Lawsonmh15

Oddly enough. I have noticed a 3.5 MPG increase. :banana: Yeah... Nothing bad to say at all. AndyJo I need an email.

Just did a flush using the Royal Purple ATF. No more abrupt shifting. Cost a little more, but worked sweet. In addition, I added the BG Tranny conditioner and now she shifts smooth as silk. Next up is filling up the diffs with the Redline Superlight Shockproof as Blitz reccomends. Royal Purple claims that their ATF keeps temps down at least 20 degrees F. I can't really verify it, but I am not complaining about the end result.

Thanks for the heads up.

YES!!!!!!! Your engine is NOT, I repeat, NOT ruined. Your mechanic may tell you that, but I (And MANY others) have had this happen and all that needs to be done is get a new crank pulley, and have a new woodruff key put on your crankshaft. about 3.5 hours of labor. I can't believe some of the replies. Gary!!! Locktite??? Seriously. I've had this happen. It will NEVER be balanced until the job is done right. I did band-aid fixes for about a week then wised up and had a new crankpulley and woodruff key put on. You do NOT NEED A NEW CRANK SHAFT!!! Just the woodruff key. If you continue to try driving it "rigged up" so the belts technically stay on, you will be giving some lucky SOB a HELL of a deal on your car. That's how my friend got his sisters' subie. His buddie drove around with the crank pulley issue for a couple of weeks until the car died on the highway. Engine = GONE. So he inherited the subie for the cost of a new engine and a tow... Wanna be my friend?

I use the vac line just before the coil pack. I would still like to know how the PCV Valve is the best choice for even distribution instead of the hose I have used. Here are pics my pics:

Sounds about right for me too. Oddly enough. I made sure not to punch it until I had driven for about 20 mins, and the first time I did... Smooth as it should be??? I now wonder if it could be the tranny temp control mod. Any thoughts on that? Andy, You have a PM.

So I guess this may answer my next question. Is there anyone who does NOT feel when the car shifts. I mean a slight lurch (no grinds or clunks, but just to let you know)? My buddy has an 88 olds 88 and I was amazed at how smooth his AT shifted... Until yesterday. Now his tranny won't upshift past 2nd. So I guess it's a relatively good sign that I can feel it shift. Comments please.

99 SUS LTD

No problem man. Any thoughts or logic I haven't explored is ALWAYS welcome. :banana:

Something tells me that might be a little thick for an auto.

4 new tires (few months) All at 8/32". HAD BEEN OVER-INFLATED BY MORON KID BY 10LBS AT LAST ROTATE/BALANCE. However, the problem has been around since BEFORE the kid who couldn't read inflated my tires. I have PLENTY of grounds. Look for my Grounding thread. Thanks for the suggestions though.

That'll do it. The old Platinum +4 (new plugs). Spend the extra $$$ on the Denso Iridium. Some autozone's stock the item, otherwise it is a special order.

hehehe. What plugs did you put in??? You MUST use the NGK's or Denso iridiums to avoid a 301/302 or 303/304 combo. If you're using NGK's, you've got a wire problem. If you are using NGK plugs, do a resistance check on your plug wires, when you find the culprit, you'll know. But replace em all anyway. If you don't find any wires that are WAY OFF, check the resistance on your coil pack.

mmmm. 420...................

Fuel/oil drier... / cureall.

