Lawsonmh15

How are you using the PCV Valve? Heads?

I'm not going to be sleeping much tonight. I have gotten all the major Items I can think of. So now I have to sift through all the BS and download that too. It's absolutely ridiculous that the entire manual can't be downloaded at once. BTW Flashget caused problems with the PDF's encoding so I can't even use that to just sched 20 downloads in queue every hour and two minutes. Lastly. In the event that I am dilligent in obtaining the remaing service manuals, I will have a COMPLETE FSM for what looks to be any 95-99 Legacy 2.2 (Time Permitting) and 2.5L. I will RE-Compile the FSM into a single contiguous PDF with bookmarks. For those interested in the whole thing, or particular sections, please pm me. I even downloaded the specialty tool lists ( they don't have ALL the specialty tools... That's for another thread though I suppose.

He he he!!! http://home.comcast.net/~lawsonmh15/Crankshaft_and_Pistons.pdf

Figured that might be a distinct possibillity.

The picture I had seen was using the biggest of the three hoses behind the TB. Would like to know for sure what will distribute evenly. TIA.

Sorry if I hijack, I just cleaned mine with BG 402 so I will let you all know what the results are. However, why is it that there is no code generated when the Sensor is not plugged in? How am I even supposed to know that the sensor is functioning properly?

WEAK!!! I just got one tax check in the mail, may sign up tonight. Any idea what they cap you at?

Thanks for the info! From what I can infer, I shouldn't leave it in all too long, but maybe a few miles.

I'm planning on running a can through my upper engine prior to my next oil change and wondering how long I should run it through before changing oil. Also, should I go in directly through the throttle body, or just add like oil; or both? Thanks in advance.

Okay, so awhile back, in my search for a repair manual for my 99 Leg. SUS, I ran across the Subaru Technical Information Site ( http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp ). I am expecting a good sized check from uncle sam soon, so I was thinking about getting a 72 hour subscription and maxing out my 4Mb/s connection. Using Flashget, I ought to be able to get a few:brow: more manuals than just mine. Wondering if there would be any legalities with these resources being donated to the site?

Thanks man. I still need to tie the wires up, and powerwash the engine, and then I will need to do another comprehensive photo with locations. The compartment looks quit different in this picture, as it was taken pre-battery, wires, re-grounding, and plug wires. Hopefully it will suffice for now.

Hmmm. Could you offer an RPM Range? If it's not doing in a particular RPM range, it may indeed be tranny related. In that case, do as that dude said. Fluid change and Tranny Filter. If you do the filter, you should only need to do the external filter. I just changed mine this weekend. $31. DEALER ONLY on that filter. DOH!!! Not sure if that version of 4EAT has the External spin-on filter. If it IS RPM related, I would start with your power. Grounds. If you're not sure how to do the ground mod... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42606 If you do that and your prob is not solved. Check your batt at an autoparts store. If that's OK. I would try cleaning your MAF sensor. I have been using B&G 402 Brake and contact cleaner. O2 sensor safe. Let me know where this takes you.

I'm sure people will argue that this is subjective, but there are many factors that will govern how big of an improvement you'll see by Re-Grounding your chassis connections. The biggest two factors I can think of would be location, and age. i.e., I have a MY99 Legacy SUS. Stock batt, Wires, and grounding had never been touched. My terminals were so corroded that I was left with absolutely no alternative but to put in an Exide Orbital (Optima) battery and run new wires from the starter to the batt. I still had headlight dimming going on. So I began tearing out bolts. Scraped with a razor. Made a big difference. No flat spots, but seemed to lug a hair immed. following first to second shift. I picked up about 15ft of 8ga high strand wire from JB Saunders in Boulder about a month ago. So I figured I'd go to the home depot and pick up some ring terminals and run a ground straight to the engine block. Ran across a grinding stone that would fit in my drill and decided to re-do the rest in addition to tinning the ground wires. I install custom electronics for a living, and if we hired someone did NOT tin their wires, we'd let them go. You need to use paste flux so that the solder melts into the sheath. That is the ONLY way to get a TRUE oxygen free connection. For this application I twisted the wire, brushed on the flux, fed into the connector and tinned from the excess at the top. I crimped it while hot so that the terminal wouldn't just slide off. HUGE DIFFERENCE. Took off all types of old corrosion and paint. See pics. Took it out after... Phenomenal. I can safely say that my ride hasn't run this well since I've owned it. Factory grounding is an absolute joke. Check it out.

