wagonist

I've never understood why he needed a sandwich plate to fit an early model TPS. I've seen 2 other spider conversions running off black computers where they simply fitted the 2 switch TPS directly. Because it's just switches & the throttle spins the opposite direction, you simply wire up the idle switch as WOT, and vice versa. However, I've got the same problem as you. I want to use the spider manifold so I can take advantage of the cruise control throttle linkage & use the cruise system off a Liberty. My JDM wagon has the factory cruise which pulls on the pedal so I thought I can get away without using the spider system. However, the cruise doesn't seem to engage, and I won't know until I fix all the ECU issues I've got. If you got some tracings, I'm happy to try drawing something up in CAD to make a sandwich plate with the appropriate through holes. Though maybe just starting with a chunk of aluminium might be easier

If you mean the ones off the Loyale style, then yes they fit without any problems. The earlier rims won't fit only the later models because of the later model bigger front brakes, but fitting newer rims onto older cars works.

Pull the shaft out completely & use a puller or press. Got access to heat? ie blow torch. Heat up the bearing race first can help a bit. Expect similar kind of forces to getting the tie rod off...

The way the linkages work on the back of each gearbox are the same though, so you can get the 4 speed stuff to work on the 5 speed, you just need to adapt the ends. I've never had the 4 spd though, so I don't know if the 4 spd linkages will physically fit onto the 5 spd trannie. You'll need to do a test fit. If you really get stuck, I can send you some linkages from over here.

usually, you cut the linkages, shorten to suit & then weld back together as they push the linkages in the same way despite the 4wd lever working the opposite direction.

did you bleed all the air out of the system? Need to turn full lock to full lock a number of times with the cap off and the engine running. Is it hard to steer all the time, or just for parts of the turn?

If the rear diff is the same as the 1st Gen Legacy, it will bolt straight in. I've previously had the VLSD from a 93 Liberty (Legacy) RS turbo in the rear of my 88 wagon without any other mods. If it's got the male splines sticking out, then you'll need to use the sliding type inner CV on both ends of the rear shafts, otherwise the shaft will pop out under full travel (the diff seems narrower somehow). Also, if you remove the front bracket off your current diff where it hangs off the rear suspension, this will bolt on the later diff to mount it. Legacy's here only had 3.9, 4.11, or 3.545 ratios, so you do need the matching transmission to work.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but that's not a rare part. Every turbo model available here (which wasn't many ) had one. JDM turbo wagon I've got came with one also. Currently got it removed. Can get a pic of it tonight.

If you're going to upgrade the brakes, I'd replace the master cylinder & booster also. They are bigger. One of my cars I bought converted to WRX running gear had this. The Impreza booster was a tight fit to get in (have no idea about if this is possible on LHD). You have to remember also that Legacys, Imprezas, etc have their braking circuits split front/rear, not diagonally. So also get the matching proportioning valve (which on RHD models sits close to the master cylinder anyway in the engine bay) & fit that. You'll need to re-route the brake lines. Mine still had the rear proportioning valve fitted under the floor, but personally, I'd get some fittings & remove it.

The easiest way to do this would be to: - get a pair of worn out rear drums (check the spline is ok) - machine these down so that the Legacy disc fits over it snugly & locates (the normal Subaru hub locates the brake rotor via the centre bore) - drill it out for 5 x 100 wheel studs - make a plate that suits the shape of the rear trailing arm where the backing plate bolts on (ie centre bore size, 3 bolt holes) - weld this into the centre of the Legacy backing plate - some in Aus have used the handbrake lever from an 80s Mitsubishi, but scour the junk yards to see what's available - or make up some super long cables with the correct ends (my cables go forward from the factory handle, then loop around on top of the gearbox, go back down the trans tunnel to the rear). I'm using Honda rear calipers on the standard rear discs

Do you have power steering? Did you re-use your existing Uni joint in the steering shaft, or install a different one? Have you check that this uni joint is in good condition? They have a tendency to sieze up

I don't remember there being a relay for the fuel pump. The carb one is pretty low power. Have you connected a battery directly to pump to check it works?

Is the fuel pump working? Common problem on the earlier "black" ECUs for the earth side of the fuel pump circuit to fail. Attach the earth side of the fuel pump wiring directly to the body instead. Also, is the wire from the negative side of the coil connected to the ECU? I had a conversion not run because I hadn't connected that wire... took me 6 months to find the problem

pump doesn't prime with the turbo ECU's. Check engine light isn't on, but I think that will only show up when the engine is running. I'm reading the codes off the ECU LED. I haven't pulled the dizzy cap off, but it appears only the cap has been changed, not the rest. My dizzy is more like the right side pic. I know the cap has 2 screws to hold it on. Has 4 pin plug hanging off it. Dunno if you sent me some diagrams or not. If so, it was so long ago that neither of us can remember BTW, if you're at the Gold Coast, I'll be in Brissie for Christmas. I can bring a hard drive if I could get some new copies. The only wiring diagrams I seem to have are for NA spider XT + XT6.

