wagonist

What about to a brumby/brat? You wouldn't have to worry about trying to insulate the cab from the engine noise. Fuel tank mounting would also be easier. I think an EG33 or EZ30 with twin turbos with a FWD trans would be excellant. other makes FWD cars generally have twin cables used for changing gears. Maybe something could be adapted? BTW if you do this, I want pix & I'll be buying a plane ticket to come over for a ride:brow:

I'd be careful doing that. There are some subtle minor changes in the wiring between the Legacy & WRX if you're talking about the series 1 Legacy that is.

Pics added. Click on the thumbnail for a bigger pic (sorry bout the brightness)

Firstly, its a 16mm nut & you're right, they're the only 16mm bolts I've ever found on any Suby. I have rewound the seatbelt springs in an L series. If it's the front ones on the L series you don't need to disassemble the spring mechanism. I'd taken some pix of what I'm talking about, but now my camera batteries are flat. First though, check that the loop near your shoulder is clean. This will build up grime from your body & then collect on this, stopping the seatbelt from sliding past properly. The steps are: Remove seat belts from car pull the seatbelts all the way out. To do this you need to hold the reel mechanism at the same angle as it's held in the car. WHATEVER YOU DO NOW, DO NOT LET GO OF THE MECHANISM, OR IT WILL UNWIND. at the reel end you can see a loop of material on the opposite side to where the belt comes in..push this through with a thin BLUNT object from the side where the belt comes from.there is a plastic piece inside a loop of material. push this out of the loop. you can now pull back through the seatbelt from the reel to detach it. wind in the mechanism AGAINST the tension. ie to make it tighter. reinsert the seatbelt through the reel MAKING SURE ITS THE SAME WAY AS REMOVED. You'll probably need the blunt object again reinsert the plastic piece pull on the seatbelt to pull the loop back into the reel. let everything go & you have a tighter spring. I'd suggest you read this before you start, & then reread it. I'm not sure if the earlier models are the same. And you can't do this to the rears because they are sewn around the centre reel part.

Are you guys serious? That's the only model you got with an N/A MPFI engine? I can see now why you concentrate on the SPFI engines. We only got carb or MPFI turbo to 87, then MPFI N/A in 89 & 90

In my application, I want to use the Legacy wiper stalks, which has the variable intermittent front wipers & the control for the timing is wholly within the combination switch. This leaves the intermittent control box left over from the front wipers, & I was thinking about splicing it into the rear wiper "On" wire. Do any of you know whether the Legacy wagon over there got the int rear wiper? Oz wagons didn't, but my Jap import version had both int and on faetures for the rear (never used the "On" version though, except when the car did it itself in reverse when the front wipers were on)

The "L" Series digital dash is what the others on this thread started off talking about, the first post was about an 87 GL. There where 2 versions, an early orange lit type which is like a big light at night, & a later more stylish green version which has a tinting on the lens so you can't see what's not lit. The Vortex was also available with one.

Is your GL an EFI? On the EFI models, the positive side of the fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump relay, which is controlled by the ECU, while the negative side goes back to the ECU as well. Why? Who knows. The problem is with whatever controls the negative side in the ECU, so you simply earth the negative wire from the fuel pump to the body instead.

It noted in the owner's manual for my 88 GL wagon, that some markets had an intermittent rear wiper. Can anyone confirm this & let me know what parts I'd need to wire this up? We certainly didn't get in in Oz & it makes sense coz how often do you run with the rear wiper going all the time anyway?

The MY Digital dashes & L Series are very differnet in their reliability. We didn't get the digi dash after 84, but they've shown up in turbo halfcuts (I know I used to have one) Its very strange that the "top of the line" dash doesn't have the volts & oil pressure though.

That is an extremely common problem with every EA82T I've ever seen. It's so common that most Oz people I know, convert the earthing system from the ECU to the car body even before it becomes a problem. Funny how Subaru changed the fuel pumps in the Legacy & later to simply earth out.....

MUCH better idea.

Inside the front guards is one place I wouldn't mount the surge tank. Front right is full of air intake & washer bottle. Front left (on our RHD cars) is the most likely to be hit in an accident & then you've got an open fuel supply near the battery just ready for ignition.

Oops, mixed up the in tank pump of the later models with the external pump of the earlier versions. How short is short? Bit ambiguous. Driving down a twisty road where the fuel is sloshing from side to side could deprive the pump of fuel to the point of stalling. This will definitely not do any good to the pump. Again, a bit ambiguous. How early are you talking. 70's? We're talking about the late 80's cars here. 85Sub4wd, You say you've opened up a fuel pump, how about a fuel tank? I have, when we cut at least one in half along the middle to weld a plate in to increase the capacity (the car had a 2" lift kit, so you can add 2" to the height of the tank, about 17litres) There's a lot of probablies in your statement. I can confirm that Oz MPFI tanks have a larger feed & return line, & also have an open topped cylinder of metal around the pickup. Just because the inlet & return lines are beside each at the edge of the tank, doesn't necessary mean that they end up at the same place IN the tank. in this case they do. Please also remember where you are & where I am. I'm about 6 hours drive from AUSubaru92. & you are how far away. What might work over there for your much colder climate may not work over here. Increase temp = decreased density by simple physics. Were the US Subarus made in the US, or imported from Japan? All ours came from Japan. My suggestion, use a surge tank or a factory EFI tank. They are not hard to get. (86/87 RX Turbo; 89,90 Leone Royale Sedan & Touring wagon; all Vortex's) Oz only ever got MPFI cars & they're getting old (not sold here since 1990) & rusty & wrecked. (I know of at least 2 Vortex's being wrecked at the moment within 5 minutes of my place) That's what I would do/have done/am doing.

