Lawsonmh15
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Posts posted by Lawsonmh15
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Thanks for pointing out the common knowledge fact.
Ethanol has roughly half of the energy per volume unit compared to gasoline. So, with 10% ethanol fuel , you can expect 5% loss of MPG, and power, maybe little bit more due to the need to dowshifting. The change you observed was more of underfiling with subsequent overfilling or perhaps cheating at the pump.
I use 87 gasoline with 0% alcohol and still experience 16-20 MPG city and 22-24 MPG hwy.
Any suggestions for me?
Possibly cleaning your MAF. I have had great success with the BG&K 402 "Brake" cleaner. It claims to be O2 sensor safe, so I just removed the MAF and sprayed a light stream over the screen and resistors on the MAF. Weird hesitation decreased dramatically. The rest was fixed after removing all slack AND wiggle room from my throttle cable. Fuel filter would be good to look at replacing as well. I try to look at what are most likely the oldest items on my car. i.e. Spark Plugs, Plug wires, Air Filter, Tranny Filter, Front/rear diff oil and then some normal things like tire pressure.
Also, if you decide to clean your MAF and are taking off the first air intake, make sure to look inside the second resonator air intake to see if there is oil present. If so, you will need to replace your PCV Valve $4 clean the hose and air intake. Then you will want to run a can of 44k through a quarter tank before your next oil change. Without knowing what engine you have, I can't say for certain what you should be at, but if it's a 2.5L or less, you are hurtin. Get codes pulled at a checker or napa and if it comes back PO130, you may want to consider replacing your O2 sensor. I just picked up some 60 degree offset metric wrenches for doing my AC Retention bracket, but haven't tried to remove the O2 yet. Would like to see if a difference could be had by cleaning it with the BG 402.
Any hesitation?
Smelling Rich?
Here a miss? (Check plug wires. Have had mine shoot off in the past.)
Rough Idle?
Changed parts without resetting ECU?
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Well, I've put 8,000 Miles on my "new" 99' Legacy SUS in the last couple of months. I know that the best mileage to hope for is 28/21. Generally I stay in the 25-27 Mpg range. However, In the last week I drove to the land of Corn and cheap gas... Nebraska. Filled up on 87 at 30 cents cheaper than anywhere in CO but was treated to 20MPG pure highway. Having only had the car a couple months, I am EXTREMELY picky about it's performance and noises. I spent the better part of two nights tuning my throttle cable and resetting the ECU. My dad is the same way with his motorcycles and vehicles. After screwing with my head with suggestions of pump, vac, o2 sens, probs; he was nice enough to point out that ALL GAS with 10% ETHANOL (corn based) will net a MUCH lower mileage. At the next stop, Filled with 85, no Ethanol, and back to an appropriate range.
The moral...
If you are freaking out over MPG and not paying attention at the pump, perhaps it is YOU to blame, not your Subie;)
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If you DO decide to trust mechanics again, here's a good place to start. Also, if you're in need of a part that doesn't neccessarily need to be new, I don't think you'll beat their prices. Especially if you live in CO.
Picked up passenger side weather stripping in perfect condition for $35. Closest to that was NEW and $175. They threw in a new MAF sensor filter for free. -
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Basically, you have to turn the key in the ignition from "off" to "acc" ten times within five seconds (with all doors shut). Then open and close your driver's door and then click the keyfob lock button within a few seconds after that.
You have 15 Seconds, but it sounds like that's what needs to be done. Check the manual, I don't know if the procedure is different, but I can't imagine that I'd have 15 seconds, and others would only have 5.
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So, I was looking for a Chilton for my 99' Legacy SUS and found that the Subaru Chilton only goes to 96'. Will that work? I know many people dislike the Haynes but they at least go to 98'. What's the deal? TIA.
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If money is no object, you may consider the Michelins. (F-1 Racing endorsed. LOL). But if you want killer performance in all conditions at a SWEET price, I highly recommend the BF Goodrich Traction T/A's. Slapped a set on 7,000 miles ago and couldn't be happier. They stick in a couple of inches of standing water, haven't noticed treadwear, and anyone who lives in CO and knows what T-Rex looks like (grooved Pavement) knows it gets a little louder, but not on these. Moreover, I have gone through the Cuchara mountains and Wolf Creek pass 6 times on these. Again, those who know Wolf Creek knows how tight it gets and I felt completely comfortable maintaining 20-30MPH over the "recommended" speed. You wouldn't be unhappy.
My 2 cents.
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well, changed the maf again, went with the different style, went with a different air intake hose from tb to the filter, new t filter for the fix by subaru for smoking during long hard turns, still runs like crap....idles much much rougher with maf attached then not....checked all hoses again for leaks....
at this point i can either run w/o the maf attached and have a much better running car that doesnt get as good gas mileage and has the check engine light on because of the o2 sensor, or connect the maf back up, connect the green connector and have the cel go off and have a car that runs pissy, or, try and sell it and let someone else do the detective work...
thoughts anyone??
Though I realize that it is a longshot, the green connector under the dash isn't connected is it. It would be a huge coincidence that the my question yesterday would apply, but I also haven't tried connecting the green diagnostic connector and then disconnecting the MAF to see if the vehicle would run worth a ************.
Although doubtful, possible?
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the green connectors are for diagnostics .. dont connect them.. dont run your car with them connected. there is nothing wrong with your car.
Thanks. I should have posted that I received the same answer from the guys at NASIOC. Thanks for the reply though.
