wagonist

You could, but why bother? There is a simply knock pin in either end of the shaft. Take both out, remove the bottom shock bolt & then remove the shaft so you can work on it at the height required, rather than lying on you back in cramped conditions under a car.

Ed1534: I'd say you've worn something out. The end of the speedo cable is square & fits into a square hole in the cluster. If the edges are worn, it could be slipping. My suggestion: replace it. The inner part should be able to pulled all the way out, but not from the end you're working from. The other end only. Sounds like it has stretched & is about to break. As I said, replace it. Brumby Boy: your cable needs lubrication. Whatever oil is in the sleeve for the cable to spin in has run down & therefore the cable is catching. Remove the cable assebly from the car, pull the cable out & relube it. Dunno what with, talk to your local mechanic. This is actually a pretty common problem up there due the high humidity & heat in summer.

If you use the block & bottom end, exhaust from the carb, with the heads, inlet manifold, air flow meter from the turbo should be ok. You'll have to block the water & oil pipes to & from the turbo though. don't know how the mapping of the turbo ECU will react to higher revs but no boost reading. Might go into a "limp" mode.

Someone over here in Aus fitted the ER27 XT6 motor to a brumby (what we call a brat). The radiator was fitting to a roll bar behind the cab because it wouldn't fit into the engine bay due to the extra length. Fitting the twin turbos, dunno what space would be left after fitting the engine.

Sorry, but I've got to clear up some wrong info at the beginning. The EJ temp sensor for the dash gauge is not compatible with an EA82 cluster!!! It will run it yes, but the output signal of the EJ sender is about half that of the EA version. This means that once you go past about half way up the gauge on the EA cluster, you're about to blow the system. It may not be a problem in the colder climates, but it sures matters here! Apparently there is a replacement sensor made by VDO (I don't know if you've got hem overthere) for the EA motor. It is too small to fit into an EA block & requires an adaptor, but it is a direct screw in the EJ sensor position. I'm looking into this at the moment to find out how try this is.

That looks insane.:cool: I'd like to know how he converted the WRX box to RWD only (unless he simply wleded up the centre diff) Mind you, he could've left he original box in it, we have guys over here in Oz with the part-time 4wd box behind EJ20T's & surviving. Is that an EJ22T? It looks different to the EJ20T I'm currently installing in my 88 wagon. Should be good for a sub 14s 1/4 without any mods:D

Have you ever detached the cover on the wiper motor (ie the black part containing the magnets)? While it can bolt on 2 ways, the polarity of the magnets mean it should only go on one way. If you have removed it, unscrew it & turn it a half turn & reattach it. The biggest symptom of this will be your wiper not parking at the bottom of the screen, instread they will be partially up.

The cars with cruise control had a plastic spinning ring with 3 contacts on it instead of the single metal rod. You need to buy this before you try anything else. After that, remove your old wheel & the cowling, & remove the sprung metal rod (it should be held in with a screw) The plastic spinning ring will now be able to be screwed on (there are 4 holes where it will line up to) You will also need to hook up the wire for the horn from the plastic ring (it'll be the same colour as the single rod wire (GB - Breen with Black stripe I think) Attached your new wheel, reattached the cowling & away you go.