A carb fuel pump will self prime & can be run dry, ie with no fuel, without causing it to fail. An EFI pump, due to the different mechanism, cannot do this & even one dry running can cause it to fail (mainly due to overheating). Beleive it or not, but EFI pumps use the fuel running through them to cool the bushes & stators in the electric motor to keep it running cool. Because there's no free oxygen, spark don't cause ignition of the fuel. A surge tank is a tube around the fuel pickup point that stops the fuel from draining away from the pickup & running the pump dry while cornering, climbing, etc. The fuel return line is also aimed into this container. Factory cars run a surge tank, or swirl pot as they're normally called here for the internal type, inside the fuel tank itself. Hence the reason there's no mention of it in your manual as Subaru doesn't want you to pull your tank apart, & you should have no reason to. A swirl pot can be added into your tank by cutting it open, but I'd only be doing this on a car where there's no EFI option. Another way of doing it is to use the carb pump to feed an external surge tank which is simply a tube with an inlet at the top (from the carb pump), an outlet at the bottom (to the EFI pump). It is also recommended to have the return line form the engine also feed into the top of this rather than going back to the normal tank. Usually as these are fitted into the boot (trunk) of a sedan, an overflow from the near the top to this also drains down to the regular fuel tank. As you can see, if there's the availability of a factory EFI tank, pump & lines, its a lot easier & neater to install. If there's no option, I'd rather spend the money & fit an internal version, but otherwise you've got to find somewhere outside the passenger compartment to fit a 3 litre sealed container holding fuel with 4 hoses coming off it. A very difficult task in a hatch or wagon.

I would seriously suggest that you try to find a factory EFI tank & pump. It would be one less pump to wire up & you wouldn't have to find a spot underneath your wagon to fit the surge tank.

The next I'd be planning if I were you would be to modify the dump pipe. The factory one with the plate over the wastegate is extremely restrictive & causes a massive backpressure problem due to the wastegate not being aboe to escape properly. It comes out, hits a plate straight away, then has to turn 90 degrees, & then hits the exhaust gas coming out of the turbine. Get the hole enlarged on the wastegate side of the dump pipe to match the shape of the gasket, & then blend the pipe in. Boost response will be much quicker & probably will hold a higher boost level too.

Is that initial time of 19.5s correct? I new that the EA82T's were really under tuned, but sounds really slow. Admittedly, its at a fairly high alitude. The car wtih a pic in my signature runs a 2.0L non intercooler turbo diesel & I've got an 18.4s 1/4 out if it bog stock. Good work on getting the extra speed out of it, that's a pretty good gain.

No, those prices sound extremely high. You can get a twin turbo Legacy half cut in Sydney for $2500! I know the EA82T are getting rare (they stopped making them over 10 years ago) but I paid $1000 for an 85 turbo halfcut in 1988. I know that your location makes it very difficult to simply go driving around the importers until you find one though, but I'd keep hanging on until you find the right one at the right price.

Sounds typical Subaru, no consistency anywhere. But seeing as the original poster is in Australia...

hmmm, I notice in your sign that you've got a SPFI. Maybe the SPFI cars have the same size lines as the carb, as SPFI is basically an electronic carby. Seeing as we didn't get an of the SPFI engines here, I don't know. When you were checking, did you measure up SPFI cars or MPFI cars, or both?

sorry 85Sub4wd, but you'll find you're wrong with your info. Line up a carb car & EFI beside each other. Use some vernier calipers to measure up. The carb feed line is one the chassis rail, so is the EFI return line. They are the same size. The Evap lines are both in the same spot. The EFI feed line is up near the strut tower. So too is the carb return line. This is the line removed from the carb versions & replaced. You'll find the EFI feed line is at least 1 or 2 mm bigger than the carb version. Might not be much, & if you're only running an NA motor, it'd be fine. But start winding some boost in... Yeah, only (forgot the extra bit)

You have to change this line all the way back to the pump from the engine bay. If you've get the lines from a wreck, its easier to simply replace all 3 at once because they clip together. The fuel pump brackets are interchangeable from Carb to EFI. Unless you make an external surge tank (which would be a pain to find a place to mount it in a wagon), you'll need to change the fuel tank as the feed line from the tank is bigger.

Last time I got a price on an EFI fuel tank, it was $100 (that was Sunspares BTW). If you really want to get tricky (but it's more hassle IMHO), you don't have to replace all the fuel lines. Just replace the carb return line with the EFI feed line. That's all subaru did. The carb feed line becomes the EFI return line & evap stays the same. And yeah, why didn't you post this up on the BYB forums:) . I'm pretty sure there's one or two people who've done this swap in Australia.

List of parts you'll need to do the fuel system properly (all should be able to gotten off one car) EFI fuel tank (has surge tank inbuilt), EFI fuel pump, EFI fuel lines (they're bigger than carb). These could come form an RX turbo, or any EFI touring wagon or Leone Royale sedan. If you can get an L series turbo halfcut, you'll get the loom, computer, & engine crossmember with it. Plus you'll get a turbo tacho dash & other better features your DL won't have. Oh yeah, don't forget that if you want to keep it legal, the engine should be the same emissions standard or better.