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needed new o2 sensor to pass emissions as car was running too rich...got the sensor, passed, ran great for a couple of months...then, like northwet said..had to slow down from 60 on highway---foot off accelerator, foot push clutch in, cel goes on, code 35 and 32...changed purge control solenoid and the code 35 went away...32 still there, light still on, even after changing out o2 sensor...pinging real bad...runs 100% better with maf unplugged...
I'm not seeing anything about cleaning or, god forbid, replacing the MAF. I had some goofy issues until I bought a spray can of the BG & K 402 "Brake Cleaner". Went with it since it clearly states O2 sensor safe. Basically, leaves no residue whatsoever.
I spent 10 minutes removing and spraying the MAF LIGHTLY, let dry for 5, reinstalled, nothing but smiles. $7 worth of contact cleaner beats the hell out of $200+ new or $75 used. Good luck.
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Well, in my never-ending quest for knowledge of my 99 Legacy SUS; I found something quite odd. I was looking for the Driver Door Power Window relay, (where is that sucker?) but instead, I found an unconnected wire below my dash. So... Yeah. Obviously I hooked that sucker up to see what happened, and the end result was a blinking CEL. WTF?!!! This is also accompanied by weird clicking noise with they key in and turned to acc. ( as far as I can go without cranking). So, I turned it off and disconnected the wire which obviously solved the problem. Today I was at a local Checker grabbin' a fuel filter, and I figured I'd have them throw a code reader on.
Without the wire connected, no codes came back.
With the wire connected I get a PO130 (O2 sensor).
Here are my questions. The wire I found is two conductor with a small green spade connector. (Initially I thought the wire went to the seatbelt sensor due to the identical connectors.) Does the wire more than likely go to the O2 sensor? If so, what's its flow? (i.e. O2 -> ECU -> OBD port)? Also, with that wire not connected, am I basically bypassing the O2 sensor? If so, why isn't it negatively affecting me? If not, what gremlin is causing the PO130?
Judging by the weird relay type of click when connected, I'm inclined to believe that the wire is shorted at some point. If not, please explain.
Thanks in advance,
Matt.
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i don't know any answers to your questions... but... it seems to me that the amount of torque coming from as diesel would torque your little unibody in half if you pegged it.
just a thought....That's the whole idea man. Better economy + gobs of torque =
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but its intersting you say this. I've had several mecahnics say that if an automatic starts slipping it is best to keep the old fluid in. They say that changing to fresh fluid would actually make the problem worse. My friend was told that by a Subaru dealership mechanic when dealing with slipping in a 99 Impreza. I don't understand why this would be.
Keith
I have heard the same thing. Luckily I don't have this problem with my Legacy, but I DID with my old Protege.
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Thanks for the expeditious replies guys
. Guess I got some work to do on Saturday:-\. Funny, I had a feeling that some of this might cause that. Glad I found this out before my next oil change (this weekend). Will have to run some Yamaha Wring-Free($7 BG 44K) through before then. If I burn a can on a quarter tank, would that sufficiently clean out the old oil that may have been combusted? TIA. May buy plugs as well. Want to get this thing running right before my next trip to New Mexico in a couple of weeks. Also, how much torque on the PCV Valve; Don't want to crack the manifold.
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OK. So, I cleaned off the ol' MAF sensor today and my cold idle is back to reasonable (800 instead of 1250) and the giddy up has increased substantially. However, when cleaning the MAF I noticed that the vacuum inlet had, at some point in time, spit out oil into the second resonator air intake. The hose looks like it connects to the PCV valve or somewhere on the intake manifold. Is this a bad sign? I have no idea how that would happen, but left scratching my head. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA.
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The 2.5L DOHC Phase I engine is known for running rich.
I don't think there is anything you can do to adjust, since it is all computer controlled these days. That is, short of getting into the programming.
You might want to try changing the O2 sensor. As they age, they will cause the mixture to go even richer still. I noticed a difference after changing mine. It was not thowing any codes, but the dealer did say that it was working a little "slow". (Fewer cycles per minute than is the norm.)
Commuter
Thanks for all the quick replies. I figured as much. Also, I just got the oil changed about a half an hour ago and noticed that they listed the engine as a 2.2. Being that I live 1/4 mile away I came home and am letting it sit for a bit to see if they got enough oil in.
It seems as though there seems to be alot of confusion about these SUS'. Is it an outback, legacy, 30th ann. etc... Anyhow... Any tips to CHEAPLY squeeze a few more lb's of torque out of this thing would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for the expeditious responses.
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Sometimes while I'm driving, I can smell fumes thru the vents if they are open. It seems to be from the engine, but it can also be from outside. I don't really have these problems with the AC or when the vents are closed. Can there be a leak somewhere?
Is it oil? If so, probably a leakey oil pump. VERY common. If been happening for awhile, you may need to replace the timing belt too. Should be under $400 to get both done. Shouldn't be much if any labor to do timing belt at same time because they have to remove it to do the pump. Good luck.
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I recently purchased a 99 Legacy SUS Limited and feel as though it is running a little rich. On my 78 k1500 I just adjusted the screw, that won't happen here I don't think. So; is there a way, without a programmer, to adjust the mixture? If not, is there anyone is south denver willing to take some cash for helping me tune this in?
TIA.
Federalizing a B4.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I've been finding B4's on the internet for relatively cheap for a 280HP Twin Turbo ($15,000-$5,000). http://english.auto.vl.ru/auctions/subaru/legacy_b4/ I've been considering trying to pick up a 99-01 and then federalizing, but am finding little information on how much it would cost. The other option, is to swap parts into a my SUS or a GT frame and transferring the body as well. Seems like alot of work, but if it would be cheaper, then... Has anybody already done this with success? I would NEVER live in CA so the emissions issue is of little importance. TIA.