fastenova

Do you mean because they T instead of Y? Yeah, wasn't EXACTLY what I wanted but I got a good deal (I think?!) and isn't that big of a deal to me. This isn't a race car But it does the job and sounds pretty good.

Yeah, I'm an idiot. They are clearly wagons. Heh. I wasn't paying attention.

Rick and I went up to Crooked Finger today and had a leisurely drive thru the hills. I got stuck on a stump (need a lift!), he got stuck on a fence, and I also got cornered between a tree and a fence. Nice time. Here's some pics. Post yours if you can Rick.

So got some pics, I will post audio tonight or tomorrow.

Like half my intake? Yeah, try JB, drill it, tap it, helicoil, should hold pretty well. And DON'T be in a hurry. Give the JB a few hours to cure after you fill the hole, drill it, and give it another 24 hours to cure before you tap it. You should be all set. If it doesn't hold you're just out a few bucks for the JB and a couple of days. Aaron

I grew up in Sandy, love mt hood :cool: I'm going up to Crooked Finger today, but I'd definitely be down in a couple of weeks. My dad has yet to see my rig anyway, so that'd give me a good excuse to drive it out to visit him. Olallie lake is sweet. Haven't spent much time in Hood River, but I'd reckon there are a lot of trails off 35? Aaron

I'll get pics too. I can't tell you who did it as it is technically illegal in OR to replace a cat'd exhaust with a catless one, but the guy was nice enough to turn a blind eye as long as I did the same. It came out looking nice and follows the same path as the original, totally. Hangars are in the same spot and he kept the flange right after the Y as well.

I got my exhaust finished up yesterday on my ea81. 2" from the heads down to a 2.5" merge, then 2.25 all the way back to a high flow muffler with a downturned tip just at the rear bumper. I wanted slightly smaller pipe at the heads, but the guy didn't have any 1.75" so he just went with 2". I brought him the muffler I had picked up at a local speed shop for $35, and paid another $160 for the custom y, extra bent pipe and labor. It sounds AMAZING! It's got a nice low throaty rumble that's not loud at all up to about 3500-4000, then it's more noticeable. But at WOT anywhere above 2K, it just gets super low and is pretty loud. Sounds mean. I'll post a sound clip later if I get the chance. Good amount more low end than my leaky stock exhaust, and definitely a little more pull up high. Plus it doesn't sound like the car's about to explode:burnout: Thanks for the suggestions. Aaron

OK, this might be reaching but if your intake valves are open and you are leaking water into the intake ports/manifold could it find its way into the crankcase/valvetrain portion of the head? Is it a possibility that there's a failed gasket somewhere and the water is just coming out there? If not, then it's definitely a cracked head, as water shouldn't be in that part of the head at all... Just a thought! Aaron

So I'm thinking about having a big chunk of metal bent up that will eventually resemble a skidplate for my ea81 wagon. I'm thinking something simple, but am not sure where the best mounting points would be. I have two ideas, one just to protect motor and tranny oil pans, and one that is wider to protect tie rods, etc. Anyone made a custom plate and what thickness metal did you use? Aluminum is good, as it's lightweight, but it's gotta be thicker than steel for the same protection. Thoughts? Thanks, Aaron

I'm likely up for that weekend. Have to wait and see but it sounds good! I will be up there this Saturday poking around, GD, if you're looking for something to do. I am hoping to be there around 10:30 or 11:00.

Best way in my experience is to start the car with the cap off and let it run until the temp gauge starts going up. Then turn on the heater full blast. This will ensure flow of coolant thru the heater core. It will take a while for the tstat to open since you're sucking heat out and only idling, but don't get anxious and jump on the throttle. Just let the stat open up, and once your radiator gets hot let it idle for another ~5 minutes or so. You'll lose some coolant in this process. Just make sure your overflow is at the correct level. Once it's hot, throw the cap back on, and take it for a drive. Check your overflow level after your drive and again after the system cools down. You should have a bleeder screw somewhere, possibly near the top rad. hose. I'd unscrew that while it's warming up as it helps get air out of the system. EDIT: I also squeeze and tap the top/bottom hoses while it's warming up, this helps to get any air bubbles stuck in there out.

