wagonist

Early model ecu has less plugs and pins because that ecu doesn't run the spark. Why can't the op just import the car as non running? By the time you swap heads, inlet manifolds,etc you may as well fix the turbo engine...

I've used an na ecu to run a turbo engine, but both ecu for post 88 mpfi engines

Just thought of something though. Check if the mpfi heads are different to the spfi heads. Something to do with the inlet ports cos of the injector position. We didn't get the spfi engine here so I can't answer, but I know Tha mpfi inlet manifold doesn't fit carb engine

Basically what you'd be doing is an engine block swap. Think of it that way and change everything over from one engine to the other, sensors included and run it all from the turbo ecu and wiring. then it should run, kind of. Expect the fuel ratios to be out, and maybe the timing also. Do you need to do emissions test? I hate vague import rules. Must be even harder when you can drive across the border...

For the brake disc, that part was copied directly off the "other" copy, and those definitely allowed a brake disc to fit (I used to have a set). Last time I checked with him, he'd gotten a second sample. I think still need third sample to double check the changes (increase wheel locater length mainly).

85 turbo will be mpfi, 93 na will be spfi. Wiring is very different between models, but hardware less so. If you're prepared to swap inlet manifolds and engine loom, then you could get it to run. Not perfectly, but it would run. A bit of effort though, why not just change to the ej?

How much does the shifter move around when it's in gear? There's two plastic bushes in the linkage at the stick end which wear out. Usually makes it harder to get into the end gears.

If the engine is carb, then it should self prime. But it might be worthwhile to run the pump without trying to crank the engine to check the system is full of fuel. Also, did you pull the fuel pine off at the carb to check it was getting fuel?

So your problem is nothing to do with the caliper, but getting tight enough the 36mm nut on tue axle? When you put the nut on, there are 2 washers behind it. A cone shape and a flat one. Check the flat ones are still good. They're actually curved, but are supposed to curved side out so the nut pushes on them like a spring washer (I suspect most of the stripped hub problems posted in here is because these washers installed backwards).

Back in the 90s, I knew a few shops who dabbled in nodding the EA82t, cos it was still worthwhile spending that kind of money. They would use sandpaper to balance cranks cos that was all the material needed to get to work. A lot of effort for little gain. Helped a bit at the top end, but were also spending time porting by this stage also. Draw your own conclusions about doing it, but if I had to pay for the work, I personally wouldn't bother

That'll do it Honestly though, I've never liked that option. Too much potential for something to go flying when it shouldn't... Try my other idea. Just a bit tricky to hold stuff in place. Makes it easier if you open the hood the full way up to vertical. Love how Subie hoods will do that

Why isn't bumping the starter an option? Another option is to pull the rubber plug off the top of the trans bellhousing used for viewing the timing marks, get a long flat bladed bar and wedge the starter ring gear while using a long bar on the crank nut. Will need some one else to help. If you don't have aircon, pull the radiator (should do anyway when do the belts as gives more room) and grill and use a rattle gun

I don't recall my EA82Ts having harmonic balancers. I know the Vortex engine does, but my Leone versions don't seem to. Really don't get why they're needed anyway

If you're talking about something bolted to the left chassis rail in the engine bay, then that is the hill holder. The proportioning valve for the brakes is under the back of the car somewhere. Most people disconnect I because it's a pain when trying to reverse downhill.

Is this a generic one? I've been looking around for a Gen III version, but needs to fit the factory chrome inserts. No luck so far...

Finished installing the Viscous LSD centre from a Gen I Legacy GT into my rear diff. Ended up having to cut one of the original stub axles off because I couldn't undo the Torx bolt in the middle. Swapped the crown wheels over. Chamfered off 2 adjacent ridges on the diff centre so it would fit inside the casing (FYI, some later models need the bolts sealed because they protrude through the outer case).

As others have said, Subaru continued 2 of the early 80s models into the late 80s. That being the 2 door hatch like yours & the Brat/Brumby. Whilst these might be post 85 models, 99.9% of shops will confuse them with the later models which had a different (revised) engine, gearbox, suspension layout, etc. Your car is the same as an 84. If you quote that when trying to order parts, then you should get the correct bits.

Easiest way to find those wires would be to get a multimeter or test light (will need an extra length of wire), pull out of the indicator globes (front corner is prob easiest), unplug the harness off the back of the switch & then probe the wires until you find the correct ones. At least with this method you are guaranteed to find the correct wires. Diagrams & looms can change over the years. Where is the hazard switch? Can't remember if its on the column also. Sometimes easier to connect there instead.

Got any 4wd cars at wrecker nearby you can cut them out of the floor from? They're only spot welded on. The flat part of the floor isn't really designed to handle the load. I have seen them bent before when the tailshaft hit on something.

I've pulled the key out of the keyhead before & had a blank key cut to that shape to fit back inside the lighting part. Then cut key as normal. Bit fiddly, but if you're particular, can be done.

It seems like Subaru simply made it square back in the day instead of radiusing corners. Easier tooling I imagine. I like the thicker waisted area behind where it sits up against the seal. Less chance of gunk getting in. Did the original copy have a chamfer on the end of the splines? It's been a while since I sold mine, so I can't remember. Chamfer is there for ease of mating up the splines when fitting the part. Maybe more criticial when being done by a machine than by hand. Might need to keep an eye on that one. no loss in deleting the other holes in the hub face. Almost impossible to retrofit the ABS, and the EJ rotors don't need the locating screws

North America had a lot more trim levels than here, with many wonderful arrangements of engines & transmissions, plus the 3 door which we didn't get. eg DL, GL, GL10, GL10 turbo, RX turbo, RS, ... The carb motor was replaced with SPFI for the series 2 due to emissions. Dual range gearbox is rare, along with the high roof wagon. We had a few more options in 85, but a lot of these disappeared. Sunroof on sedan, FWD gearbox on flat roof wagon (which had GL type outside trims), single range 4wd gearbox, manual choke, mirrors on outside of doors.

After 85, we only had 4 body styles. Brumby ute, older shape, sedan, DL wagon with flat roof, GL touring wagon with high roof. plus the Vortex (XT) There were some differences with the trim levels, but basically I just say I've got an (year model) Subaru (body style). 99% of parts for L series are the same & some are same as earlier MY. If you're doing an engine part, then say which engine: carb, EFI (Aus only got MPFI), turbo EFI If you're doing the transmission, then specify that. ditto suspension (FWD & 4wd models have different stuff) ditto brakes (only difference is that turbos had rear disc brakes) etc sometimes might need to spec power steer or aircon. Just give the specific details for what you need & don't over supply info.

Not sure about the lhd models, but for the rhd the engine loom is joined in the main loom, which is one piece through the whole car. My suggestion is to strip absolutely everything out of the 88 and do the job as if you're using the 86s body as a reshell

And I've heard that carb camshafts give better performance in a turbo motor. Be interesting to get some good specs on the different parts to compare (and have the time & spare space & money to actually try a few...)