agreed. As far as I can tell, everything is as it should be. The distributor cap is new, but you'd think that if the distributor was the problem, then it wouldn't run with an NA ECU either.

local? That's like saying Cincinatti is local to New York Unfortunately, info on the series 2 turbo (ie gold ECU) is limited to the XT here. The only other turbos we got were the RX turbo sedan & GLTA sedan up to 87 (ie series 1)

Well, I've been fault finding in my JDM turbo wagon & I'm stumped. Won't kick the fuel pump in on it's original "turbo" ECU. Managed to drive it off the trailer though with an NA ECU... Anyone got any ideas can refer to here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156337-error-code-22-ea82t-1990-model-ecu-questions/

So I'm trying to get my JDM turbo touring wagon running. The fuel pump isn't working (but works when powered directly from the battery) using the check connectors, I'm getting error code 22, which I'm told is the knock sensor. The positive side of the fuel pump wiring works ok. The relay turns on for a few seconds with the ignition at "ON" & then stays on when cranking the engine. If I bypass the earth side of the fuel pump directly to the body, the car runs (kind of). I've got 5 gold coloured ECUs here. the JDM one that came in the car. A USDM version that came form a turbo, an ADM NA version that I pulled from a wreck myself, and 2 from a mate which he says are from turbo XT's. The JDM & USDM have an extra circuit board. Neither of these ECUs will make the car run. Both of these flash code 3 with the green check connectors joined indicating turbo automatic. My ADM NA & the 2 from a mate don't have the extra circuit board. These all flash code 7 indicating NA. All of these make the engine run & I drove the up the street and up my steep front yard with my ADM ECU last night. The questions I have are: 1. is the extra circuit board for turbo models only? 2. what does this extra circuit board do? 3. is there anything else tied into the knock control circuit? I find it curious that a fault there would stop the car from running 4. can I disconnect the knock sensor without any bad effects? 5. how the heck do you undo the plug for the knock sensor? It's position down underneath the back of the throttle body make it difficult to get to (especially with the turbo) 6. does this ECU need to run boost control? 7. Can I run the car on an NA ECU?

85 model EA82 had the semi-auto choke here. It's the only model that did. My first subie was an 85 sedan with this type of choke. Because it's so rare, the repair manuals don't cover it. What is meant by "the cable is loose"? The lever you pull on is attached to the cable by a small grub screw underneath. The cable box itself is held on by the round plastic grommet on the front (hidden behind the lever) unwinding off the surround. How many k's on the 93 model? I know someone in Qld who's got a sportswagon they're stripping. He (well his wife) might be interested in getting rid of the engine block (or complete engine). Got to be better than working on a helicoiled spark plug. I'd also worry about it coming loose again... Same guy has a really rusty 85 touring wagon with the manual choke he's stripping. so if your cable is stuffed, I can ask him.

You might want to double check what offset wheels JesZek was using (he's got redrilled hubs so much better choice of rims). The Pug tend to stick out more than Subie wheels. I've had 205 R14s rub when using a lift kit & Pug's in the past.

How much does the wastegate arm move? You shouldn't be able to move that by hand at all.

Can't legally run spacers anywhere. Doesn't stop us from doing it Not so sure about legalities in the US. From what I've seen, appears that anything goes... The machined drum option can be used to locate the brake rotor, just not the centre hole, but rather for the drum diameter. At least in this country, you're better off going for 5x100. 5x114.3 on subies (with the corresponding brakes) is pretty limited. (see list in previous post). None of these cars are that common on the road here. 5x100 you can pick up anywhere second hand. Our cars don't deteriorate as quickly as other countries (thankfully), and aren't so numerous (not so thankfully )

BTW, I'd previously bought an RX Turbo that'd been converted to WRX running gear. They'd used drum brakes off the rear machined down to make hubs. No wheel or rotor locator though But I'd thought about making up a ring that presses into a groove machined into the face. Or making up another ring that fits on the front & is held on by the axle nut (how this works with the cone washer is something I'd never got too far with)

If you increase the diameter, then the earlier (ie Liberty, Impreza) 5x100 rear brake rotors won't fit. FWD/AWD Toyota Celicas (and derivatives like the Caldina) have factory offset of 39. 3 or 4mm spacers & you're sweet. I've got a set of factory 15" Caldina GTT wheels sitting at home wasting away. BTW, Neons aren't 5x100 either. They are 5x 4" (which is 101.6mm). Trust me, a mate bought a damaged one to fix & found it impossible to find wheels in this country that fitted.

Possibly. I did have a set of those hubs (and sold them), but the wheel locater was no where near long enough. The brake rotor was located ok, but the extra part out was too short. Especially if going to be wheeling, I don't like locating just by the wheel studs.