70+% humidity here yesterday...

Can you PM me what the shipping cost from the US was. I'm looking at doing a similar conversion to my 88. I've got one of the CrossBred kits, but its been too much @#$%^ing about with handbrake cables, etc to get it to work (& the rear hubs aren't perfect either with no wheel locator). I've also heard that the Impreza/Legacy struts aren't a direct fit onto the hubs, like your effort.

I used to have an early digi dash that came as part of a JDM halfcut (they weren't available here). I too liked the look of it, but I do agree with other's opinions about the information. For my car, the complete wiring harness, including the body loom, was extremely different to anything else. It took me 6 months of having the halfcut loom, plus the complete loom out of the car sitting beside each other in my bedroom to work it out (no FSM).