No, I do not have any probs going into gear. However, as mentioned in SEVERAL of my other threads, I experience a Hard shift for the first few downshifts from D-3 when punching to pass. After the first couple times, It goes back to normal. The only recommendation I've gotten and NOT acted on yet is getting a tranny FLUSH instead of drain and fill. MY QUESTION GOES TO THOSE WHO HAVE EITHER EXPERIENCED THIS, SOMETHING SIMILAR, OR GOTTEN TORQUE BIND: How much weight were you carrying on a daily basis? Towing? Common hills? Ever find your tires inflated to 3 psi ABOVE the TIRES' max capacity? I drive... I drive ALOT. Because I work ALOT. I keep about ~250-300 lbs worth of hand and power tools in my car at ALL times (I miss my garage). I wonder if simply carrying this weight Full time could cause this with aggressive driving. Initiall, I would say no, but then I consider that about %90 of my + tool weight is on the driver's side. If I put the power/hand tools over to the Pass. side of the trunk would that make a difference. Sorry if this seems "dumb" to some, but this is the same vehicle that is SUPER picky about matching tire sizes and inflation amounts, so if a few pounds or a 1/2" would cause problems... TIA. Almost forgot: HA HA!!! For those who understand the significance; yes I agree, it is ironic that I would ask when I have this in my arsenal. Pm for linkage.

Hey, that station exists every couple miles in Colorado; it's called SAFEWAY. Yeah it's great, you save $.03/gallon and get >100+ fewer miles per tank. The first time I thought there was something wrong with my car, so I bought gas at Shell I normally buy my gas from and it went back to normal. Tried again, same results. So all those super thrifty Safeway card holders are doing the smart thing, saving themselves $.45 in order to cost themselves ~$11.20 CO prices. Now THOSE are reasoning skills. Last thing on this subject... For now. Unless you SAW these guys "cleaning" your fuel system, It's a wise bet that you that you paid $200 to have them run $20 worth of BG 44K through your system. Sorry man, I know people who have had SERIOUS issues with clogging (Erratic Idle, Surging), bought a can of 44K, ran the whole can on a half tank of gas and achieved night/day results. Some people it has taken a couple cans but... Not $200 worth. I'd ask them to show you that corn can they showed your parents. Is that... Isn't that a skittle???

Hate to do it... But Twenty years ago there were very FEW vehicles using fuel injection. I know that a friend of mine had a mid-eighties crap-maro with "cross-fire" injection, but from what I read, it was less efficient than a good carburetor. Perhaps you got more clogged venturi's, but not "injectors". Symantec's I know but... At any rate, Yes gas was dirtier, but, was it better. I get MUCH better mileage when I travel to sea-level states with octane ratings that START at 91. In CO we use ethanol so... It sucks. Corn is for my belly and septic system; not my car. Hopefully soon, gas will be for my lawn mower, and hydrogen will be for my car.

I agree. Those crazy japanese engineers don't know what they're doing. I mean; they even put weird rubber covers on the plug wires going onto the coil pack. What were they thinking. If it were me, the first thing I'd do is cut those pesky boots off, then wind some small gauge wire, lets say 22G for arguments sake, then I would wind it around all the posts of the coil pack connecting them, Push what's left of the plug wires onto the posts and fire it up. Also, I never liked the idea of connecting black to black and red to red. F it. The next thing I'd do is switch the leads coming from the ignition and ground at the battery. DC voltage is for pansies. If you BELIEVE it's AC then GD it!!! It's AC. Oh, I'd wind some 14G between the two terminals at the battery too.

I gotta believe it's either the Alt, or a short. Check for any loose connections. You may also want to test your coil pack and ignition. Let me know if you need the procedure for testing your coil pack.

What are you doing to keep water and debris out of the intake? Or did you not mod the intake to meet the scoop? If not... What was the point in removing the bottom of the scoop? Allow water to drip on FPR's and Coil pack???

Idle Air Control Valve.

On it.

What type of lag are you referring to. I keep my foot on the break until I feel it go into gear. Do you mean it just takes longer to engage, or do you feel it grab and jerk or what? Thanks for the help.

I've tried all that I can think of and no matter how it's babied, it always does it at least ONCE. I checked the level today and saw fluid out to full hot. I remember reading something about bubbles, I had a few tiny bubbles in the marking holes. Don't know if this means it is low, thin, normal or otherwise. The weird thing was that after pulling the dipstick and wiping clean, black streaks were left on the paper towel. Wipe it clean (no streaks) re-insert, pull, black streaks on what looks like otherwise clean fluid.