Before you throw in the towel, check your coolant levels. Look at the oil. From the sound of it, you started dumping water into the intake, and when a motor is trying to compress water instead of air, it doesn't go so well and IS LOUD (don't ask me why I know this so well). It would also produce a lot of steam/smoke like you described. Since you've got a Weber, check the gasket where your adaptor plate mounts to the intake, as there is a coolant passage there that really needs to be closed. I JB Welded mine shut, if you can get a shop to TIG it for you for like $20 that would be much better, then just file it smooth and you're all set. If that gasket is in good shape pull the intake off and check your intake manifold gaskets... Those also have water passages going through them and are known to leak if they're not in good shape. They're also cheap, so replace them while you're in there. EDIT: If you have the equipment, do a compression test as well to see if you're getting compression. Note that if there's water in there, pull all the plugs and crank it over a bunch to help get water out. Good luck!

First off I'd suggest bleeding the air out the cooling system. If there are any air bubbles it can cause weird sensor readings, and if there's a bubble at the tstat, it won't open, thereby causing the radiator to not flow coolant while your motor overheats!

Hey guys, I'm finishing up the minor things on my sube this week and am wanting to take it out this weekend to find some dirt. I'm in Salem and looking for areas around here (Vancouver area to Corvallis roughly). Anyone know of good spots for a beginner (I've done some offroading in my Ranger but not a lot) or want to SHOW me some areas? I'm hoping to go out Saturday late AM as long as the weather holds up. Thanks! Aaron

I use a 7/8" crapsman 12-point socket and a 2' snapon breaker bar I suppose a metric 6pt socket would be better but if it takes much work to turn the crank, you probably have other issues. -A

Hi guys, So none of the local auto parts stores can seem to source a speedo cable for my ea81 wagon. I've checked the junkyards around here and not had any luck. Wondering if anyone has a good idea on where I can find a cable? Specifically, d/r 4WD 4spd, 1982 1800cc GL wagon. I'll be up in Ptown this weekend and I might see if I can find one at a yard up there, we'll see how it goes. What's compatible? Thanks!!! Aaron

AH HA! Me any my wagon... I thought the wagon was the only way!!! Thanks Moose. Does it have the same setup with the goods mounted on the triangle plate?

WOW! I had to yank on that thing. I was about to the point that I thought it would bust, then POP! off it came. I guess when things don't come off, more force is the answer! Thanks!!! Now to check my gauges out.

Yeah, round switch left and below the column. Thanks!

I pulled pretty hard. The headlight and wiper knobs came off like this, but the center lamp switch seems difficult...

I can't seem to figure out how the center light switch comes out. I'm trying to get access to my gauges and I got everything out except this stupid center light switch. Help?

On ea81 motors, as far as I know, the one you replaced is also called a fuel separator. Does it have three fittings on it? If so, it separates fuel vapor from the fuel itself. It also acts as a secondary filter. The primary filter is just forward of the rear pass. wheel, towards the center of the vehicle, and is located on top of a triangular plate. The plate is held on by three 10mm bolts. The filter can be replaced with one similar to it if you can't find the exact one. Just take it to the parts counter and ask what they have that will match. Make sure the inlet and outlet sizes are about the same, and that the angle of the fittings is similar. -Aaron

Check your fuel filter, primary and secondary. If it's carbureted, you can turn the key off as soon as it starts losing power and then check the float level. If it's low, you're not getting enough fuel to the carb. Good luck!

I usually stay out of 'emotional' debates on online forums, but... There are a couple of types of people in the world. Those that care about other people, and those that don't. What's an extra 5 minutes in the jy to you if it means helping another subaru nut out? Hell, I'd buy you a cheap socket set if you lived in my town so I knew you had the tools you needed to do the job RIGHT, and so I knew that when I wanted parts they'd be either gone or whole, not busted up. I think when I was 16 and pulling parts for my Ford Escort I enjoyed breaking things... But I quickly outgrew that. If you wanna trash a vehicle, buy one from the junkyard and trash it on your own property. One man's JUNK is another man's treasure. As for stealing parts... The yards I go to, I buy something large ( >$20), and they GIVE me little things (clips, relays, whatever). I had a handful of little things once and they charged me $1 for whatever I had. If you don't like the price, haggle with them. Or go buy aftermarket, if you can get it, for 5x as much. Just my 2 cents. Aaron PS- You're right, it's not Walmart. It's just another small business trying to make it that you're stealing from.