LOL. I reiterate my first response. Plugs?!!! It boggles my mind that people will skip over the cheapest and look at the expensive option first. Plugs = $12. Pulling them = Free. Like I said. Had the EXACT same codes, wound up being plugs or wire. NO CEL's since.

Have you switched plugs within the last 3,000-10,000 miles? I put in some bosch plat. + 4 plugs in and after about 7,000 miles started getting the PO303,304 codes. Swapped with NGK V-Power. No more CEL. The other thing I noticed, was that the metal lug inside the plug wire boot was extending further down the boot than the others. Good Luck.

Thanks for the advice. I went to a local indie joint that wanted $60 but the coolant had no brand (no thanks:rolleyes:). Kid told me it was "The green kind". I proceeded to Grease Monkey. They wanted $70 for prestone EG. No conditioner though. After having done a search over at the NASIOC, I found a SWEET thread on the importance of a good coolant and conditioner, and problems that may result from ignorance. Check it out. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504002&highlight=Radiator+Flush I remembered that John Elway Subaru South was down the street and I went there because neither of the places had a conditioner. It was only $1.29. The service dept. didn't seem busy so inquired as to how much a coolant flush was. $50:banana:. SOLD. I also picked up an external tranny filter. However, it took them close to 2 hours to do the service (will schedule next time). But the service manager gave me $10 off the flush, and $10 off the tranny filter . These guys honor ANY competitors coupons!!! The have gotten coupons for $5 oil changes and taken the hit on it. I couldn't believe it. I will be frequenting that joint for ANY service issues. Almost forgot. Before having the flush and condioner, my fans were kicking on after about 30-45 seconds of idling. After... I idled for about 5 mins before I got bored and shut her down. COULDN'T believe it.

Doing a coolant flush today, and I'm wondering what standards to stick to when looking for a joint to do the flush. I've heard Subie coolant is a bit diff. than the run of the mill. I know ALOT of people swear by Mobil 1... What brand for coolant? Immediate answers are greatly appreciated.

So a Stock WRX turbo would cause probs with my 2.5?

What if I got that stuff too? Plus, you never said if it would fit or not. Will it?

I have a shot at a turbo from an 02 WRX for $100. How easily would fit onto my 99 SUS 2.5?

Give the re-keying a shot. Before I argue that your camshaft is fine, realistically, how long were you driving before you realized there was a prob and had it towed? If less than 7 miles or so, I'd imagine you're fine. That's about how far I went and my mechanic (10 year subie tech) put in a woodruff key and new pulley and I was back on the road. Runs better than ever. It sounds to me like this guy wants to make $$$ on an engine (or at least the labor of removal and installation of). I was quoted 1.5 hours labor to do the key and pulley. Both are simple, and these guys are paid to have the tools to make it the work as quick and easy as possible. Neither are the cheapest of options, but the key and pulley are a whole hell of a lot cheaper than either of the alternatives (especially if the shaft is fine:brow:). I could be wrong here, but when my pulley broke loose on me it would strip the bolt so loose that pulley was no longer attached to the chrank shaft. That would simply mean that there would be no tension putting the shaft off axis. I would imagine if you were doing serious damage to the camshaft and engine, you would hear, feel it being done. I'd imagine you would notice a difference in timing. With what your mechanic implies, the pulley would be an integral part to the stability of the engine. In reality, it was simply adapted to, in order to "power" auxillary devices. i.e. steering, A.C., alternator. True, you lose power steering, but it still steers, no ac, no power for stereo, lights, batt. But I'll bet your engine still ran fine as you pulled to the side of the road. No grinding or thumping to be heard or felt. After discovering that a fallen spark plug could cause a tactile rattle throught the pedals and steering assembly, I'd have you imagine you'd feel a serious thud... My 2 cents. Don't let em' hose ya' man!!!

Try Super Rupair 888-442-6508

:banana::banana:

Man... You are single-handedly responsible for me making a mental note to NEVER buy a green 99' OBW out of Wisconsin.

PO304? Recently change plugs or wires? Wires tight?